Quote from: Greenfield on 26 April, 2025, 12:13:38The first question is, do you have a lifting handle? If not, you'll have difficulty.

Yup.
You need a stand that is straight and in good condition with a lifting handle mounted in the correct place.
You have to lift with the right hand as you rock it back in one smooth movement.
I do wonder if some bikes have stands for 21 inch and 19 inch tyres and people fit either smaller wheels (eg 18 inch or lower profile tyres) which makes it more of a lift.
There is always a side stand option😎

I fit those washers to the alloy A/B series chaincase drain and level screws as per the manual - not convinced they make much of a difference tho'.

Quote from: Dan_B33 on 25 April, 2025, 11:13:13Hello,
Some news from here:

- piston/cylinder/rings set ready clearance to the spec

- electric installation almost done

 Shall be on the road next week

Dan

That cover is the end of the gearbox only - no communication with engine on a plunger B31.
The oil will be gearbox oil so you will need to have the bike on level ground, use a small funnel aimed through the knurled circular that you have removed from the end cover.

Remove the level plug (note - NOT the drain plug - see handbook) and top up with whatever gearbox oil you are using (some people swear by a straight engine oil SAE 40 in Summer - I guess, personally I use EP90

Once oil comes out of the level plug you can stop and then put level plug and filler cap back.
I would not be tempted to over-fill as it will try to exit via the kickstart and gear lever shafts, or, if unlucky the oil seal behind the gearbox sprocket!!

The mounting on my 57 Competition is similar (GS yokes so no steering lock) but very similar.  I have a 'D' shaped speedo but it fits to same bracket as yours and the cable exit is in the same place (the bracket has a notch).

I've use the rubber mounts as on my DBD type mongrel (twin clocks).  The fitting bolts are longer and you have rubber bushes above and below the bracket that lift the speedo (and protect it from the shakes) and may give you enough clearance for your switch.  Both my light switches have a smaller (no 'air' between the rotating rib and the switchplate and shorter rotor too) - is your switch and original?

I've got two new spare pushrods but they 285 and 291mm

So one the same and one a little longer than you have now.

You can have one for the cost of postage in the UK.

Happy Easter to you.
I bought a "Gold Star' rep centrestand from Fairdeals having missed a couple of genuine ones (same as s/a B31 and B33 for mid 50s).
The construction and material seem ok (it was for a 57 Competition frame) but the holes were odd size and in between the size of just the through bolt (very sloppy) and the sleeve that should fit between the stand tube and the bolt.
I had it bored to size and spent a couple of hours dressing the stops with files (how I know it is decent metal!) to ensure it fitted to clear the chain and did not sag below horizontal to ensure 'off road' ground clearance.

Quote from: Dan_B33 on 18 April, 2025, 10:00:08Happy Easter to All!

While waiting for barrel and piston I'm re-wiring my electric installation.

I will stay with positive earth since I bough DVR2 regulator for that setup. For now will connect for 12V. I heard that shall work with original dynamo.

All wires done in head lamp and deep switch, horn button.

Now move to dynamo regulator and back light.

Shall be ready before other parts arrive.

I have ordered as well deeper inner clutch
 basket . Currently I have just 4 plates. This will host 5 as it should be.

Some other small bits as well will arrive soon from UK (Ester time was hard to get my parcel send -no room)

High spirit to have it all put back together and have it working properly this time.

Take Care

Dan

Who have you bought the clutch basket from?
If it is Draganfly I would get a friend to add a couple of extra welds between the supporting ring and the fingers.
When I removed mine to fit the NEB clutch the ring was loose - the spot welds had failed.  I've still got it and if I had to I could still use it, but drill and puddle weld each tongue to the band vs spot welds.
My B31 came with the shallower clutch and it seemed to work well within the power contraints.  Asking it to cope with a ZB34GS engine was tricky and a DBD34 600 was right out!
The deeper 5 plate clutch on the ZB is quite sweet and seems to be working well (so far!)

Quote from: chrisf-1 on 13 April, 2025, 01:36:47I did not fit the wheel bearing Hagon's did I took both the complete wheels and drums over to them they did say the new drum was tight accepting the bearing but assured me all was OK !!! apparently not any suggestions on my next move like how I am a proper Goldie virgin many thanks for your time Chris

That is interesting as on my recent project the new bearings were a tight fit in the original hub too.
I've come across this before with the brake shoes binding - turned out to be a twisted brake plate.
Have you tried putting the wheel in without the brake plate assembly?
Does it spin then (I appreciate that the thickness of the plate has to be allowed for)?
But I agree with the above, check the bearings are fully seated and that the spacers are in the correct sequence.

Quote from: hoogerbooger on 05 April, 2025, 21:30:05Ta for comments. Tuesday before I can look at it. Will report back.

 

Reports?

Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 11 April, 2025, 11:08:56Hi,

Is the thread the same size as A10?  SRM do a cush drive nut with a hex for using a socket.

Dave.

You would need to check how much clearance you have between nut and chaincase.
I fitted one of those on a DBD and for some reason the nut 'just' caught on the ally case scoring a groove in the case. Is the C10 a tin case?

There are solid vs slipper types of skirt requiring different tolerances.

It will be interesting to know which type you have in your iron barrel.

I would be inclined to accept a touch of piston slap when cold vs nipping up.

Here are two of mine:


So brakeplate-swingingarm-plate-nut
The larger hole goes over the brake plate spindle shaft after the oil-hole cover-spring-brake arm

Yes, needle can get stuck, sounds like yours is sticking (or if it is a plastic float can have leaked).

I would suggest a Viton tipped (lightweight) alloy needle valve and a stay up float when you put it back together.

I am led to believe these are both E5 and E10 compatible and have these in my DBD and BB bikes (1036 and 930 concentrics respectively).  These newer floats are properly adjustable for float height - which is essential to have spot on for the DBD.

Here is mine:

Here is one from another memeber here: