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1
Twins / Re: Clutch Issue after engine rebuild. A65 3 Spring
« on: 16 June, 2018, 15:41:18 »
For what its worth I think the described wear combined with the sharp edges on new clutch plates (stone them off first) is the major reason for a stiff clutch. So, file them out of not too bad, otherwise replace the basket but they are expensive! (125).

2
Twins / Re: A 65 Rebores and re-sleeves
« on: 16 June, 2018, 11:13:16 »
OUCH!

3
Twins / Re: Rotor nut torque setting?
« on: 12 June, 2018, 11:31:45 »
That figure 'figures' as it were, as the A65's Rotors are prone to rattle about on the crankshaft making the woodruff key slot splay out and the result is a noticeable vibration. I wasn't aware of this torque setting and mine is showing signs of looseness.
I will put this in The Star to inform others like me who should, but don't read the manual.
Chris

4
The Star and Garter / Re: oil feed/return O rings
« on: 08 June, 2018, 11:58:03 »
Why mess about with unknown sellers on ebay? All of the dealers who advertise in The Star sell these for pence. I needed some recently, called Andy at Kidderminster Motorcycles and they arrived with the postman the next day.
Just a thought!
Chris

5
Twins / Re: Oil tank breather leaking oil
« on: 04 June, 2018, 11:20:46 »
Crofty, are you sure its the tank vent? The Oil tank vent is under the main spine near the headstock. If it is coming out of there its because you have over filled it and when you brake, going down a steep hill, the oil can move forward as far as that and spill out but it has to travel a long way. The correct level should be about 3" below the base of the filler cap receptacle. Have you got a dipstick? They are available from dealers and a necessity in my opinion, as you cant see the oil level from above the filler. If you can see the oil, its got too much in it.
If you are blowing oil out of the engine breather, then that will deposit itself nicely on the oil tank base fabricated platform at the bottom of the frame and drips onto the gutter when stopped and on the side stand. Much to the amusement of the modern bikers at the cafe of course.

6
Twins / Re: Is it charging A65
« on: 02 June, 2018, 12:24:34 »
If you have a multimeter switch it to voltage and clip to the battery. Should show 12.5 v as the Battery is new and charged up. Start the engine and rev to 3000-3500 revs and the voltage should go up to  around 14.5v . Switch the lights on and it should still peak at 14.5v. If i goes higher then the zenor is suspect. If it doesnt get there then check the alternator connections.
Aternatively there are cheap Draper battery checking gizmos that have a string of led's which light up as the voltage increases.

7
Twins / Re: A65 Partslist
« on: 01 June, 2018, 12:55:18 »
Lebreud, The washers are 3/16"dia so the best option is a 5mm Dowty washer. You could use Fibre, copper or Aluminium, whichever is your preference.

8
Twins / Re: Removing plunger A10 head races
« on: 30 May, 2018, 12:27:02 »
Hi Jackson,
If you have a spare LH side bicycle crank cup. (the adjustable one) that is the same size. Just screw that in and knock them out with a bar from the other end. If you haven't got one, old style cycle shops sell complete kits for less than a tenner.

9
Twins / Re: 72 Rocker Cover Studs A65
« on: 30 May, 2018, 12:23:37 »
One of the hazards of old bikes I'm afraid. Whichever previous owner did this probably had access to metric helicoils so used them. Look on the bright side, at least they have good threads in the holes. So many of the threads I have come across lately on my two projects have been idiots screwing BSF nuts on Cycle Thread studs taking the thread with it as it goes.

10
The Star and Garter / Re: amal carburettor
« on: 29 May, 2018, 18:15:28 »
Yes! Its the same stuff.

11
The Star and Garter / Re: amal carburettor
« on: 29 May, 2018, 11:13:24 »
360 degrees.
For what its worth, I always fit a new slide. They cost about 20 but you usually find that the bore is distorted and they wont go in. As such I ease the bore straight with one of those centrifugal brake cylinder honing stones in the electric drill until the slide goes up and down freely ALL THE WAY as they can stick open if not right. Scary!!!
Hope this helps
Chris

12
Twins / Re: 72 Rocker Cover Studs A65
« on: 28 May, 2018, 13:04:52 »
I've always used set screws. The stud idea goes back to pre oil in frame days when there was plenty of room above the head to get the cover over the studs. As you will know the OIF frame leaves little space there as the head steady bolts onto the cover.

13
Twins / Re: A65 '66 Spitfire Gearbox main bearing
« on: 24 May, 2018, 17:24:01 »
Thanks Julian and a good price too. I'll order one for the A50
Regards
Chris

14
Twins / Re: A65 '66 Spitfire Gearbox main bearing
« on: 24 May, 2018, 14:24:25 »
I had a problem with obtaining the drive side bearing many years ago! From memory, the standard RLS9 bearing has a 1.1/8" bore and the shaft is 1.1/4". SRM sold the correct one but at that time cost 42. In the end there was no discernible noise coming from this bearing when I spun it in my fingers so I refitted it. However, if you find one the correct size from a bearing supplier, let me know the price as I will probably replace all the bearings on my Royal Star when I have the gearbox out this winter. (It does tend to sing to me in second and third gear).
Chris

15
The Star and Garter / Re: MOT changes for historical vehicles
« on: 22 May, 2018, 17:54:00 »
Looks like Category 'r'

(GB only) A vehicle other than a public service
vehicle registered or manufactured 40 years
ago and which has not been substantially
changed in the last 30 years.

Funny how it's so far down the list. I would have thought this would be at the top but hey ho!
Chris

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