Recent Posts

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The Star and Garter / Re: Correcting DVLA Error - Opening a Can of Worms?
« Last post by griffo on 18 November, 2017, 20:56:22 »
Yes the bultaco is now registered.. Got it right in the end. Had a telephone call to Swansea to a most helpful chap. Discussed the case and told me where to forward the paperwork to and hey presto the jobs a gud-un... anybody want to but a 250cc Bultaco trials bike ?   Griff
The Star and Garter / Re: Military contract number
« Last post by DEAN SOUTHALL on 18 November, 2017, 19:50:58 »
The Star and Garter / Re: Military contract number
« Last post by Mike Farmer on 18 November, 2017, 19:12:32 »

What year.

Mike 8)
The Star and Garter / Any Fertan or Tapox users out there?
« Last post by Greybeard on 18 November, 2017, 19:11:48 »
I've been cleaning the tank of my AJS M31DL of its surfeit of decaying Petseal over the last few weeks - there was a 1/2 inch thick slab of the damn stuff in the bottom of the tank  :evil: which took nearly 3 weeks of attack by Sealeater to make it let go its hold from around the tank front mounting.
Previously I have used Tank Care products - good at stripping out Petseal and clearing any rust etc, but very temperature dependent when it comes to applying the final coating. After doing the Matchless G80 tank about 3 years ago I didn't bother using the 2nd kit I bought - it's still on the shelf.
I've used POR15 on several other tanks which has been very effective and easy to apply. I use a combination of caustic soda then phosphoric acid to clean and de-rust the tanks prior to the final coating and have had excellent results.
For this tank I thought I'd give Tapox a go as it gets good reviews and I was able to pick up enough to do two 4 gallon tanks for about the same price as one tin of POR15.
The instructions recommended the use of Fertan to treat any rust so I thought 'In for a penny etc' and got some. All went well until it came to rinsing the tank out after 24hrs. Rather than having a nice treated surface I found that the tank was left coated in a fairly dense, and poorly adhering black deposit of excess Fertan. The coating dislodges very easily with a gentle prod but won't rinse off. As a result I really don't feel inclined to put Tapox on top of it as it seems destined to fail.
Ive tried the helpline and the chap suggested filling the tank with hot water and letting it stand for about 5 hours - next to no effect  :(
Has anyone else had the same issue and found a way of removing the fertan? I'm still waiting for a reply from the importers.

Singles / Re: C15T crankcase breather oil leak - but only some times!
« Last post by JulianS on 18 November, 2017, 18:57:32 »
That will not solve your problem. The oil in the return is aerated and will settle and that pipe cannot draw oil from the tank.

Wet sumping is either a poor scavenge side of pump/blockage in return  and/or leaking down the feed side either through the pump joints or gears or the non return ball valve in the system - theball and spring reatined by the grub screw you se by the main bearing bush inside thecrankcase..

The Star and Garter / Military contract number
« Last post by Mark Barkntrunk on 18 November, 2017, 18:47:28 »
Hi does anyone know how I can find out what the military contract number was for my WDM20?
Singles / Re: C15T crankcase breather oil leak - but only some times!
« Last post by cee-b on 18 November, 2017, 16:57:19 »
The oil pump is a recently replaced recon item so I can't really get improvement there.

I have noticed that the level in the scavenge pipe (I have clear pipes) drops by around 5"over the course of a couple of days, so it is certainly leaking back through the scavenge side of the pump.

I'll put an NRV in the scavenge line to prevent that, but am not convinced that putting any restriction in the supply line is a great idea. I'll just buy Mrs B a replacement for the baking tray I've just nicked out of her range to park under the sump - problem solved (ish)  ::)

Thanks for all the help & advice guys.
Singles / Re: C15T crankcase breather oil leak - but only some times!
« Last post by JulianS on 18 November, 2017, 14:36:49 »
That is a lot for a dry sump engine. My A10 drains about 100 ml after standing overnight.

I always suspect the oil pump to crankcase joint and the condition of the pump. If it is worn then no hope of stopping it without soe external valve.

In the past I have used a valve like Mike to good effect. You just need to make sure the oil pipe both sides is charged with oil and there is no airlock in the feed side, which will stop oil feed.

Dot like taps too much risk of forgetting to turn them back on and the risk of an airlock in the system .
Singles / Re: C15T crankcase breather oil leak - but only some times!
« Last post by Mike Farmer on 18 November, 2017, 13:57:47 »

I had a wet sumping problem on my A50. I put in any anti wet sumping valve. 35 ish and a fairly easy job.  No more wet sumping.

I was against the idea to start with, but when I mentioned it here, several guys gave me positive results so I went for it.

It easy to see that it is working by watching the return pipe in the tank.

Worth a thought???

Twins / Re: A65T Fork Slider Length
« Last post by Bess on 17 November, 2017, 18:56:27 »
    To put your mind at rest the spindle hole in the sliders is not bored at 90 degrees. See attached images, the angle I have been told is 89 degrees (thank-you, John Phelan).

I was going to buy a set with a shallow counter-bore but was told the normal fork sliders were also used on some "A" group twins before the change (97-3641 & 97-3645, 1969 and before shown in the attached images and 97-3933 & 97-3934, 1969 and after, shown in your images). So I won't be changing mine, saving some cash for other projects.

This angle will bring the sliders inline when the wheel is fitted. No need to add shims or alter the arrangement, it is as BSA intended. It also tilts the fork slider brake lug into the brake plate.

The poor chap in the photos actually machind his sliders to 90 degrees and fitted caps of equal length.

Best wishes...
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