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Topics - RogB

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Sidecars / Sidecar attachment
« on: 30 December, 2019, 07:33:05 »
Hi, can anyone recommend attachment measurements for fitting my Watsonian GP Manx to my swing arm Golden Flash?

I've recently attached it and after several attempts I eventually settled on these measurements:
Axle lead 10" (254mm) which is 18% of bike's 57" (1450mm) wheelbase.
Tow-in with rider seated 3/4" (19mm).
Lean out with rider seated 1/2" (12.5mm).
Track is 47" (1194mm).

Damper is screwed down a turn from solo adjustment.

Travelling at about 30 mph my outfit tracks straight enough with a slight pull towards sidecar on acceleration and a slight pull the other way on braking.  However the steering seems heavy on left turns but better on right ones (ie at junctions).

Over the winter I'm going to fit my new 18T engine sprocket with a new Regina primary chain and change the solo fork springs for sidecar ones.  I'll be removing the sidecar to do this and I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations for when I refit it.


Twins / Craven Panniers
« on: 01 July, 2019, 21:43:54 »
I've just emailed Craven about a set of panniers for my 1960 Golden Flash. I've been looking at either Craven Dolomites or Rodarks. From what I can make out it seems that the Dolomites, or any of the other case shaped panniers need a Craven W-rack and also the pannier fitting kits, which, to me, seems to be all brackets and straps, but there's no mention as to how the Rodarks are fitted. Does anyone Know?

MY G/Flash has rear crash bars fitted and I already have a stainless carrier rack fitted, which I'm more than happy with, it being strong and minimalist and I much prefer it over the Craven rack (see photo).

Any advice, comments or experience in fitting these panniers would be most welcome.

Twins / Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 23 August, 2017, 17:01:10 »
My BSA GF has a 6-spring clutch, although working well, it doesn't have the adjustment I'd really like (and no I don't want to change it for a 4-spring version or a modification).  Laying in bed at 3 am this morning and thinking about it (like you do) I was trying to get my head around what, if anything, to do about it now. There are two things I suspect - but I won't bore you with that. I intend to strip it, fit a different cable and lever set up and renew the push rod when I lay the bike up after the summer but as I ride regularly I don't want to lay it up now unless I really have to - even for just a  day or so.

As an aside, I have been preparing for it and ordered a different cable, cable adjusters and a new push rod in preparation. The push rod was delivered from a retailer (with an f in their name) but it was undersized. They told me they couldn't replace it as all the push rods they had in stock were undersized (and they still advertise them) so I had to send the useless push rod back to them so they could have more of them (at my expense for postage I may add). That was a week ago and still no refund!!!

Anyway, I started to produce a very simplified diagram to show the relationship between the clutch adjusting components so I could study it without it just being a picture in my head and I thought it may be of use to some others to see a simplified diagram of what does what and how and so I added a bit of extra info for that reason.

Twins / Clutch cable ferrule and gearbox abutment puzzle
« on: 08 August, 2017, 13:58:52 »
Jan 1960 Golden Flash and as far as I know pretty well original, apart from service items such as cables, etc.

It has the 6 spring clutch. However, on fitting a new clutch cable (pt no 42-8775), which is apparently the correct one for 1959 - 1962 I had to file the smaller end of the stepped ferrule down considerably to fit in the gearbox abutment hole. See the photos.  The hole in the gearbox abutment is the same diameter right through and smaller than the ferrule on the cable - probably about the diameter of the actual cable end.

The previous owner had the same problem but his solution was to feed the nipple and the cable inner through the centre of a washer so that the ferrule was, at least, held a little more stable against the abutment (as the original smaller part of the stepped ferrule wouldn't go into the abutment hole.

All the clutch cables to fit a 1960 A10 I've seen advertised are the same as the cable I bought. Is it possible that the gearbox is from an earlier or later model, which had a smaller hole in the gearbox abutment?

OK, I've sorted it but I'm puzzled as to why I had to file the fitting on the end of the cable down to fit.

Any ideas?

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