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Singles / Re: Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 18 May, 2018, 10:44:27 »
I have been out of commission a few days and just seen I had some brain flatulence re thread angle of BSF. Over 70 (that is years not MPH) and it seems to happen more often. I am sure hoogerbooger has the main theme of my post. Hope it all seals up for you. Happy riding.

Singles / Re: Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 13 May, 2018, 21:32:02 »
You are lucky that 1/4 inch BSF is exactly the same as 1/4 inch cycle thread (BCY) which is 26 TPI and a 60 degree thread form. Do not try BSF to the other BCY sizes, as they DO NOT interchange. Bolt it up and get riding. If it leaks a little it proves you had oil in! ;D

Singles / Re: Advice on a B31 please
« on: 28 April, 2018, 10:26:50 »
It sounds like a plunger B31. Great bike, they still go even when worn out! Get it bought (from your uncle up to 2500 - privately up to 3500). Clean the chrome the best you can and using an oily rag over it and a spray here and there on the rusty bits with WD40, nothing will get any worse. I have had loads of fun on mine over the years in just that condition. Full restorations can easily cost 2000 to make them pretty again! Plenty of help here on the forum with running and riding. Plus you will always get your money back if it turns out not your thing, being a bit different to a Honda (you would be unlucky to lose your licence even if ridden flat out!).

Singles / Re: Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 27 April, 2018, 10:27:36 »
If you have 1/2 inch of good thread, then that will be plenty, but clean the thread to get rid of all traces of oil, otherwise threadlock will be a waste of time. Similarly wire brush the male threads. I usually give the threads a squirt of carb cleaner and blow off with an airline before using threadlock. Test screw in first by hand to the depth you require and then follow with threadlock and leave to set before final assembly. Finally do not use big socket sets to tighten small nuts. For 1/4 bolts and studs into alloy, need little more than a 4 to 5 inch spanner !!!!  Good luck.

Singles / Re: Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 26 April, 2018, 21:47:29 »
1/4 inch BSW threads are the same pitch as 1/4 inch UNC, except that the former has a thread angle of 55 degrees and the latter 60 degrees. Which makes the use of UNC useful when dealing with worn BSW thread holes, which is often the case. Are you sure the thread in your stud hole goes right the way in to an inch deep - it is rare that they cut the thread that deep even if the hole is that depth.  If the thread is that deep, then for simplicity in your case, buy a UNC allen set screw of the required length using a spring washer under the head, making sure that it will not bottom out AND do not over tighten - just use a couple of fingers on the allen key. At most auto jumbles you can buy taps that are good enough to clean threads out in alloy very cheaply. If you have 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 taps in BSW for studs or in UNC for allen set screws you will meet most situations. When I re-build an engine or gearbox I ALWAYS remove all studs and gently file flat the inevitable raised lip around the holes, for a better gasket face. I also ALWAYS clean out thread holes with a suitable hand held drill bit to remove all traces of gasket glue and then clean the thread with a suitable tap. I have lost count of thread holes AND casings, found burst open by hydraulics involving Hermatite or similar that I have found needing serious attention.

Singles / Re: magdyno base
« on: 23 March, 2018, 21:03:05 »
As Andy says your platform looks quite good and I see no reason why your standard round dowels should not be fine. If you have a good eye then you should be able to get the shaft nice and concentric. Do check there is a small amount of backlash in the mesh of the gears when fully assembled. If your magneto base is anywhere near as good as the platform, you should have no problems at all. Good luck,  Malcolm.

Singles / Re: magdyno base
« on: 23 March, 2018, 11:18:31 »
I am not sure what you mean by "half moon ". I have not come across that shape on Lucas Magdyno bases before. Your problem is obviously linked to your previous post regarding the oil seal. Can you tell us what you have found that requires something different to the round locating pegs normally fitted? Have the holes or platform faces worn excessively? Are round pegs there? Some more information is needed in order to advise you. Can you post a picture showing the problem? 

Singles / Re: Magdyno timing case oil seal
« on: 19 March, 2018, 12:39:13 »
If the seal is a good fit on the magneto shaft, but a loose fit in the recess, would suggest a seal that is slightly undersize. I cannot see how the recess could wear. I would not let it worry me too much, but fit the magneto properly fastened down and offer the seal in place and see if it all looks concentric - magneto bases/crankcase platforms can wear badly if run for prolonged with the clamp loose. Rectify with appropriate shims locating pegs etc. etc. and when ok the seal can be glued in place. I would go for silicone if there is an appreciable clearance or Loctite as suggested if minimal.

The Star and Garter / Re: Bike recovery
« on: 16 March, 2018, 21:08:15 »
I was with the RAC for at least 20 years and hardly used them except when a chain snapped on a Suzuki I had many years ago - it was good quick service.....until last year when I needed them twice! Once on a bike breakdown and once in the car. On both occasions it was over 25 minutes before anyone even answered the phone at the RAC and on the bike occasion, my mobile battery ran out while the phone was ringing and I had to walk to the nearest property to borrow a landline call. The actual pick up service was good ( usually contracted out), but it is no fun waiting all that time to get connected. The RAC got kicked into touch at the next renewal. We shall see how my new provider performs, but what is certain, whoever we use we do need to be able to contact them.... so first we need a fully charged mobile....and secondly a decent signal! 

Singles / Re: B31 valve lifter
« on: 04 March, 2018, 20:47:37 »
Quoting from the B31 owners manual...."the lever on the outside of the rocker box, should have appreciable free movement before it starts to open the valve.........Adjustment is normally carried out by means of the cable adjuster on the rocker box cover, but the actuating arm can be removed and reset to any position on its serrated shaft".

Now if my memory serves me correct it is a fine spline of about 5/16 inch dia. and should prove enough adjustment. Your cable adjuster screws into the rocker cover and is the anchor end for your cable outer. The lever will come off by careful levering after removing the nut. If the problem cannot be solved by adjustment, I think the cable may be incorrect. Remember the free movement quoted during your adjustments.

Twins / Re: Recommend N Yorks
« on: 01 March, 2018, 20:01:37 »
Hi Peter, This is not an offer to do the work for you, but I probably live less than 10 minutes from you and have owned two A10`s and an A7, still have a Rocket and the plunger A7. I know my way round these bikes and only too pleased to offer guidance and some assistance, if you fancy tackling some the work yourself. I have most of the special tools required if needed. Make contact with me using PM service on this forum. Not crawling under bikes in this weather though!

Twins / Re: Oil Pressure gauge
« on: 14 February, 2018, 20:05:18 »
Seem to have missed one...try again.

Twins / Re: Oil Pressure gauge
« on: 14 February, 2018, 20:03:01 »
I once fitted an oil pressure gauge to a B25, which was easy as there is a ready made 1/8BSP port ready to tap into. It was very reassuring to have in place. I was hoping to fit one on my latest twins, but chickened out for exactly the reason Julian made. It is possible and there is space, but I would want bare crankcases to work on, to drill and tap a port. I believe the Triumph PRV with pressure sensitive button, do interchange with the BSA ones, as I did make enquiries with SRM on this, if all you need is an indication of "some" pressure.

As for the filter, I include pictures of my fitment to my pre-unit A10 and my latest project which is a plunger A7. The latter was the more difficult location, between the frame and rear mudguard, being the only suitable location. Hopefully my effort to learn how to re-size pictures for the forum works.

The Star and Garter / Re: dvla new commitie
« on: 20 January, 2018, 21:42:21 »
Received my age related registration this morning. It took well over a month to complete and included a further inspection for the DVLA, by some contractor for the DVLA. This process is getting harder each and every time I undertake it. I think the next project had better come to me with documents!

The Star and Garter / Re: dvla new commitie
« on: 05 January, 2018, 20:51:31 »
Received notification today from the DVLA that they wish to inspect my machine, which is apparently done by "SGS", whoever they are. No mention of date of manufacture or details on the dating certificate, so I can only presume that part of it is ok? I have booked the inspection for next Tuesday. We will see what happens next?

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