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Messages - hoogerbooger

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Singles / Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 15 April, 2018, 16:27:50 »
Two of the studs unscrewed when I removed the sump plate to drain the oil.

Should I be installing the studs first & using some form of locking compound to prevent them coming out again next time? or just use the nut on it to screw back in as if it were a bolt.

I have no locking compounds so wot would be good

(Re the paper gaskets: was just going to use grease)

Singles / oil tank union nut -oil seal to oil out hose
« on: 15 April, 2018, 15:48:39 »
just about to put oil tank /pipes back on.

I have a union nut that screws onto the bottom of the filter & a connecting metal oil pipe that goes through and pushes into the oil hose. Looking at the parts diagram (parts 13 & 14) below it seems it's not intended to any form of extra sealing:

Just wondering is this design is reliable or leaky ? and if leaky any tips on sealing

I've just removed the paint and muck I had on them and the pipe seems to seat ok in the nut

Singles / Re: Blue 1965 B40F's did they exist ?
« on: 15 April, 2018, 13:23:38 »
I'm presuming a BSAOC Vehicle Report checks for & indicates details from the factory despatch book. Does it ?

Singles / Re: Blue 1965 B40F's did they exist ?
« on: 14 April, 2018, 20:39:44 »
Great. Thanks for the catalogue extract. I will follow up with the dating request.

Singles / Blue 1965 B40F's did they exist ?
« on: 13 April, 2018, 17:57:41 »
My bike's V5 says it was registered in 1994; declared as made in 1965 & it has an age specific plate .  It is blue .

Have just received a copy of Rupert Ratio Vol 2 which seems to say UK B40 Stars (61 to 66) were either Royal Red or Black.

I'm now getting awfully concerned about my heritage ! I knew it had a few bits from elsewhere &  it lacks the Chrome tank sides.....but now I'm thinking it could be a cross between Dolly-the-Sheep and a Ford Cortina.

Is Rupert right ?

Are the factory despatch books accessible anywhere to see what they may say  ?( I am hoping that at least my frame and engine number might match !)

Singles / Re: B40 centre stand
« on: 13 April, 2018, 17:29:40 »
Interesting. My B40 has a strategically placed piece of pipe-lagging on the cross member of the stand which stops it whacking the silencer.

(when the wheels are back on I may need to investigate wear .....but it does the job & hod it clear)

Singles / Re: B40 Speedo - wots the right one ?
« on: 09 April, 2018, 12:59:38 »
many thanks.

The screeching noise could well be from a thin aluminium plate. I will revise my diagnosis to the magnet touching the drag plate/aluminium needle disk.... although not so sure why it doesn't make that sound at lower rotation speed.

So I won't connect it up/until I've ventured inside to try to probably a future point. Man at my MOT place said as long as he has something to note a mileage down from that'll do to get it on the road ! [my testing of it running on the drill now gives a reading 1.2 miles higher than the last MOT in 1998 (!!!) .....that'll do !]

It's a crimp on bezel. As long as I'm patient and careful uncrimping ( prizing up with a flat head looks like I should be able to re-crimp by just pressing with the screw-driver.....any tips?

Singles / Re: B40 Speedo - wots the right one ?
« on: 09 April, 2018, 11:11:04 »

I will give it a chance to see if it sorts itself out. (There currently a metalic screetchy sound when the rotation speed goes above  circa '10mph' It's then that the needle flickers)   

If I dismantle... it's a)look for crud and remove. But b) if crud doesn't look like the reason what lube is used where ?

Sounds like the needle bearing is not lubed ?

By the main spindle do you mean the part the drive cable goes into......i.e if that is jamming the cable head twists off ?   

Singles / Re: B40 Speedo - wots the right one ?
« on: 08 April, 2018, 21:59:37 »
just found something on repairing them/how they work.

Sounds to me like lack of lubrication on the needle may be able to address that without full dismantling/affecting calibration. can wait to some later date.

Singles / Re: B40 Speedo - wots the right one ?
« on: 08 April, 2018, 16:57:44 »
Over 80 !!  I recall being alarmed at 50 with a corner approaching!! Lower speed limits are the only thing I was concerned about. ( but can calibrate/check the  error against the car - or temporarily rig up a bicycle computer).

Never had it connected on the bike itself, but I did test it running on a  drill 19 years ago & it seemed ok. Just tried again on a drill and it was ok to 10mph but above that makes a whirring sound and the needle jumps up and down by 20 mph or so. I can't remember it doing this before (although I am getting more senior ! so can't be sure)

Anyone have an idea what sort of fault it is ? looks like they are supposed to be maintenance free/no need to lube. 

I'm wondering if this may be an intake of dust/cack through the open port that looks like its a bulb holder. Anyone taken the bezel off & cleaned/refurbed themselves? I'm wondering whether I may as well have a go at some point  or whether it's a don't bother leave it to a professional restorer/get a replacement ?

Singles / B40 Speedo - wots the right one ?
« on: 08 April, 2018, 11:49:13 »
Looks like I may have a speedo off a C15 on my 1965 B40 Star. I've got a Smiths 'grey face'  SSM2001/00 16000 (goes up to 80mph on the dial) I think SSM2001/02 1600 is the right speedo (goes up to 100mph on the dial (presumably just to impress rather than any need!)

Does anyone know if mine is definately the wrong speedo ? Were they ever fitted to B40s ?

With the different wheel sizes on C15/B40's I may find I have the wrong speeds showing ( if I get it to work) But  presumably with the right drive gear  (on the back wheel) it wouldn't matter as it's that that allows for the  wheel size  ?

So If, in due course, I find I have the wrong speeds showing it possible to get parts to change the gearing in the driver unit or is there a code number or pattern part I could look out for  ?

Singles / Re: B40F sump ball valve
« on: 06 April, 2018, 13:03:10 »
I Need to double check

I had original thought it was the  tube on the right  (towards front of bike) had the sump ball valve?

After staring at my 1965 manual and Rupert ratio I now think I was wrong and that the right/front pipe is the oil return from the pressure release valve.

a) So should the sump ball valve be the pipe on the left of my photo which appears to be the scavenge tube for the pump ( looks to me  as illustrated in Rupert Ratio Illus 5.12b, pg 36)

There's no evidence of a ball bearing there. I can insert a bicycle cable end in 3"  (full length of scavenge tube) before feeling what may be the gears rather than a bearing. I notice the end of the scavenge tube is threaded so it looks like a previous owner has removed or tried to remove it.  I'm wondering whether that means the ball was lost in the process and whether the internal shape of the tube seat is knackered so wouldn't hold a bearing ( even if I was brave enough to try and remove it).

It's only the oil from the return tube presumably that would drain to the sump as a result ( i.e the tank won't empty when engine off), with the risk that the lower pump gears gears end up dry and produce too little suction on start-up to return oil to the tank.

 b)But if that doesn't happen where does the oil go that is being pumped through the engine ? & once the sump is full ?

The advice provided on this forum was don't worry as long as the oil is returning to the tank.

c) So when I first start up the engine  do I just have the oil cap off and keep my eye out that oil is flowing out of the return ?

d) If it happens then,  can I be sure it'll carry on doing that once I put the cap back on !?

Singles / Re: tips? - fitting tight oil pipe
« on: 05 April, 2018, 17:01:34 »

.....which  means the old pipe is (funnily enough) the correct size ........but Draganfly have sent specced the wrong size.  I shall have a chat with Draganfly and will worry less about losing all the skin on my knuckles

Singles / Re: tips? - fitting tight oil pipe
« on: 05 April, 2018, 16:03:22 »
return pipe to oil tank.

(the new pipe I have  says it is 6.3mm, but on my measurement looks barely 6mm. I have no fancy measuring device but the metal pipe it needs to push over seems nearer 9-10mm and the bore of the old oil pipe nearly 8mm...although it's probably been enlarged from its use)

Singles / tips? - fitting tight oil pipe
« on: 05 April, 2018, 09:50:19 »
I've tried dipping the end in boiling water for a few minutes but still can't push the *am thing on. just spent a lot of time skinning my knuckles.

Not sure if its sensible to oil the outside of the case it encourages leaks ?

Any tips ?

[I have the right pipe by the looks of it for my B40F (1/4" -6.3mm) but the pipe I took off certainly appears to have a more generous bore]

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