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Twins / Re: Pre OIF A65 Oil Tank Breather
« on: 21 February, 2021, 17:22:25 »
Back in 1963, where I grew up, in the industrial midlands, there was a lot more nasty stuff in the soil to worry about than old engine oil. Cadmium was a favourite in certain parts of my home town. A colleague was told to destroy all the vegetables he had grown one year and to stick to other plants from then on.

The Star and Garter / Chris Vincent has sadly passed away
« on: 20 February, 2021, 17:22:42 »
It's reported in MCN on line today that Chris Vincent, the well known BSA champion A65 side car racer has died at the age of 86.

Our deepest sympathies go out to his family and friends.

Twins / Re: Pre OIF A65 Oil Tank Breather
« on: 20 February, 2021, 17:16:51 »
I always stick a pipe on and point to downwards to the ground. It's likely only mist will come out but that can build up a mess around the battery area etc, over time.

Twins / Re: Wiring harness
« on: 20 February, 2021, 17:14:43 »
I tend to use the original harness and replace wires that have cracked or melted insulation etc. I also replace the bullets that are hanging on strands of wire and look like they are about to give up the ghost. I always by the wire and bits from Vehicle Wiring Products and use fresh sleeving when necessary. They do all the colours you need and the correct gauge wires etc.
I think the reason why all manufacturers used the same colour coded wires was probably down to Lucas who supplied most of the equipment to all of them and they probably led the way on standardisation.

The Star and Garter / Re: Dam Ethanol
« on: 07 February, 2021, 12:38:30 »
Hear Hear, Dave!

Singles / Re: B25 Oil drainage from tank to engine
« on: 03 February, 2021, 11:02:03 »
More likely it had wet sumped as the contents of the tank will fill up the crankcase and outer timing cover up to just above the gearchange shaft. My B25SS did this and whilst on the sidestand, tilted over to the left it was OK. When I fitted a centre stand and it was upright, it leaked.
Reason for mine was a previous owner forgot (or deliberately) left out the ball and spring check valve so there was nothing stopping the flow past the pump. Big benefit was it kept the bottom end nicely lubed during 3 years of storage.
Definitely worth checking aforementioned valve, easy to get at and fix.

Good luck!

Singles / Re: bsa fs
« on: 03 February, 2021, 10:55:09 »
I would recommend you get hold of copies of the Rupert Ratio Unit Single Manuals. The second one covers everything except the engine. It goes into detail on all models pointing out the differences and what was fitted as standard etc. plus lots of tips and improvements to make it from a great bike to a brilliant bike!

Twins / Re: The conical hub front brake, advice required
« on: 01 February, 2021, 11:35:53 »
Hi Nigel,
Having had many years of experience with this brake, there are a few things to consider/do. I'm assuming that it's currently set up with the long spring along the cable between the arms etc.

1. Take the brake cable off completely and give it a good oiling, you will probably see lots of rust swilling out of the end of the bottom part of the cable. It's amazing what power a less than free cable will take away from the actual brake.

2. Whilst the cable is soaking and before replacing it, adjust the snail cams with the arms free. Up tight and one click back.

3. Attach the cable and try again.

4. If no change, time to take the wheel out and strip it all down. I would recommend reline or new shoes at this stage as modern friction material with make an improvement - remember to do this in the open air as the old linings and the drum will probably contain asbestos.

5. When replacing the wheel into the forks, make sure you do it to the instructions in the handbook i.e. Brake Torque Stud tight in the fork slider with correct washer first before fitting the axle end caps which you should tighten up evenly. (Check the end caps for any cracks whilst they're off). see attachment

Let us all know how you get on.

Twins / Re: Kick starting a 1971 OIF A65.
« on: 31 January, 2021, 12:40:24 »
Due to the position of the kickstart pivot brackets welded to the crossmember under the gearbox, the excessive strain put on it when kickstarted has been known to break the crossmember welds to the frame. The giveaways are when on the centrestand the bike leans to one side or both tyres touch the floor.

Being realistic, I think it depends on how heavy you are and how you kickstart it. Unless you're one of these 20 stone blokes who feel the  need to jump on the kickstart from a great height then I wouldn't worry. The engine turns over quite easily without the need to apply excessive weight from the sky. On my previous OIF Thunderbolt, it would start with a gentle prod -most of the time.

Hope this helps

Twins / Re: Best company for mudguards
« on: 25 January, 2021, 15:56:08 »
Try Autocycle Engineering in Dudley 01384 253030. They used to make them from the same tooling the the supplier to BSA used to manufacture them. This company was Speedwell Gear Case Ltd and Chris Williams at Autocycle bought the tooling and machines from them many years ago when they were closing down, saving all that from the breakers yard. As yours will be chrome plated, rest assured they also use a local, top quality Chrome Platers so quality will be second to none.
Last year, Autocycle sold that part of their business to TriCor Andy who now manufactures and markets the mudguards under the old 'Speedwell' name. However, when I spoke to Chris a couple of months ago he still had stocks of the A65 guards and will continue to sell them going forward, so they are worth trying for a quote.

Twins / Re: Removing oil pump A50
« on: 22 January, 2021, 14:18:16 »
Its been a while since I removed one that was held by studs but from memory, I removed the worm wheel nuts and turned the crank as I tugged at the pump. I cant remember which way to turn the crank but you will soon find out.

Hope that helps


Twins / Re: Refitting engine
« on: 21 January, 2021, 17:43:11 »
I asked a former apprentice at Armoury Rd how they used to do it at the works. He wasn't sure but remembers there being a very thick rope hanging down.
My guess is the engine would be complete so full weight and they put the rope around the bottom of the barrels. They must have used a hoist and got it to the right height and pitch (leaning forward) and swung it into place. Bearing in mind they were doing this day in, day out, they would soon get expert at it.

Twins / Re: Petrol tank color scheme, chrome /paint ?
« on: 19 January, 2021, 16:58:16 »
If you click on the 'Catalogues' tile on the home page on this site you will see the catalogue images for all models and years. the GF has a Chrome Tank side panels and the metal badges. It also had swinging arm suspension from 1955.
Hope that helps.

The Star and Garter / Re: What a shame
« on: 19 January, 2021, 16:51:34 »
I did enquire of the DVLA with that very question and at the time, they said no.

I had a neighbour who changed his car every three months. Every time he got a new (used) one it was the best thing since sliced bread until the next one came along of course. Anyway, he used the same cherished no. for all of them, so I think the DVLA are happy to take the 80 charge every time you do it.


The Star and Garter / Re: What a shame
« on: 19 January, 2021, 11:43:33 »
 It used to be the rule that the vehicle had to be taxed, mot'd and insured for the road before you could have the registration no. put on retention. Since the introduction of Historic Vehicle status and no MOT required, it's opened up this kind of sharp practice.

I took my V5C for my 1955 Ariel Red Hunter to the post office to get the V5C updated to Historic Vehicle. The Postmaster zapped the bar code and before I knew it, it was updated, licenced and road legal. (It was of course on my Classic Insurance policy). He said, there you are. V5C updated, taxed etc. so you can continue riding it while they process and send you the updated V5C!
Only problem was, it was still in bits in my garage and loft so that may have been a bit difficult.

So, all that purchaser needed to do was put it on his classic insurance and DVLA would be happy to put on retention for him to sell the number.

By the way, the reg. no for my Ariel ASX 95 has been valued as being worth about half the value of the bike. As far as I'm concerned it will stay with the bike as long as I have it and I hope if I sell it on, the next owner will keep it too.

There are more important things in life than money!

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