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Topics - bikerbob

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The Star and Garter / Mileage checks
« on: 23 April, 2021, 08:23:25 »
Has anyone ever checked the accuracy of the mileage readings on speedos. The reason I ask is I have a 1962 A65 and a 1956 A7, couple of days ago took the A65 for a run on local country roads did 29 miles the next day did exactly the same run on the A7 but it indicated that I had done 33 miles. I have had both bikes for quite a few years and have never before checked this out, am not really bothered as such but was surprised to find such a difference both speedos are the original items.

The Star and Garter / Expensive Fish and Chips
« on: 05 May, 2020, 09:43:06 »
Just read that 2 motorcyclists have been fined for breaching lockdown rules they rode from Rochdale to Whitby round trip of 200 miles for fish and chips, stopped by the police in Whitby and sent home.

The Star and Garter / LOG BOOK HISTORY
« on: 27 January, 2020, 09:04:23 »
You may find this website interesting, At the bottom of the history link there is a further link in red  INF 57 which gives further info and below there are further links where you can purchase replacement buff log books and tax discsetc.

The Star and Garter / Members area
« on: 09 December, 2019, 14:55:38 »
Is anyone else having problems logging into the members area, I put in the details exactly as stated on my membership card bearing in mind that it is case sensitive but it comes up that either my user name or password are not correct.

The Star and Garter / Clarification on MOT exemption
« on: 17 February, 2019, 16:32:26 »
I have an A65 1963 that has been classed as a Historic Vehicle since being restored in 2011. The tax is due on May1st but the MOT runs out on May16th in previous years I have been able to tax it from May 1st because it has a current MOT and then get a new MOT to run from May 16th onwards. So this year I will be able to do the same but under the new rules it will not need a new MOT from the 16th. Will I have to fill in form V112 to declare MOT exemption and if so do I just send it off to the DVLA as the info that I have read seems to indicate that you have to do this when taxing the bike at a Post office, I have always done this online. Thanks

Twins / Piston Ring Information
« on: 13 December, 2018, 14:59:28 »
I have now bought some different rings from C&D Auotos they say they are made by GPM. I was expecting to get 2 identical compression rings and an oil ring, but on opening the packet the first thing I noticed was there was nothing to indicate which way the rings were to be fitted so assumed wrongly that they could go either way. On further inspection I found that the top ring is a normal compression ring the second compression ring is a stepped ring and the oil ring has a bevel on one edge the step is quite easy to see but the bevel is very small and could easily be missed. Doing a further bit of checking I found a chart that lists quite a few different types of piston rings according to that chart I have a SQ square cast iron ring a DS Step scraper ring and a GBSlotted oil ring,grooved w/bevel cast iron. I have included a copy of the chart I did not realise how many different types of there are.
I also on researching GPM rings found this on  the Draganfly website I have copied and pasted the paragraph but am struggling to understand it. I thought that if you measured the piston ring gap in an unworn part of the bore and the in the most worn part of the bore then  took the difference that would tell you how much wear there is in the bore what has pi got to do with it.
                                                                             (Piston ring gaps are frequently quoted as a method of ascertaining bore or ring wear. When using this method, the ring gap should be measured near the top of the bore and compared with the gap obtained in the unworn section of the cylinder at the bottom. Divide the difference by Pi (3.142) to obtain the amount of wear on the cylinder. The figures that are given for ring gaps are the minimum in order to prevent the rings closing up when they expand, a larger gap, within reasonable limits, is not detrimental. Some of the re-manufactured rings do have a larger gap than would normally be expected. The piston clearances are listed below. All pistons are complete with rings, gudgeon pins and circlips. 1.0 mm is equivalent to .040".)
I did not use the piston ring method but measured the actual bores I have .003" maximum wear at the top of the bore.

Twins / Piston ring advice
« on: 05 December, 2018, 17:48:16 »
In a previous post I asked for advice about a rebore, have now accurately measured everything and the standard bore has a maximum of .003" wear at the top of the bore so manual says rebore needed if wear in exccess of .005"also checked piston clearance in the bores top middle and in unworn part of the bore at bottom.   .008" clearance at top .007" in the middle and .005" clearance in the bottom unworn part of the bore. I have bought a new set of standard piston rings because the old ones have to much clearance in the grooves manual says .001-.003 " mine has .006" clearance. I bought what I thought were Hepworth rings but they are in an imatation Hepworth box, the clearance in the grooves is spot on but when I try the rings in the bore I am getting a ring gap of 018 " at the top  .017 in the middle and in the unworn part of the bore .015"  The manual says -008" to .013" gap. Have read elsewhere that these new type Hepworth rings are not to be trusted they seemingly do not run in very well in fact if you by the new type Hepworth pistons you are advised that the pistons are OK but you should change to better quality rings. Would like your  thoughts on this please.

Twins / Rebore Advice Please
« on: 24 November, 2018, 18:06:39 »
Hi there, I have a 1963 model A65 which I believe needs a rebore, it still has the original BSA pistons in from new I did fit +20 thou oversize rings in a few years ago because at that time I could not afford a rebore new standard rings had a gap of about 20 thou. I have got the barrel off and pistons and measured both the pistons and the bores. The pistons measure 74.33mm this size was taken just above the gudgeon pin, the bores measure 75mm this leaves a difference of .67mm which equates to about 26 thou. The pistons were measured using a micrometer, the bores were measured using a spring loaded bore measuring tool then locked removed and then measured with a vernier gauge. Looking at the workshop manual it gives the standard bore size as 73.983mm to 75.0062mm, but it does not give the actual size of the pistons it just gives clearance sizes for the top and bottomof the skirt. Given the existing differences between the original pistons and the present bore size do I go to + 20 thou pistons or +40 thou pistons. Thankyou.

Twins / Advice needed on Ball and spring in crankcase 1956 A7
« on: 30 June, 2018, 16:26:42 »
I have had to strip the engine in order to replace timing side bush whilst I had it stripped I decided to renew the ball and spring next to the bush. I have bought a new ball and spring but the new spring is not the same as the old one as can be seen in the photo attached it is made of thicker wire and is a lot stronger than the original. My question is should I use the new spring and ball or should I keep the old spring and just use the new ball. The new spring is on the right. The  supplier of these parts is MCA for obvious reasons I need to get this right as I don't want to strip the engine down again and could the new spring cause any problems. Thankyou.

Which BSA do you ride? / My Present bikes
« on: 04 February, 2018, 14:19:10 »
Both bikes are used during the better weather the A65 was restored from a basket case.

Twins / Exhaust pipes
« on: 12 July, 2017, 13:09:30 »
Is there an optimum distance for how far the exhaust pipes go into the silencers on a 1956 swinging arm A7 mine go in approx 4 inches which seems quite a bit or does it not make any difference to performance.

Twins / Small end problem
« on: 05 July, 2017, 11:27:15 »
I have a1956 swinging arm A7 for a few weeks now I have had noise coming from the engine at certain revs about 25 mph in second gear 35 in third gear and 45 in fourth gear. So decided to take head and barrels off, on first inspection could find nothing wrong but when I removed the pistons one of the small end bushes has turned in the con rod blocking off most of the lubrication hole. This has resulted in the internal diameter of the bush being 5-6 thou bigger than the gudgeon pin. I have ordered a new bush but suspect that it will not be a tight enough fit in the con rod the original worn bush still had to be removed using a home made extracter but it came out too easily. How do I make it a bit tighter would bearing loctite be the answer or I could do what we used to do years ago when I worked in enginering and we had this problem we would tin the outside of the bearing then press it in this was the solution before loctite. Or does anyone have another remedy. Thanks.

Twins / A65 Early clutch changes
« on: 27 February, 2017, 09:33:05 »
I have an early A65 1963 and the clutch has quite a bit of side play and I notice that a few years later they fitted the clutch shims. I was wondering if they were introduced to take up the side play, looking at both parts lists it would seem that to update my clutch I would have to buy part numbers  68-3253  68-3252  and 68-3245 is there any thing else I would need to consider before going any further. Is what I am considering possible as also the clutch is quite noisy and maybe think the side play is responsible I did fit new rollers a couple of years ago which did not cure the noise.

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