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Topics - Phil C

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1
Singles / Primary chaincase oil level
« on: 19 May, 2018, 08:07:45 »
Seems a bit odd: the primary chaincase on my 1965 B40F is supposed to have 1/4 pint of oil. I thought I'd change it, so I drained out the old oil, and this morning went to renew it. With the bike on its centre stand, and the level screw removed, I took out the big screw where you would do clutch adjustment, and through that hole poured in just over 1/4 pint, but nothing appeared at the level hole. Put in some more (maybe, say, another sixteenth of a pint) - still nothing at the hole.  Should I keep going until it appears, or stop now? Maybe the bike's not quite level?   Phil.

2
Singles / Primary chaincase oil
« on: 16 May, 2018, 13:31:15 »
Could someone advise me what oil I should use in the primary chaincase on my 1965 B40F please?   Thanks.   Phil.

3
The Star and Garter / Dazzle
« on: 13 May, 2018, 19:20:46 »
Does anyone have any suggestions for best ways to avoid dazzle from the sun?  A visor perhaps?  My helmet is a Shark S700 and has an integral sunshield but that doesn't help me much - I think I need some kind of shade, the same principle as in a a car.   Phil.

4
The Star and Garter / Floor covering
« on: 10 May, 2018, 18:52:21 »
Any ideas for a cheap, suitable material for covering my bike shed's concrete floor (4m x 2m)? The concrete constantly gives off dust (presumably the wrong mix by the person who laid it), so I don't want anything which needs adhesive, as it won't stick to the dusty surface. Preferably something that I can just lay on the floor and which won't curl up at the edges, is suitably non-slip, etc.   Thanks in advance. Phil.

5
Singles / Removing rubber oil pipe
« on: 04 May, 2018, 16:22:13 »
Hello everyone, On my 1965 B40F, I'm doing away with the gas tap which was fitted just below the oil tank by a previous owner (he fitted it in order to cure a wet-sumping problem.) I've removed the tap and now need to remove the rubber tube, which is too short to use with the standard union nut etc which I'll be fitting.  My problem is: I'm having trouble removing the rubber tube from the metal pipe underneath the engine. I've unscrewed the clip until it's very loose but can't get the rubber pipe to budge, and am afraid of pulling too hard on the rubber in case I put too much strain on the metal pipe. I've tried pushing the end of the rubber with a screwdriver blade, but it doesn't want to move. I thought about trying to cut it off somehow, but it's in a very confined space, and also I wouldn't want to damage the metal pipe. I was just wondering if anybody knew of a trick of the trade? Phil.

6
Singles / Oil filter
« on: 02 May, 2018, 11:29:35 »
Following on from our recent discussion about my oil system (1965 B40F), here is a photo of the gas tap which threads into the bottom of the tank (to solve the incontinence issue.) Also shown is the filter which sits on top of it. But I guess it's no good for it to be just sitting loose on the end of the tap when I screw the tap up into the tank. It looks like it might have been held in place with some kind of glue, but obviously it's come loose when I unscrewed the tap from the tank, so I guess that's not an ideal way to secure it? I think I'd like to continue with the gas tap method for now, rather than try to access the non-return valve, (though of course the external NRV suggested in the previous discussion might be worth trying). Any advice please on how I can continue with the gas tap method but also have a secure filter arrangement?    Phil.

7
Singles / Oil pipe tap
« on: 30 April, 2018, 16:37:41 »
I think I saw an article recently in one of the classic bike magazines about fitting an external tap/valve in the oil feed pipe, in order to deal with incontinence. Does anybody know which mag and which date? I have got a tap on my bike (1965 B40F) but am wondering about re-doing it at some stage.  Phil.

8
Singles / Oil return
« on: 30 April, 2018, 15:09:53 »
Please pardon my lack of knowledge again. I asked this on a previous message, but in case it got lost amongst other issues, here is my question again.  I have drained my engine oil and am about to  refill. When I start the engine, I assume that by shining a torch into the oil tank, I should see the returning oil squirting out of the return pipe into the tank?  How long after starting the engine should it take for the returning oil to arrive at the tank?  Thanks in advance.   Phil.

9
Singles / Oil return tube
« on: 28 April, 2018, 18:09:48 »
On my 1965 B40F, when I remove the sump filter I see two tubes. The larger diameter one, about 5/16" (8mm) o/d, I assume is the scavenge (return) tube? I prodded a wire in there, hoping to feel a ball bearing, but didn't feel anything, and can't see inside it because of oil. When I push the wire in, it goes up inside the tube about an 1 and 1/2" and then is stopped by something. A bend in the tube, perhaps? Just checking that is normal.

Also, what is the smaller dia tube I can see nearby?  Is it a pressure relief tube? Again, I don't feel a ball in there.

Thanks in advance.  Phil.

10
Singles / Oil filter
« on: 23 April, 2018, 15:59:52 »
Hello everyone, I thought I'd do an oil change on my 1965 B40F. In between the oil tank and the engine is a modification put in place by the previous owner - basically a valve (an old gas valve I believe) to cure the problem of oil running back down into the crankcase, when the engine isn't running, because the standard non-return valve is not working properly. So when you go to start the bike, as well as turning on the petrol, you must remember to turn on the oil. Anyway, when I took this valve fitting off the tank, rather than find a standard filter, I came across a mesh disc (see photo). In the mesh disc appear to be a few bits of metal. Any thoughts please? Thanks in advance.   Phil.

11
Singles / Socket set?
« on: 07 April, 2018, 17:17:21 »
Coming to put my petrol tank back on my B40F, I realise I need a socket set (BSF/Whit) with extension piece, in order to reach the nut down inside the tank centre hole. Can't find one on ebay. I've just put a message on the Wanted board, but wonder if any of you might have an old set surplus to requirements?  I guess not, but worth a shot!  Otherwise I might have to wait and look at the Shepton Mallet autojumble later this month. Phil.

PS Hope I don't get into trouble for posting this on the Singles page, but thought as I'd had a fair bit of communication with some of you I might give it a go.

12
Singles / Fuse holders
« on: 01 April, 2018, 23:04:08 »
I'm looking to fit a fuse holder to each of two wires which lead from my battery, under the side cover of my 1965 B40F. I was thinking of in-line holders for glass fuses, but that would mean splitting each of the two wires to put the fuse holder in, and having a connection a couple of inches or so from each side of the holder (I was thinking of bullet and snap connectors)  so each wire would have a fuse holder and two snap connectors. A total of two fuse holders and four snap connectors in an already fairly congested area near the battery would be less than ideal. I wondered if anyone had any suggestions please, based on experience, of best ways to do this. Would I be better off with, say, Scotchlok connectors? From what I read, they are compact, and, as a bonus, easy to install. Thanks in advance.   Phil.

13
Singles / Bullets and snap connectors
« on: 01 April, 2018, 20:55:39 »
I bought some recently but am finding the bullets (3/16") will not go in the snap connectors. I can just about force the bullet in by pushing on its end, but when a wire is connected to the bullet, and so the push is not directly on its end, I can't get the bullet in.  I've tried chamfering the female a bit, but still can't connect the two. I know you wouldn't want them falling out, but if you cant get them in...   Anyone had a similar problem, or is there a trick I'm missing?    Phil.

14
Singles / Petrol tanks fixings
« on: 30 March, 2018, 13:28:44 »
I've bought, from Draganfly, some centre bolt fixings (chamfered rubber, two spacer tubes, washers, etc) for my 1965 B40F. Rupert Ratio (vol 2, p. 204) tells me:

"...the critical part is the spacer tube inside the rubber, which must be of the correct length to permit the rubber to be compressed by the right amount as the centre nut is tightened.This tube is approximately 1/4" shorter than the top surface of the rubber."

I've just measured my tube and my rubber: the tube is just over 3/8" shorter than the rubber. Is that too big a difference? I guess I could just try it and see, but thought I'd ask your opinion(s), as I reckon some of you will know.

Thanks in advance.

Phil.

15
Singles / Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 27 March, 2018, 20:42:15 »
I'm trying to get my head round the wiring diagram for my 1965 B40F.  he power generated by the alternator, I believe, goes to the rectifier, where it is converted to from AC to DC, and then to the battery. Could some patient person please explain to me, a clueless novice:

1. What route does it take?

2. When the engine is running and lights on, does all the generated power go to the battery, which then powers the lights, or does some of it go directly from the alternator to the lights and some to top up the battery? Again, which routes?

I have the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual which I can refer to to try to understand any explanations (and I assume where it says ignition coil it means ignition switch?)

Thanks very much.  Phil (novice)

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