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Messages - hoogerbooger

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Thanks Julian

(I think I need to phone DVLA on this as I'm not registered as SORN -due to stupid past oversight- and will need to register for tax purposes ( albeit at no cost) If I do this I hopefully will not get fined on the SORN. & when I have the tax registered I can then I believe get the engine number corrected on my V5 !! - I'm not sure if I can just rock-up to the post office with just a V5 & insurance to register for tax. It may still be sensible to get an MOT anyway )

The Star and Garter / Re: Kreem
« on: 17 October, 2018, 12:37:10 »
I haven't I'm afraid. After my searches of what to use I used POR15 as it seemed to have more support on-line in being easier to apply and get it properly coated. Seems to work in a better range of ambient temperatures. 

I bought the whole kit with old sealant  degreaser, phosphic acid & sealer. Seemed to work ok......but didn't manager to avoid damaging the tank paintwork, although that was mainly from the sealant remover I used which managed to escape around the tank cap seal I used. .  The sealer itself was the easiest bit to apply.

( I was amazed at how much rust dust was liberated by filling the tank with nuts n bolts and shaking...even though it didn't look that rusty)

Correct only has to be don't have to have the bezel back on. could put in the case & temporarily fix a plastic bag cover/perspex.

Bike is 1965.  When I phoned  in Feb 18  the DVLA said bike is not old enough & I need an MOT.

Thanks for suggestions.

Would be an easier option if the bike were on the road ..... & I need a speedo on the bike to get an MOT. which means putting it back in its' case. 

If I can't find someone who can answer my questions I'll have to botch up a temporary cover  and go for an MOT, then take up a road test options as suggested. Taking the bezel off and putting it back on isn't a walk in the park so it'd have to wait until i'm sure about the calibration.

Alternatively could drill a hole in the case in-line with the calibration screw & put the bezel back on...but I'd prefer to avoid if I can.

Must be someone out there who knows ?

I notice that essentially identical looking speedos working on 1600 revs per mile can have differing speed ranges on the face. So what differs ? return spring strength on the needle ? magnet strength ? or is it all in the calibration ??

I have an SSM 2001/00 speedo on my B40 Star. This is the 80MPH max one fitted to C15 Stars, rather than the 100MPH SSM2001/02 equivalent that was fitted to B40 Stars which was also 1600 turns to the mile.   

This speedo has been out of the case, but not taken apart. Before crimping the bezel back on, I've been trying to work out the chances of it approximating actual speed.....or being way out. (  I've never had it attached & running before on the bike)

Looking at Rupert Ratio he indicates the wheel and tyre size differences were addressed by the ratio in the gear box. Having just checked - I have the 2:1 ratio gear box that is correct for the 18" wheel & 3.5" tyre on my 1965 B40. So that should mean that the mileometer should be reading approximately correctly ( minded that actual tyre size will vary from tyre to tyre and wear).

With respect to registering road speed,  the speed the magnets turn is set and won't differ between the 80MPH and 100MPH max speedos. So is the road speed set by something that is essentially fixed/unadjustable i.e magnet strength or needle return spring strength ??   .......... or is it reliant on the calibration mechanism ????

Singles / Re: magnetic speedo repair...again!
« on: 11 October, 2018, 21:21:23 »
(hope I don't look too sad having this conversation with myself !!) 

As I now seem to have two functioning non-flickering Smiths SSM speedo's I thought I might as well trap on the thread the apparent solution to this particular problem.

Both speedos had the same issue a squeel and a flickering needle, one sometimes jumping way across the dial. It would appear in both it was the drive shaft spindle being dry and causing friction & vibration. As far as I could see there was no physical contact with the drag disk ( so am mistified about why the needle could jump so radically on the one speedo)

Adding a couple of drops of lube so that it soaks through the gap between the inner and outer of the cable end of the drive shaft did the trick. It carried on squeeling at first, even got worse briefly on one, then stopped and now both seem very smooth and quiet.

I was careful about not adding much as had read elsewhere not to get lube on to the internals as it attracts grime. I also read that synthetic bike lube is a good replacement for watch makers oil...but hadn't seen anything  anywhere on oiling this bearing, which it seems is polished steel ( on steel ?/plastic ?). After oiling and turning for 45 seconds with a slow drill ( avoiding any sudden change in speed as I read somewhere this might damage the spring) I stood it face up for a few hours just to make sure the lube didn't enter the internal. The lube I used was a dry synthetic wax oil for bicycle chains, which initially is runnier then dries somewhat.
I had fun taking two speedos out of their cases and taking one apart....but didn't actually need to !

On the one I did take apart I should re-calibrate it.  I may have a go. But I may not need to as:

1) before taking the needle off I painted line-up marks on the edge of the drag disk and amplifier plate above it. I used a tooth pick point to get a fine line. It was relatively easy to hold the two in place with the brush end of a small paint brush when replacing the needle to the original position against the stop wire.

2)before unscrewing the calibration screw I painted lines to show the starting orientation of the screw slot, then counted the number of half turns before the thread disengaged. I also took a side on photo to compare with after.  So I'm hoping the calibration won't be far away from where it was before  ( which was no doubt nowhere near actual speed !)

I took the drag disk,amplifier plate, mounting bar and spring all off in one piece. Great care needed. Don't dangle the drag disc & have something with a hole in it ready to carefully place the disk spindle into.

I've spent 6 months or so scratching my head and asking questions on this one.  I might just get the bike back on the road this year !. Hope the above may help someone else.

Singles / Re: magnetic speedo repair...again!
« on: 10 October, 2018, 20:20:46 »
having played with it a bit it would appear friction on the drive shaft/spindle is causing the squeel and varies. occasionally it doesn't squeel and sometimes it gets louder. If I hold the unit loosely in the hand with a slow drill carefully turning it, then when the squeel gets louder there is obviously more friction/turning force and the unit will spin in the the bearing is pretty useless. What is the bearing ?? oiled felt ?? Whatever, doesn't look like I can ignore the squeel.

I can feel a bit end float on the shaft (if held upside down and I push the magnet)

looking down the drive shaft end I can see an inner shaft and a gap to the outer housing. Am wondering if this gap is something to get a little synthetic bicycle chain lube into ?

or is it some other type of bearing and I need to dismantle further ?


Singles / magnetic speedo repair...again!
« on: 10 October, 2018, 17:51:37 »
I have been dismantling a spare speedo ( not having fixed my original, the needle refusing to come off so far)

With the drag disc assembly and mounting bar that just the worm gear and magnet remain......... the unit squeeks/squeels on turning.  There doesn't however appear to be much lateral play at all when I try pushing the magnet from side to side.

I  haven't worked out how to dismantle further and am not sure that I need to.  Is there an way to oil the drive shaft end to remove the squeel ??

or do I just ignore the squeel ? and clean and reassemble the other parts ?

I've been trying to track back the history of my 1965 B40.  My V5 says it was put back on the road in 1994 and it got an age related number plate. It starts "HAX" which is Monmouthshire  ( although I note after 1974 it applied to Cardiff). Do the DVLA  just pick age related plates randomly...or do they pick an appropriate area related number if the evidence is provided ???

I ask as I recall the previous owner ( now unfortunately deceased) telling me it was a company bike at a steel works ( it is actually made from two B40s that BSAOC have confirmed were shipped as a batch of 5 to a Cardiff distributor). I've failed so far to google any reference to any steelworks using BSAs/B40s. I'm wondering if the HAX of my Registration is a clue ! and maybe I should focus further searching on the Monmouthshire steel works ?

advice very welcome.

Singles / Re: B40 Speedo - wots the right one ? & repair
« on: 07 September, 2018, 11:12:25 »
From memory, I think the needle rotates in a self lubricating brass bearing. However, if it's not that, it may be a build up of crud stopping the aluminium plate attached to the needle from rotating freely. Either way, if you pull off the needle and unscrew the dial, you can then get at the needle mechanism and clean and lube it as necessary. It's only when you need to get at the drive spindle or the odometer mechanism that you are likely to disturb the calibration.

As a reminder my speedo squeels and the needle will dart across.

If it is not just crud build up catching the drag plate and rather it's a worn spindle bearing ( so that there's some play and the magnets catch the drag plate some times..........then is that something I can potentially repair myself ....or will it need a new part....if they can be got ???

( as it is the needle is still resisting removal & I'm awaiting arrival of tools to increase my chances  in this life & death struggle)

Singles / Re: speedo repair - needle removal
« on: 05 September, 2018, 10:53:26 »

I'd been thinking I can't heat it easily without damaging paint on the face. Hadn't thought of soldering iron. I've used a jet cigarette lighter before to heat localised areas but think this is too risky, so I'll try a low power electrical soldering iron.

Will also try freeze thaw a few times, then heat after it's thawed.

unfortunately I haven't got fine enough needle nosed will start looking for

fingers crossed

Singles / speedo repair - needle removal
« on: 03 September, 2018, 11:24:47 »
I watched some youtube videos. Piece of card slid under the needle and then carefully with 2 levers prize off.

I've tried &  dare not prize harder. Seems to be stuck. Possibly a little rust on the shaft ? from condensation  ?

I've applied a drop of WD 40 onto the centre of the needle/spindle joint. No luck.

So should it have come off easily ? seem to on the videos. any tips that might work without destroying the speedo. 

Singles / Re: leaky fuel banjo - MK1 concentric
« on: 16 August, 2018, 18:38:00 »
 Should the fiber washer be tight against the bolt shaft ?

the new fiber washers I have have a larger ID than the OD of the banjo bolt shaft...and it as leaking like crazy with that washer size

I swapped back the the old banjo bolt and washer with the new banjo .....and it still leaks, but a lot less. Whilst that washer fits the banjo bolt shaft snuggly it is a bit battered.

hoping not to resort to gasket sealant. Hoping it might just be getting the right washer

Singles / Re: leaky fuel banjo - MK1 concentric
« on: 06 August, 2018, 21:10:55 »
yes. new nylon filter & new fibre washer.

old washer looks thicker and was pretty scuffed...bit didn't leak

Singles / leaky fuel banjo - MK1 concentric
« on: 06 August, 2018, 19:33:35 »
broke the spike off old banjo.. replacement leaks....seems to be coming out around the fibre washer then dripping off the bolt head....rather risk !!

should I have greased the washer or somit ? 

I've looked at the top and bottom  surface of the banjo and they seemed flat. But I've given both a light sanding on glass in case there was uneveness.

Any any leaks tips welcome ...b4 I put it back on (and try to set the garage ablaze)

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