sorry to have offended some, but these programmes are "made for tv". I would suggest a "bung" being passed around to make the prog interesting.

Our local classic bike auction started off over 250 machines, when it stopped they couldn't muster 10, so the auctioneers lost interest  as no commission worth their time bringing camera, tv's and all the wiring.
being interested and a part time restorer I hung around with the half dozen local dealers. during the last few auctions, the same bikes were going around between dealers, then , if not sold, back again the next auction. £3k for a Lamberetta and that was over 10 years ago, I bought an A10 and a Tiger cub from a dealer back in the early 90's for over a grand, the T Cub had a hole in the tank your hand would fit through.
that was the sweetener. or so i thought. the A10 had wood screws holding the cases together, a Norton piston and nothing inside the cases apart from the crank and rods.
most of these programmes are complete oily rag jobs, how come any parts they want are easy to get? and with a good percentage knocked off even cheaper than I can buy trade. They dont have to wait a year to get cases bored and a crank reground like my current A50 has been waiting.

as for cars, Im selling up out of bikes and looking to buy a Firebird/Trans am, 2nd or 3rd gen. or possibly a Corvette C2 or C3. currently everything is miles away or too expensive. one 2nd gen is reported to be nearly £27k as its been recently restored. from the few that have had a look, they say its a good weld job, but would never be able to put back to original condition. my local specialist classic car shop has closed down due to covid and we have lost our local bike mot centre as of tomorrow. Things not looking good here, does this reflect elsewhere ?

shame time has progressed so much, up to 25 years ago I could have made whatever sprocket you want or even gears in gearboxes, but our "engineering" company only has 10 machines now and not even an off hand grinding wheel, well there is one but has scotchbrite wheels on..
not sure (since the takeover) but Talon (in Yeovil) used to do custom sprockets and not sure, but our old Sykes gear cutters went to a firm in Bath

that said, I bought an Amal from Salisbury and had to go back to India (its where they are cast and machined now) as when Salisbury tried to build it they couldnt, incorrectly bored, took extra month to get.

bit of a contradiction, you want a straight forward drop in , not interested in extra performance/economy and no extra tuning. buy the original, anything else will be trial and error.
Ive got a Mikuni on my A50, different manifold fixing and rubber couplings, cables, hoses,feed pipes.
you dont want to pay for a new one, only one (or two) real answers. rebuild yours or buy a used one from ebay.
with todays sources, ultrasonic clean, rebore the body, fit new plated slide, new jets and gaskets kits all available.
Ive recently sold around 8 or 10 Amal's on ebay (still got 2 on there) all useable none went for over £100.
the other option let someone else have a look at yours.


or buy a new one at a classic autojumble ,sometimes easier to negootiate a deal

I remember my next door business neighbour telling me ( he was an engineer specialising in Frazer NAsh cars), a friend of his sold part of a Nash that he didnt need as he was replacing the majority of parts while his restoration was off the road. the part had a serial number on and the new owner finished his build and registered his car and got the registration number associated with that serial number.
when the original owner finished and went to register the reg number DVLA told him it was not available, the other chap had it.

lesson there, maybe re stamp the same numbers on the new cases but keep the old ones and put a line through them. When bikes are scrapped due to bent frames, the head stocks (with numbers) are required to be sent back to Swansea to prove that number only exists once.

I have heard of people un seizing pistons with coke, but when spilt it tends to leave a sticky residue

turn the hammer you have around 180 degrees, use the wooden end, just as good