That's a neat and simple idea...why didn't I think of it?  I'll make something up similar which means I can now put the £100 or so a stand may have cost back into the build. Thanks for that!!  Rob

Will hopefully be starting the build of my second A65 motor before too long and thought that an engine stand will make life a bit easier.  Have looked at a few on line but these seem to be limited to 30kg max weight, Sealey MES01 for example.  With the A65 motors weighing around 62kg when built up can anyone recommend a suitable stand?  Thanks.  Rob

Thanks everyone for the responses and advice.  Love the DRZ400 BSA, looks amazing.  I had a feeling this wasn't going to be a straight forward problem to resolve!! Thanks for the tip about the DVLA and trying to get a hybrid registered as I don't have a V5 for the frame.  If my pile of engine bits won't make a complete motor without some very serious financial outlay (I'm skint after the current project build!) and with Jap motors looking problematic I think I may need to look for a complete BSA motor and go from there.  All fun and games in the classic world, but that's why we do it isn't it?  Happy spannering.  Rob

Having completed the recent restoration of my 1962 A65 I'm now looking at the huge pile of parts that came with it to see if there's another viable bike there. Ive got  a decent tank, frame, wheel hubs but the biggest concern is the state of the various rusty/knackered engine parts. From recent experience it will cost a small fortune to build back into a reliable power unit. I had at first thought of giving up on the idea of a second build and selling everything on.  However, perhaps I could use a more modern engine and build up a hybrid as the next project.  I want to stick to a 650cc air-cooled, carburettor, vertical twin if at all possible. Initially looking at a more modern (i.e. oil tight, more powerful) lump. Yamaha XS650 or early Chenai Royal Enfield interceptor units?  Concerned about the fit, particularly the height as these are overhead cam, wet sump designs which are likely to be taller than a BSA unit.  Has anyone in the club been down a similar route in the past and could offer some guidance?  Or will I be banished for thinking such heretic thoughts???  Rob

 Agree that some heat and penetrating fluid should do the trick. You're a little luckier than I was.  On my project some previous numpty (as opposed to this one!!) had used wood screws to fasten in the gauze would you believe!!! Took hours to drill 'em out and repair the threads.

Thanks for the advice which I'll try when I'm next in the shed.  I suppose it's one of the fundamental laws of the universe - the ease of starting is inversely  proportional to the number of people watching!!

Have now completed the build of my A65. Originally a 1962 Star but at some point in its history fitted with a twin carb (Lightning) head.  Rebuild has been comprehensive, including electronic ignition.  With new carbs fitted and following the cold start sequence found here in the clubs posts it fires first kick from cold every time (really!!) then ticks over and revs nicely.  All good.  Only problem is I can't get it fire up with a warm/hot engine. With a warm engine it's fuel on, no choke, no tickling, part throttle, ignition on.  Take it just past TDC, a hefty swing. Nothing, no matter how many times I try.  Have tried many combinations of throttle/choke/tickling but no joy. Once the engine has cooled, starts first kick. Reluctant to take it out for a run in case it stalls and I can't start it again. Does anyone have a technique I can try or where I can buy some magic dust from?  Thanks. Rob

In response to Roy's comment about the change from 19" to 18" front wheel.  My A65 has the speedo drive running off the front wheel rather than the rear.  I also have a Honda (sorry!) on which I reduced the front wheel from 19" to 18".  The speedo here now runs 5mph high as a result, i.e. if it reads 35 speed is actually 30.  Calibrated this from the speed readout on a TomTom Rider410 satnav.  I assume that the BSA will also now read around 5mph faster.

Now the bike is running I have an issue with charging.  The stator that came with the bike had exposed wires as they entered the resin outer of the windings.  i.e.the insulation failed.  I tried to repair this but obviously didn't!!  With lights on the bike will run for about 30 mins before beginning to misfire as I limped home.  Electronic ignition systems don't tolerate low supply voltages as well as points do so I guess this was was the problem. Makes sense to me as the ammeter showed a continuous drain of about 4Amps and there's a 9 Ah battery fitted. Getting it going again the voltage at the battery isn't a steady 14Vdc but flickers on the multimeter reading so i suspect the output of the alternator is dodgy.  There is a new rectifier, regulator fitted.  So I'll need to buy a new stator. The original is a single phase item.  Would it be worth upgrading to the later 3 phase (with suitable rect/reg unit) or should I just stick with the single phase set up?  Are modern reg/rect generic for both permanent magnet and self exciting type rotors or do I need a type specific one?   Sorry, seem to have written an essay again!  Rob

Thanks for the starting tip.  As a BSA ( and Brit bike in general) newbie, starting the bike consistently has been something I haven't mastered yet.  Sure it will be now though !!

Thanks everyone for the input. 28/32 front/rear seems to be what I would expect based on my other bikes so I'll go with that and see how the handling is when I can get a decent run completed.  I can then tweak from there.  Cheers.  Rob

Thanks for the quick response.  Glad I checked as I thought the Haynes figures looked a bit low!

A65 rebuild is all but finished now apart from a few details and whatever snags the initial runs throw up.  As I'm now venturing out onto the road I'd like to confirm what tyre pressures I should be running.  The Haynes manual states 21psi for the front and 22 psi for the rear which seems a little on the low side to me compared with other similar sized bikes I have.  The BSA has Avon Roadrider Mk II tyres fitted.  Rear size is 100/90-19 and the front  is 90/90-18.  The original front wheel dia should be 19" but the bike came with nice Boranni rims with an 18" on the front so I've stayed with this on the re-build.  What pressures do other folks use on their A65's?

Sorry for the response delay.  I eventually went for the Wassell carbs.  Only because my BSA parts and advice guru has sold loads of them and uses them on his bikes with little problem.  I managed to get them for £100 each rather than £250 ea being asked for the Amals.  I'm almost out of cash on this project!! Time will tell if i've made the right choice.  Before fitting I stripped them down and blew out all the passageways with an airline, all seems clear.  Initial starting was tricky but once running ticked over and revved nicely.  A pig to start though.  I hadn't realised that there needs to be a link pipe between the two inlet stubs to which the carbs are mounted. I'd thought these were take off points for vacuum gauges when balancing the carbs, so I'd blanked them off. Doh!  With the link in place the engine starts easily.  I'm still mystified though.  I've worked on lots of bikes over the years (all Japanese, German and Italian as it happens) and had not come across this layout before.  How does it work as surely the piston on the induction stroke is able to draw mixture from the opposite carb across the the balance pipe.  Or is it something more complex involving pressure pulses, harmonics etc?  Be interested to know if there's a technical article in the club archives somewhere that explains this.  Bike would have had its first road test this weekend but I decided to "nip up" the rev counter cable nut onto the adaptor boss on the timing case.  You guessed it....too many weetabix that morning and I snapped off the boss.  Of course, despite all of the spares I inherited with the bike there wasn't one of these in the "useful bits" pile, so waiting delivery of a new one.  But I'm so relieved that the engine runs OK, I can accept a little set back like this!! 

It runs!!  I eventually bit the bullet and bought some new carbs.  A few kicks to prime things, switch on the ignition, hefty swing on the kickstart and away it went.  Sounds really nice, top end a little tappety but so pleased it runs. There's a few things to sort out carb wise as it's reluctant to start from cold but it's a good base to start from. May even be able to 'tax' it (zero £'s) from August 1st  and take it on a run. Thanks for your patience and help. Rob