Author Topic: Oil control Valves and Ignition coils  (Read 552 times)

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Mike Farmer

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Oil control Valves and Ignition coils
« on: 29 April, 2017, 13:41:48 »
Hi all.

Just a couple of general questions.

Firstly whats the general feelings, thoughts or experience about the use of inline valves to overcome the dreaded down drain.
 Associated with this: - when I started my A50 yesterday I got a lot of oil spill. My fault I know for not checking and maybe draining first.
How does the oil actually escape. I've been associated with this problem for years and never really considered it.

Secondly. I just read and understand not to overtighten slack ignition coil brackets. Now, the same source says to pack with rubber rather than either overtighten or use a metal packer. However somewhere in the back of my mind something says that you need metal to metal contact to ensure a good circuit. I've no idea where that came from so any enlightenment would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Mike ::) ::)

JulianS

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Re: Oil control Valves and Ignition coils
« Reply #1 on: 29 April, 2017, 14:12:37 »
The oil seeps through worn oil pump gears and worn and distorted oil pump bodies, through a poorly sealed joint between oil pump and crankcase and past the non return valve behind the pump which is not seating properly.

I used a valve in feed line on my A10 for a while but removed it when I renewed the pump.

The ignition coil body does not need to earth though its metal casing, it is not part of the electrical circuit.

Mike Farmer

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Re: Oil control Valves and Ignition coils
« Reply #2 on: 29 April, 2017, 16:37:19 »
Hi Julian

Thanks for that I understand the overall problem area vv the pump seats etc. What I don't really understand is where it actually escapes from when it comes out of the engine from the engine, And for the info about the coils. I guess over the years you pick up all sorts of misleading info. I take it that your in valve didn't cause any problem???

Mike :) :)

Bess

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Re: Oil control Valves and Ignition coils
« Reply #3 on: 29 April, 2017, 16:45:18 »
Hi Mike,
              The crankcase breathes through a timed breather disc at the end of the hollow camshaft and exits through a tube above the final drive sprocket.
« Last Edit: 29 April, 2017, 16:50:38 by Bess »

JulianS

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Re: Oil control Valves and Ignition coils
« Reply #4 on: 29 April, 2017, 17:34:32 »
Mike

The valve caused me no problems.

I used it for about 12 months before sorting the wet sumping with new pump.

Mike Farmer

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Re: Oil control Valves and Ignition coils
« Reply #5 on: 29 April, 2017, 18:20:39 »
Hi

Thanks to you both. I guessed the point about the oil spillage point and am glad that I was correct. My fear of course was a B++++ed gasket. Thanks again for info on Valve. Its either that or a tap??????

Mike

Editor

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Re: Oil control Valves and Ignition coils
« Reply #6 on: 30 April, 2017, 13:00:34 »
Mike, by all means buy an inline check valve if you wish, Polly Palmer still sells them for around 40, but first I would re seat the ball valve that is behind the Oil Pump and fit a new ball 1/4" dia and spring part no. 68-353 and see how it goes. The spring does weaken as time goes on. I don't get any wet sumping on my A65 or A50 and this is after being laid up for three months or more. 
Re the where do the oil in the crankcases come from, well the timed breather mostly but also, anywhere else it can find a way, via the main bearings into the timing side cover and the chaincase as it blows past the seal. It all depends on how much is in there.
Hope this helps
Chris
 

Mike Farmer

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Re: Oil control Valves and Ignition coils
« Reply #7 on: 30 April, 2017, 19:18:13 »
Hi

The spring etc was replaced when the engine was rebuilt last year. It used to happen on previous A65 but not a problem when in use. So I shall prob put one in or maybe a tap----yep I'm aware of the major pitfall with thatIf I go that way I'll maybe put an ignition fail safe on it.. Don't know yet.  I remember having a tap on the down pipe of an old 350 Ariel in the mid fifties--- but I don't remember if it was because of the same prob. In fact I don't remember much about it except that I "ditched" it on the seventh day of ownership. Bent the fork shafts--put em in a fly press-- sorta straight-- back on bike--Ok for a couple of years.

Anyway many thanks to you and all for your kind input