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Messages - JulianS

Pages: 1 ... 33 34 [35] 36 37 ... 42
511
Twins / Re: Speedometer
« on: 27 March, 2017, 16:14:31 »
Sounds like the worm is worn.

512
Singles / Re: Wheel hubs
« on: 27 March, 2017, 09:33:35 »
C15 full width hubs are cast iron. The one described as alloy is probably a mistake by the seller.

513
Twins / Re: Speedometer
« on: 27 March, 2017, 09:31:18 »
Check condition of cable, even if new, disconnect from speedo head and observe cable end as you revolve the rear wheel by hand. It should spin true and not wobble from side to side too much. Check cable properly engages at bothe ends. Make sure cable not crushed and does not have very tight bends. Check condition of inner by withdrawing it. Often speedo problems are cable problems.

The actual drive from gearbox is quite robust but could be damaged. Only way is to check the teeth.

Could easily be the speedo.

514
Twins / Re: A65l ignition warning light
« on: 23 March, 2017, 11:16:16 »
John

Later bikes, late 1960s, had a combined ignition/oil warning light, which would go out when pressure at oil pressure switch reached set pressure.

515
Twins / Re: Speedo drive into gearbox
« on: 22 March, 2017, 10:23:50 »
I usually just check when changing engine oil and so far have had no noticable oil in the cable, just the normal lubricating grease.


516
Twins / Re: Speedo drive into gearbox
« on: 21 March, 2017, 18:15:29 »
The O ring on the driven gear does help but it is a bit flimsy.

I fitted one on my A10 but it did not entirely cure the leak hence the use of the heatshrink.

So far have not had oil in speedo head and, being aware that it is a possibility I remove the inner and check it occasionally.

New old stock O ring shaft and bush shown in my lower photo.

Looks like the factory tried to solve the leak by tightening tolerences

517
Twins / Re: Speedo drive into gearbox
« on: 20 March, 2017, 22:05:26 »
Malcolm

Thank you.

I hope it helps.

If you need to take it out its best tackled after removing the outer cover from the gearbox, especially when putting the bush and driven gear back in.

If its just the oil leaking from the cable ferrule then that can be sorted by use of a bit of 10mm heat shrink cable sleeve. Disconnect the speedo cable from gearbox. Slide the sleeve nut back along the cable.Take about 30 mm of heat shrink and slide it on to the cable covering the join between cable and ferrule but the only bit of ferrule to cover is the crimped part. Shrink it tight over the join by your chosen heat source then carefully slide the nut back into position - its a bit tight and you need to be careful not to damage the sleeve but it can be done. I use a squirt of WD40 to help.

That should stop oil dripping from the cable.

518
Twins / Re: Speedo drive into gearbox
« on: 20 March, 2017, 19:08:25 »
The "nipple" will be either brass or zinc alloy it is called a bush. It is a tight fit in the case and is held in position by the screw indicated in the first photo.

If its brass there is probaly a nut and fibre washer on the threaded end to seal. If zinc alloy there will be an internal o ring.

Usually the leak is oil seeping between the bush and the speedo driven gear shaft - the bit into which the cable inner fits. It then drips out of the cable where the ferrule is crimped to the cable.

Second photo shows brass bush and third the zinc alloy version. The groove for o ring can be seen closed threaded end.

To remove bush first remove the retaining screw and use an old speedo cable screwed on to pull it out. A bit of heat may assist but usually its not too tight and will either pull out or tap off with a rubber mallet.

519
Twins / Re: A65 - Front wheel spindle
« on: 20 March, 2017, 11:28:43 »
I have looked at 1969 fork parts for A65, B25, A75 and T120. The complete forks are different for all 4.

The the last 3 have the same part numbers for fork bottoms and end caps and the end caps are not handed, the same for each bottom.

The first 2 have the same fork legs and the last 2 have the same legs but different to the first 2,

They all have different yokes.

They all have the same shuttle valve. They all have the same wheel spindle but the A75 is showing the later part number.

The A65 bottoms are unique as are the end caps which are handed.

All change for 1970 though!! Different part number have not looked at them all but the last 3 all share the same fork bottoms but it looks like they are interchangable with the 1969 ones (Triumph service bulletin 362) , A65 has different parts but same handed end caps. Dont know if they interchange.

I suspect the difference is somewhere in the spindle anchorage at bottom of forks.

It must have been quite interesting managing a BSA dealer parts department.

Have you seen this thread?

http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=408044

520
Twins / Re: A65 - Front wheel spindle
« on: 19 March, 2017, 16:45:32 »
Not sure if identical but they are interchangable according to he BSA master price list from 1970 (first photo).

There are a number of different versions of the shuttlevalve forks  BSA (between models)and Triumph (with different versions with 6 1/2 and 6 3/4 inch centre forks and different length pegs to suit ) all looking similar. The A twins version has apparently got an identifying counter bore on the bottoms and the end caps.  See second photo.

521
Twins / Re: Adjusting a TLS brake
« on: 19 March, 2017, 12:10:23 »
I use the third arm method - with the assistance of my Wife.

The Pitmans book of BSA twin suggests disconnect the tie rod apply the brake handle bar lever and keep it in position with an elastic band. Then apply the rear lever with spanner and adjust the tie rod.

The factory manual procedure is in the photos but you need to deal with the effect of the return spring on front lever.

having adjusted the tie rod dont alter it after linings have bedded in.

522
Twins / Re: A65 - Front wheel spindle
« on: 19 March, 2017, 11:50:46 »
Have got 1968 damper rod forks and wheel on my A10 but fitted with the 1969 brake plate. Forks with 6 3/4 inch centres.

Photo shows how much engagement of peg into brake plate I get.

The spindle 37 1641 is the one for 1968. It is a Triumph part for Triumph forks with centres 6 1/2 inches, but listed for the 1968 BSA. takes a 3/4 cycle nut.

My spindle is 7 1/4 long. There is a gap between spindle end and fork clamp as seen in second photo.

The spindle 37 2057 is for the 1969 shuttlevalve forks and measures 7 1/2 inches long. Dont know about the position of the shoulders. takes a 3/4 UNF nut.

523
Twins / Re: Help with engine number
« on: 18 March, 2017, 18:25:06 »
A65D decodes as a Lightning Rocket and 46*9 indicates its from the 1965 season. Probably exported.

You can see for yourself on the BSAOC website under "machine dating"

524
Twins / Re: Screw size please
« on: 17 March, 2017, 20:06:57 »
The screw is part 2 -79. You can see it as 48 on plate 12 of the 1958/59 parts book.

Below is also from the parts book and gives the dimensions of the screw. Note 1/4 CEI is interchangable with 1/4 BSF.

525
Twins / Re: Lack of adjustment on carb air screw
« on: 17 March, 2017, 18:39:15 »
John

Sounds like a blocked or partially blocked  pilot bush.

This from Amal may be useful;

http://amalcarb.co.uk/rebuilding-mark-1-concentric-carburetter

You may need to remove the crud in the bush using the N0 78 drill they mention in the text.

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