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Messages - Pete A10

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 12
1
Twins / Re: Rear brake cable
« on: 07 January, 2022, 16:17:23 »
Sorry, just realised rear nipple is a stirrup not a barrel. Centre to centre measurements still the same

2
Twins / Re: Rear brake cable
« on: 07 January, 2022, 16:15:39 »
My A10 is a 1959 bitsa but hopefully the same.
Outer cable is 12.5 inches
Inner cable is 20.25 inches measured between the centre of the nipples. Front nipple is a ball; rear is a barrel.
There is an adjuster at the rear bracket that is open by about 0.5 inches but this does not effect the lengths given above.
Venhill.co.uk will sell you all the bits or will make up a cable to your specification - not sure what the price for a made up cable is but they seem quite reasonable

3
Singles / Re: Taps for oil feed line
« on: 22 November, 2021, 19:39:40 »
Wet sumping is a pain to deal with, but my thinkingís is that we actually donít use these machines as they were originally designed to be used. We are talking about engines designed in the 1950s which were intended to be used day in day out as transport. They never got time to wet sump to any great degree as they were always in use. Now that we only use them as a hobby they tend to stand for weeks or months without running and the non-return valve is not designed for that kind of constant use. Whilst we all would love these 70 year old machines to perform in line with modern specifications itís not going to happen and we have to compromise/modify as best we can.
Good luck with your decision - I would fit the valve and then monitor it to make sure it is not blocking.

4
Singles / Re: Taps for oil feed line
« on: 22 November, 2021, 18:42:08 »
Decision time!  stop asking the same questions over and over again.

5
Singles / Re: B40 tight engine
« on: 14 November, 2021, 17:22:17 »
When I did my B40 I had a local engineering guy rebuild the bottom end. On his first attempt it was very tight and would hardly turn. Stripping it and checking he found that they had not pressed up the crankshaft sufficiently. Gave it a further squeeze and it rotated freely. It does mean an engine strip though. Same effect as having it shimmed wrong.

6
Singles / Re: Carb queries
« on: 06 November, 2021, 12:10:02 »
There is a YouTube video on unblocking pilot passageways on concentric carb may be useful - I canít work out how to copy the link!!

7
Singles / Re: Carb queries
« on: 05 November, 2021, 09:39:53 »
You say the problem has started since you had the tank lined. Have you checked that you have full flow through the filter and tap on the tank and that there is no detritus/resin line partially blocking the flow. If there is a blockage it would explain why the engine starts but will not run (I.e fuel starvation).

8
Singles / Re: Carb queries
« on: 03 November, 2021, 20:34:26 »
Yes. Carb cleaner sprayed through the pilot air inlet should spurt from BOTH holes. If it isnít then one of them is blocked. The two holes are the narrowest part of the system and would therefore be expected to catch any detritus coming through. Back blasting it would push the detritus through the wider parts of the system. You will need a narrow flexible tube (like you get on a WD40 can) which can be held tight over the small holes while attached to a carb cleaner nozzle. If necessary you could do it with WD40.
Another alternative to clean the pilot ways is to leave the carb body soaking in paraffin for 24 hours, then try blasting it out with carb cleaner.

9
Singles / Re: Carb queries
« on: 03 November, 2021, 17:05:58 »
Have you tried blasting the holes from the other side I.e. the engine side of the carburettor. If there is some minor debris partially blocking one or both of the holes it may come out if you essentially back-flush it

10
Twins / Re: A10 primary case oil.
« on: 28 September, 2021, 09:14:38 »
20 SAE oil is available on line. Lubron oils from an outfit called Alexoils.

11
Singles / Re: B40 tight engine
« on: 05 September, 2021, 09:53:35 »
If the engine has been rebuilt was it totally dry? Did you use STP or similar on all the key bearings during the rebuild. May need to inject some oil into various accessible places to make sure things a arenít binding a bit

12
Singles / Re: C15 forks
« on: 30 August, 2021, 10:03:21 »
If you look on the fork slider where the oil seal cover screws on there is a small groove. Get some cotton string and wrap it into this groove so it is just proud then screw the oil seal holder down onto and over it. That method gives me an oil tight seal on my B40 and A10.

13
Twins / Re: Q: Correct 1971 A65L Barrel Part #
« on: 06 August, 2021, 16:12:35 »
You said you were using Phosphoric acid for rust removal. While good for converting surface rust I am not sure that it penetrates very well. I assume you have tried a good quality industrial penetrating oil?
Can you hang the barrels on something so that the whole weight of the engine and bike is bearing on the rusted areas. This will give a constant pull on the pistons while you hammer (large hammer, gentle hits) on the pistons

14
Twins / Re: Loss of gears
« on: 22 July, 2021, 14:20:45 »
Put a jack under the engine to support the weight

15
Twins / Re: Loss of gears
« on: 22 July, 2021, 14:15:56 »
If you have got to the point where the primary drive cases and clutch are stripped off I would take the gearbox out of the frame to work on - drop the two rear right hand engine plates of and the gearbox can be taken out completely to the right hand side. Much easier to fettle the box on the bench rather than in the frame.

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