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Messages - rhyatt

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Twins / Re: Electronic Ignition
« on: 07 April, 2024, 20:48:43 »
I'm not sure, but if you have a 12v single output coil in your spares box then try that.
If that sparks then you know the box is switching fine

Twins / Re: Electronic Ignition
« on: 06 April, 2024, 16:43:10 »
Some double output coils need both plugs earthed out to function.
Is your bike the same polarity earth as the unit demands ie pos etc or neg etc.
But you've subd the coils.

Remember, the black box only does what the points used to do ie earth the primary side of the coil, thereby charging it up and then, when the trigger pulse comes  breaking that earth path the same as the points opening.
This breaking collapses the primary and induces the ht in the secondary.

I just looked at the Wassell site - for a twin cylinder bike , shouldn't you have used 2 x 6v ignition coils wired in series as shown on that diagram ??

any HT coil , car or bike , 6 or 12v has the voltage enetring the coil via the primary +ve and going to earth via the -ve(thus charging the primary)

when the points open(or box switches) the collapsing magnetism induces the HT voltage in the secondary windings which spark via the plug lead to earth(the same earth as the points switch on and off thereby completing the HT path

some twin output coils are wired differently internally

Twins / Re: Electronic Ignition
« on: 05 April, 2024, 20:58:03 »
Across the 2 wires coming from the trigger try this.
You have proved the ohms of the trigger coils , good.

Put your meter onto AC volts and clip across these 2 wires,
Try to use a low scale if you can
Kick over and see if you get an AC pulse being generated, only small maybe 0.5v AC max.
If the trigger is sending this pulse out, then it's not the trigger unit.

Twins / Re: Warm Starts
« on: 23 March, 2024, 08:13:49 »
Are we talking of "warm" ie not fully warmed up from cold?
Or a hot start where you've been riding - stopped for some reason and then want to restart and continue?

The first may need careful use of tickling or choke as the bike still isn't fully warm

But the 2nd usually requires a larger throttle opening to clear the "cloud" of vaporised fuel gathering in the carb/Inlet tract due to the heat of the engine causing the float chamber to vaporise whist the bike is sitting and hot

Of course there could be hot electrics as well

Singles / Re: B44 +0.20 piston rings required
« on: 22 March, 2024, 15:32:52 »
Have you tried cox and turner near yeovil

Singles / Wassell led headlamp bulb
« on: 16 March, 2024, 07:20:25 »
Hi all,
Has anyone tried one of these bulbs ?
I bought one to fit to my C15 with a 12v conversion.
Even though converted, there was not much charging left with everything turned on.
It seems that even though these bulbs are rated between 6v and 24v , they don't like the low end of that range.
I had a long and productive chat with a technical guy and it seems that the internal circuitry needs a decent voltage to keep it running.
When I checked my voltage at the back of the bulb, I had mid 9s low 10s.
I'd been fiddling with the bike so expected it to be down below 12v , but the standard bpf bulb seemed bright enough, .
When running the back of bulb voltage was high 13s as you'd expect and this new led bulb worked fine.

Just in case anyone has the same issue.
Earth's and connections etc were all fine.

Twins / Re: wrongly described items
« on: 14 March, 2024, 14:49:57 »
No splines ??

Singles / Re: SS80 12v using a WW10124W reg rec
« on: 10 March, 2024, 10:03:11 »
Magic, thank you

Singles / SS80 12v using a WW10124W reg rec
« on: 10 March, 2024, 07:27:58 »
I have an SS80 that is have begun the 12v conversion by joining the (very dilapidated ) 3 wires into 2 at the stator.
It is now 2 wires and 12v
I have obtained by chance a Ww10124W reg rec which is a 3 phase unit , having 3 yellows .
The instructions say that it CAN be used on a 2 wire stator but don't actually show how to connect the 3 yellows onto 2 wires.
Is it a matter of leaving 1 yellow disconnected or double line it up with its yellow partner?
Many thanks in advance

Singles / Re: Pre-Monoblock Carburetor
« on: 05 March, 2024, 09:48:01 »
have you tried ringing BURLEN in Salisbury ??
very helpful carb people

Singles / Re: poor starting B40
« on: 02 March, 2024, 08:49:00 »
To run, you need a spark , fuel and compression.

Do you have a battery in your circuitry?  If not perhaps your boyer box is the type that doesn't need a battery, in which case ensure the lights are turned off.
Is the spark a good crisp blue crack?

Fuel , you've cleaned the carb, so hopefully that is good to go.
When you've been kicking it, whip the plug out, is it wet or dry?

Dry means no fuel getting into the engine . Wet means fuel getting in but spark not firing it.

Finally have you got reasonable  compression?

Singles / Re: C15 carb choke or no choke
« on: 01 March, 2024, 20:14:14 »
To have a choke lever on the bars and all the slide mechanism in the carb is a great benefit.
Otherwise you have to juggle the tickler , how much to flood the bike and currently , this cold weather demands both.

Singles / Re: 54 b33 primary cover !
« on: 27 February, 2024, 06:13:05 »
I seem to remember another machine I owned had a plate running across the top of this area you mentioned.
As the oil is picked up by the chain and thrown up to the top of the chain case, it then runs downwards above the clutch area.,
So I can see why the bike had this plate.
Also, there is generated a good frothing of oil , so a sensibly placed breather may help

Singles / Re: B31 Battery Fuse
« on: 25 February, 2024, 20:08:14 »
10amp is a reasona le size to have, giving good protection.

To save popping fuses whilst you're fiddling , use the spade terminals of the dead fuse and solder 2 wires to them.
Then take these 2 wires and solder them to a 5watt bulb.

If there is a short the bulb will light up.

If no short, it will light up when you turn something  on

Singles / Re: C15 Starting
« on: 24 February, 2024, 18:05:04 »
What is the spark like?
Should be a good blue crack at the plug

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