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Messages - Pippinz

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Twins / Re: Twin leading shoes
« on: 30 July, 2017, 13:28:24 »
The wheel is off so I will check the shoes are in the right way round, the cams are fitted correctly from memory. 

The brakes are exactly as you describe so I had taken most the slack out at rest thinking there was a problem but ended up doing something similar to a red arrows display with smoke pouring from the fron wheel after a mile or two. Thanks again, this site and its members are brilliant.

Whilst at the road side letting them cool I had two other classic bikes stop to offer assistance and got into other conversations with a couple walking their dogs. One of the nicest brake downs I've ever had.


Twins / Twin leading shoes
« on: 30 July, 2017, 11:14:22 »
Getting there but need some more help please.

Can the cams be put in the wrong way around ?

Which way do the shoes go in ?

Does any one have a photo of the shoes correctly installed. I have found a few dubious installations and think the brakes be in a similar vein.

I have read about adjustments and the one that made sense to me was to disconnect the link and ensure the shoes were centered, flip the disc and offer up the link bar. If it does not offer up in the correct position it needs adjusting. This seems simple compared to some of articles I have read but this should also ensure both are applied at the same time. Thoughts please!

My other issue is the spongy lever is this because it's installed incorrectly? The lever looks genuine so I expect the travel to be as designed so I'm guessing I will start by finding a cable that will not compress or stretch to see if this is the culprit. Does anyone have the part number for the cable ( 69 thunderbolt ) and recommend a supplier of decent cables.

Many thanks

Twins / Re: air/choke worth fitting on concentric carbs?
« on: 25 July, 2017, 23:33:45 »
I have only had my twin carb thunderbolt a few weeks but already I have learnt to inspect everything after the first job was to put equal amounts of plates in the clutch and in the correct order so I don't assume and take nothing for granted.

My bike has had the chokes removed and the cable gland have not been plugged. I was informed it always starts first time.... well as the plugs and filters were completely black I'm was not surprised and obviously it was running rich and was awful and unresponsive to ride. I replaced the pancakes which were filthy, cleaned the plugs and checked the gap and went for what I though were factory base setting on the carb. I found 1 turn out on the mixture screws to be a good starting point. Still a disaster, bike over reving, all over the place stalling at lights etc etc. As the pancakes were off I opened the throttle until one of the slides completely cleared the intake and adjusted that slide cable or the other until they both disappeared together... carbs now synced and one less thing to worry about.

Today managed to get it running right after reading a few posts and engaging a bit of common. I removed the pilot jet ( the horizontal one ) sprayed the hole with carb cleaner and snipped the end off a B chord guitar string. This is about .014 of an inch slightly smaller than the hole and had a good poke about until I was sure there was nothing obstructing the jet. The passage is quite deep but then hits a 90 degree bend but I was confident I had cleared any obstruction if there had been one.

All put back together then held the ticklers in for a couple of seconds to get some fuel into the engine. Kicked it over once then turned the ignition on and with the throttle fully closed kicked it again. Once fired mine needs operator input on the throttle to warm it up.

Once warm I adjusted the tick over/slide ( angled screws ) to get it ticking over above it stalling. Now the fun started. Pick either carb gently turn the horizontal mixture screw in or out until the revs increase. Do this very slowly blipping the throttle between adjustments, now take the associated angled screw out a little to lower the revs back to where they were if nothing happens go to the other side and turn the angled screw out anti clockwise to drop the revs to the previous level. Do the same with the opposite carb and adjust the mixture screw until you get a rise in revs then anticlockwise on the tickovers to bring it back down. Go back and forward increasing the revs with the mixture screw until there is no increase in revs. If you go past the sweet spot the engine will feel like it is going to stall so turn the screw back a little. Once there is no increase using the mixture screws you can bring the revs down to where you want it to idle by adjusting the angled screws a little at a time. If there is no immediate drop in the revs go to the other cylinder adjust the stop until you get a drop then back to the other side . A little at a time produces the best results. My bike now runs as it should and I was about to order new carbs..!

Although I ordered the choke and cables etc I won't be putting the chokes back in my particular bike as it can be feathering on the throttle once it is started until it warms and settles. It is nice that these machines almost have there own personality and I'm sure everyone is different. I hope this may help someone else but as a newbie I'll wait to be corrected by a more knowledgeable member. My bike is running better than expected and having to stop at lights no longer creates the panic it used to.

I may use a set of compressable ear plugs to block the glands and go through the set up again to see if it has had any effect. I can't believe what is being charged for a bolt on the net.

Hope this helps someone

Twins / Re: Newbie first classic advise
« on: 16 July, 2017, 00:32:37 »
I have already found this site invaluable and there are some very knowledgeable people willing to help.

In my first few weeks of ownership I now take nothing for granted having seen some poor workmanship but there is nothing that can't be fixed, well almost everything.

Good luck should you decide to purchase one.

Twins / Re: A65 basket case
« on: 16 July, 2017, 00:09:07 »
Thanks to all the help and advice.

Thrust washer and bearings checked, 14 plates put back in correctly and operating as it should, imposssible to do without the correct tool and advice on how to use it.

Head lamp now held in with the correct W clips not tape, rear brake light connector replaced, high low - horn switch replaced and the lights work as they should.

Cotterpin in the kickstart given a good tap and now secure.

Pancakes changed as the plugs sooted up but wil lean up the carb when I can get hold of a colour tune.

Best news I was actually able to use it today for the first time since I bought it and happy I did.

Twins / Re: A65 basket case
« on: 10 July, 2017, 22:34:25 »
I think the book recommends castrolight but I'll find something around 10-30 weight and ensure I don't overfill it. The biggest fix by far is putting the correct number of plates in and in the correct order.

I'm away this week but will pull the clutch basket out for peace of mind and I have an extractor tool and also know how it should be used thanks to Trev. It is a throw back to a distant era where people had to understand the components and how they work which is why I'm so hooked on a bike which I have ridden for 2 miles and is in a number of parts around the garage floor.

I will try to post a conclusion to this thread after the weekend but I'm sure I will require some more information. Wait out..........again thank you

Twins / Re: A65 basket case
« on: 10 July, 2017, 09:44:11 »

Starting to make sense, all the parts look brand new but there is one more steel than there should be. Six and six would make more sense as the first friction plate runs down the guide in the clutch drive and can't fall between the gap. However I'm one friction short which will be sorted as I have already ordered a seven plate kit.

My concern now is do I need to pull the clutch center off? The basket doesn't have any play but the bodge on the plates has concerned me.

I'm hoping to be able to get a puller behind the clutch center but after that I have read so many problems with extractor tools being stripped on the threads trying to remove the last part.

My other thought is I've gone this far on such a vital part that I may as well finish the job and inspect the roller bearing whilst and drive rubbers.

I'm starting to realize what I have got myself into but it's been many a year since I've had such a broad smile on my face.

Thanks for the advice and help really appreciated.

Twins / A65 basket case
« on: 09 July, 2017, 20:38:45 »
New to the forum and in desperate need of help.

I bought one a week or two ago and straight away had some issues with the clutch slipping so made a few adjustment and read about the oil being possible overfilled and too heavy but I want to bring this bike back to life and getting to understand it First seems to take priority over making it shine.

It is a 69 thunderbird with 3 spring clutch so I took the cover off removed the plates but was surprised to find seven steel 5 friction. The last steel plate having fallen off the guides sitting behind the clutch centre. To remove it I had to lift and rotate it until the key matched and struggled to then get it off.
Is somethind missing as this surely can't be right. I have read about thicker steel plates but it still make no sense that the plate can fall off the back of the clutch centre. I have read numerous articles and forums and I'm not even sure which order they should go in.

It would make more sense for a friction plate first as at least it would be held in the chain wheel but I put it back together without the extra plate and I need to screw the nuts right up and still didn't have enough pressure to engage the engine.

Before looking at it I ordered a 7 plate friction plate set thinking it would cure all but I'm now trying to get my head around what is happening.

I live in derby and would appreciate some guidance on the matter.

Initially the bike felt like it was slipping did a few changes that not disengaging the parts I've inspected so seem in good condition but I'm surprised at the gap between clutch centre and chain wheel and taking one of the steel plates out means I can't get sufficient pressure on the basket.

Love the bike so I'm guessing I'll be a regular on here

Twins / Re: Identify engine casing
« on: 18 June, 2017, 17:47:41 »
OMG not sure what to say about that. Looking at another tomorrow which may not be too shinny but it is used and complete.

Twins / Re: Identify engine casing
« on: 18 June, 2017, 13:53:30 »
It has really put me off. I remember my early bikes, I was alway so called "improving" them with after market parts or mods but I have never seen a case like this and I don't think it would be cheap to replace that's if I could find one in the first place. Thanks for the reply

Twins / Identify engine casing
« on: 18 June, 2017, 01:24:08 »
I have been looking to buy a thunderbolt/lightning and came across this one but I have never seen one with an inspection port above the kickstand.
Could one of the members enlighten me as to what it is and explain what keep the gunk out


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