Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - RogB

Pages: [1] 2
Twins / Re: Gearbox Oil
« on: 17 August, 2020, 13:53:42 »

Sidecars / Re: Sidecar attachment
« on: 07 March, 2020, 20:55:02 »
For anyone that may be interested went for a good test run this afternoon (to the pasty shop  :) and back) with my wife in the sidecar.

A couple of weeks ago I ended up making even more adjustments to the alignment. Now it's 1" toe-in and 1/2" lean out (which increases by 1/8" with rider seated). Now I can say the handling is good and I don't think I could improve on it. Steering is now light, it doesn't pull excessively to either left or right and now I've screwed the damper down another turn the handlebar shake is now minimal when going over bumps, sunken manhole covers, etc. but no shake otherwise.

I've also fitted indicators with orange LED bulbs (bought from Goffy at the Bristol Classic Bike show), fitted a green Lucas indicator warning light in the nacelle just in front of the speedo fitted with a green LED bulb. So now bike and sidecar have all LEDs, except the headlight which I'll keep as British Pre Focus Quartz Halogen 35/35W. Took a lot to convince myself to drill the 1/2" hole in the nacelle for the warning light though :-\

The latest improvement, completed only this morning and of which I'm particularly happy with, is semi-western handlebars. As I had to fit an indicator switch, with grip, levers and mirrors I'd run out of straight bar and had to fit the switch just after the bend on the standard bars, which wasn't particularly easy or safe to operate. The bars I eventually settled on, after a lot of deliberation, are actually Norton ones (pt no 06-1046) by LF Harris, with a width of 32", a rise of 4 3/4" and pull back of 7" and a very useful 10" of straight bar at each end, so the indicator switch now sits between the lever and the mirror clamp and is easily reachable with my forefinger to move the knob for right indicators or my thumb for left indicators without having to take my hand of the grip. The extra 5" length of the bars also definitely helps with the steering and gives me a more upright and relaxed riding position.

So happy days.

The Star and Garter / Re: Oil seepage at union fittings
« on: 24 February, 2020, 12:17:28 »
Eek!  Don't ever forget to turn it on before starting.

Sidecars / Re: Sidecar attachment
« on: 29 January, 2020, 14:54:39 »
Will do Rob, and thanks for the help & advice.
I'm looking into fitting some bullet type LED indicators to the outfit now. I'm going to the Carole Nash Classic Motorcycle Show at Shepton Mallett this weekend, so I'm going to have a look at what Paul Goff has to offer. Failing that it'll be something from Alchemy Parts.

Sidecars / Re: Sidecar attachment
« on: 25 January, 2020, 16:15:03 »
Reporting back on my experience of attaching a Watsonian GP Manx to my swinging arm Golden Flash, which has kept me busy in a cold garage for the past three weeks.

I've now fitted new sidecar fork springs, 18T engine sprocket, 67 pitch primary chain and original looking rear shocks but with 126 lbs/inch springs.

I managed to get the axle lead down to 9" and brought the sidecar closer to the bike so the track is now 44 1/2".  Toe-in and lean were as before.  Went for a test ride and found the left turns were still heavier than rights, otherwise ok.

So yesterday I was back in the garage again to increase in the toe-in slightly. I was aiming for 7/8" to max of 1", but when all the fixings were pulled up really tight, sidecar body fitted back on and with my wife sat on the bike it ended up as 1 3/16" (30 mm) toe-in  :-\.  Lean out was 3/8" and as it was the end of the day I decided to leave it and have another go at it another day.

So this morning, being prepared to spend another day in a cold garage, I thought maybe I should go for a test ride first - just to see what it handled like with 30 mm of toe-in.  Contrary to what I've read toe-in should be, to my surprise (and delight) it seems fine.  Left turns are much the same as right ones now, but with a smaller track I was very wary of left corners. There's no noticeable difference in pull either way on a flat road at 30 mph (with hands hovering just above the handlebar grips). Next I put my 14 kg scissor lift in the sidecar to add some weight and went for another test ride and felt far more confident when turning left.

With the damper screwed down there is still some handlebar shaking when going slowly over bumps in the road but it's not uncontrollable when expected, so I'm going to leave it at this and hope the increase in toe-in doesn't end up scrubbing the sidecar tyre too much.

Regards, Roger.

Sidecars / Re: Sidecar attachment
« on: 05 January, 2020, 14:25:59 »
Hi Rob & Bernie, many thanks for your responses.

The planned over the winter jobs have now turned into 'now' jobs and yesterday I disconnected the GP Manx and this morning I removed the solo 21T engine sprocket. I'm now waiting for my son to arrive later this afternoon to help me put my bike up on my work platform to make it easier to fit the 18T sprocket and new primary chain. Then I'll change the fork springs and fit new shocks from PJB Shocks with a higher 126 lb spring rating.

Then when I get my A10 back on the ground I'll tackle the GP Manx again. Looking at the chassis and the fittings I have I think I can get my axle lead down to 9" (so 16% of wheelbase) and I'm going to try 2" between footrest and chassis rail.

Regards, Roger.

Sidecars / Re: Sidecar attachment
« on: 01 January, 2020, 19:15:46 »
Thank you both for your advice.

I bought the GP Manx (second hand) from Watsonian. It came with four arms but three were too short for an A10, so I bought new clamps and the three other arms from Watsonian.

Ben (at Watsonian) suggested 3/4" toe-in and 20% of the bikeís wheelbase for axle lead. That worked out to 11.4".  I tried that first but had a feeling it was too much and reduced it to 10".

I can only move the chassis back by about another 1/2" because the cranked arm at lower front needs to enter the block on the chassis rail at a right angle and the block can only slide forward by another 1/2Ē  before it butts up against the end of the chassis (see pic).  Whether I can move the front lower clamp back so itís on the tube in a lower and more horizontal position and twist the arm around so it will still enter the block squarely - Iím not sure, as it may then point up or down too much, depending on which way it's twisted.  Something Iíll just have to try when I tackle it again.

(Edit) Also the rear block can be seen in the pic. It's on an angle because the rear lower arm is a straight one and the block needs to be at that angle for the arm to enter it squarely, so if necessary I may be able to tilt the front one slightly for the front arm.

I'm also wondering whether I should bring the chassis a bit closer to the bike. From the end of rider's footrest to chassis is 4". Track from centre of bike's rear tyre and centre of sidecar tyre is 47".  Any thoughts on that?

The fork springs were from here - so I hope they're ok.

Sidecars / Sidecar attachment
« on: 30 December, 2019, 07:33:05 »
Hi, can anyone recommend attachment measurements for fitting my Watsonian GP Manx to my swing arm Golden Flash?

I've recently attached it and after several attempts I eventually settled on these measurements:
Axle lead 10" (254mm) which is 18% of bike's 57" (1450mm) wheelbase.
Tow-in with rider seated 3/4" (19mm).
Lean out with rider seated 1/2" (12.5mm).
Track is 47" (1194mm).

Damper is screwed down a turn from solo adjustment.

Travelling at about 30 mph my outfit tracks straight enough with a slight pull towards sidecar on acceleration and a slight pull the other way on braking.  However the steering seems heavy on left turns but better on right ones (ie at junctions).

Over the winter I'm going to fit my new 18T engine sprocket with a new Regina primary chain and change the solo fork springs for sidecar ones.  I'll be removing the sidecar to do this and I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations for when I refit it.


Twins / Re: A10 convertion to 12v negative earth
« on: 16 July, 2019, 15:16:27 »
On my 1960 G/Flash with DVR2, positive earth and keeping the Ah low (see below) I'm using:-

Headlight: 12v BPF Quartz Halogen 35/35w (2.92Ah).
LED stop / tail: 4w (0.33Ah) & 1.25w (0.105 amps).
LED pilot bulb: 1.5w (0.125Ah) Note: Pilot bulb does not come on when headlight is switched on.
Speedo bulb: 2.2w (0.18Ah).

When the DVR2 kicks in at moderate revs it keeps my 12v Motobatt MB9U AGM, 11Ah battery charged.

Twins / Re: which battery
« on: 01 July, 2019, 22:05:06 »
I fitted a Motobatt MB9U AGM Battery to my 12v converted 1960 G/Flash in 2017. Fits in battery compartment perfectly and keeps it's charge - even over the winter months when my bike doesn't get very many long runs to charge it.  Big advantage is that it's sealed and being absorbent glass mat you don't have worry about acid spillage.

Twins / Craven Panniers
« on: 01 July, 2019, 21:43:54 »
I've just emailed Craven about a set of panniers for my 1960 Golden Flash. I've been looking at either Craven Dolomites or Rodarks. From what I can make out it seems that the Dolomites, or any of the other case shaped panniers need a Craven W-rack and also the pannier fitting kits, which, to me, seems to be all brackets and straps, but there's no mention as to how the Rodarks are fitted. Does anyone Know?

MY G/Flash has rear crash bars fitted and I already have a stainless carrier rack fitted, which I'm more than happy with, it being strong and minimalist and I much prefer it over the Craven rack (see photo).

Any advice, comments or experience in fitting these panniers would be most welcome.

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 31 August, 2017, 22:37:37 »
Cheers Eddie, got all that. I've already bought another pressure plate and this'll be a job for the winter months. If I mess up I still have my original set up.

Thanks for giving me all the details.

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 30 August, 2017, 21:45:27 »
Eddie, what do you reckon on this (PE400)?

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 30 August, 2017, 21:16:49 »
Many thanks Eddie.

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 30 August, 2017, 12:16:48 »
Hi Eddie,
Do I understand correctly that you mean the slightly rounded circular metal piece (as opposed to captive ball) inside the pressure plate?

Pages: [1] 2