Part Diagram here:
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/partsbooks/20-10193C.pdf

Take a look here:
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/

Hi,
My 1968 B44 has the 2 frame rubbers at the headstock and 2 horseshoe rubbers, one at the seat end and the other towards the headstock.

I looked at those automatic non return valves and decided against it.
How do you know if they're open or closed?
I would rather rely on my feeble brain to remember to open the valve. You can always put a tag on the handlebar as a reminder, similar to what they do with disc locks.
At least with my chosen method I can't start the engine if the valve is shut.

Prepared my bike for winter storage, fuel drained and battery wired up to optimate charger. Didn't bargain for the oil tank draining down into the sump and then the garage floor.
Made the decision to fix it for good and fitted a valve in the feed line from these guys: https://www.themagnetoguys.co.uk/oil-tap-with-cut-out-switch
Fitted the valve and wired the switch into the ignition circuit and all's well.
Can't accidentally fire the bike up with the valve shut.

Just wondered if anyone else has had problems with the valve lifting mechanism.
I have owned my B44 for about a year now and I thought it should be easier to ease the piston over T.D.C than it was.
I removed the rocker box inspection cover and couldn't see any sign of the rocker arm moving when I operated the lever.
Off came the petrol tank for a proper look. The first thing I noticed was the return spring was all scrunched up, so I dismantled the adjuster and cable. The spring wasn't slipping over the adjuster and was getting crushed up, I fixed this problem and then checked the actuating arm position as per RR's instructions and all was as it should be, when the arm was pointing straight up it was kissing the rocker arm.
Great!
I reassembled it all and set about adjusting the cable. I adjusted and adjusted until I ran out of adjustment and I still wasn't getting the rocker arm to move.
So I thought, has the cable stretched or is the actuating cam worn?
I wasn't removing the rocker box to find out, so I would have to fix things another way.
Then I noticed another potential problem, looking from the timing side, the arm couldn't travel from 12.00 o'clock to 11.00 o'clock because it fouled the head steady bolt, even though the head of this bolt has a slimmed down head.
So, I decided to reposition the actuating arm, I removed it from its splines and set it at about 3 minutes past 12 looking from the timing side.
After everything was reassembled, it adjusted up just fine and now it's like turning over a sewing machine compared to the previous compressor.
Whether parts have worn or stretched over the years I cannot say but all's fine now.

Hi,
My friend owns 2 WD B40's and rides his less tidy one regularly.
He doesn't have any problems but he only potters about on country lanes on it.
He did once ride it from North Notts to Somerset with only minor issues.
His friends have nicknamed it the green slug, it seems happiest around 40mph but it will do short bursts up to 50 ish.
As far as I know everything is as it came from the army, gearbox and all.

I have a similar problem with my B44, but the oil is escaping from one of the screws holding the alternator cover in place. I only realised this after fitting a gasket (there wasn't one fitted).
I might be tempted to trim the bottom edge of the gasket, it might form a mini reservoir holding a small amount of oil behind it just waiting to find a way to freedom.

Hi,
I assume you've already looked here: http://www.boyerbransden.com/instructions.html

At last!
I have almost completed the job of replacing all of the metric nuts and bolts on my B44 with British Cycle thread fasteners.
I am glad that I have tackled the job as I have come across a number of dodgy bits.
Whoever put the bike back together was a big fan of nyloc nuts. Which is fine so long as the bolts are long enough to engage with the nylon ring. Unfortunately a lot were not and so would more likely than not have shaken loose and dropped off at some point.
I purchased most of the fasteners from Nooky's Nuts and I am extremely pleased with the quality and service I have received.

Thanks to both of you for the information given.
That's a great help.
I'm not a perfectionist, but a lot of the fasteners on my bike have been replaced with metric and it's a right  pain figuring out if I need a metric or imperial spanner when removing bits. So I plan to replace all the metric fasteners with the correct 26 tpi items.
Andy

Hi,
I want to replace the front mudguard bolts on my B44, these are the 1/4" cei bolts that attach the mudguard to the stays.
I need to know if they are normal zinc plated bolts or whether they are chrome plated with a slightly radiused head.
Any help would be gratefully received.
Andy

Hi,
I don't know if this is any help but there is a section covering the maintenance of lucas magnetos in section L5 on the following link
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/#MiscTech
Regards
Andy

Take a look here
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/
You might find some info.

My B44 had double ear crimp rings holding the oil pipes on the various stubs.
They look smart but they are an absolute nightmare to remove if you need to disconnect the oil pipes.
I had to resort to a Dremel to cut through the ears, which is fine if they are easily accessible, but they aren't.
Personally, I would stick with hose clamps that can be undone easily.