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Messages - JulianS

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Some  thoughts:

The ball should be 7/32 inch diameter - you could measure the bore of the housing to check its the right one. New housing and balls  are cheap enough.

With the plates out does the hub rotate with minimal drag on the chainwheel - if not then could be a problem with the thrust washer causing the drag and hence crunching.

Does the pressure plate lift cleanly, if not adjust the spring screws until it does. SRM type alloy plates give more even and clean lift in my experience.

With a cable at limit of adjustment I would shorten length of inner  cable by moving one of the nipples to allow adjustment of length on cable adjuster.

Handlebar  levers originally came with pivot to nipple centres of either 7/8 inch or 1 1/16 inch. The former give lighter more progressive movement with less lift at the clutch and the later give heavier less progressive movement but with more lift at the clutch.

Singles / Re: C15 date
« on: 09 May, 2017, 11:07:11 »
You can date the bike on the BSAOC website;

You will see that the frame is from the 1961 season but the engine is earlier and comes from the 1959 season.

Twins / Re: Primary chaincase to crank case assembly
« on: 09 May, 2017, 09:36:51 »
It is crankcase - gasket - steel spacer - gasket - primary chaincase.

So 2 gaskets 1 steel spacer.

The earlier swinging arm parts books dont agree, the 1954/55 saying only a gasket and the 1956/57 and 1958/59 sayig 1 gasket 1 steel spacer.

What logical reason would there be to have one metal to metal (and probably leaky) joint in that sandwich? I suspect an error in the book.

The 1960/63 parts book shows 2 gaskets and 1 spacer and is shown below.

Twins / Re: Smoking
« on: 08 May, 2017, 09:00:06 »
A reconditioned engine will take time for the new parts to bed in properly.

New rings can take several hundred miles.

Singles / Re: Ammeter
« on: 07 May, 2017, 18:52:37 »
The modern Lucas made ones work well enough.

Twins / Re: A65 Engine rebuild
« on: 06 May, 2017, 11:58:04 »
These would be a must for me;

Billet conrods

New flywheel bolts (dont ask - had one let go and smash crankcase on A10, cost a small fortune to put right)

Hex sludge trap plug

I would consider;

Dural valve top collars and the best valve springs I could find and shim to correct fitted length (dont think some of the commonly sold ones are as good as they could be)

Tappet adjusters for allen key.

Good luck

The Star and Garter / Re: HELP C15 seat
« on: 05 May, 2017, 17:01:09 »
Plan view of C15 frame from factory servcie sheet 710X below, you can see the offset.

It is worth doing a internet seach on BSA C15 seat and compare the images with what you have, a solution may then be apparent.

Image from a 1966 magazine road test.

The Star and Garter / Re: HELP C15 seat
« on: 05 May, 2017, 14:17:07 »
You know the plan view of the rear section is not symetrical?

Twins / Re: A10 gearbox problem
« on: 05 May, 2017, 12:04:27 »
The spindle on my A10 has about 8 thou movement in and out. Shims between surfaces which have movement between them may break up. Shims usually used between surfaces with no relative movement. You could press the outer bush carefull inwards a little if you think the movement is too great.

You can check the indexing by just removing the outer cover.

You can dismantle the box leaving the main case in situ. You can leave the sprocket and rear chain attached.

Remove primary chaincase and clutch, the outer cover then release the single screw holding the inner cover and slide the inner cover out complete with the mainshaft and its fixed gear.

Just clean and examine everything carefully. You may find some wear to the layshaft bush in main case. Post photos and someone may be able to give an opinion as to condition.

The 2 layshaft gears which engage when second gear selected are shown in the photo. The lower gear in photo slides onto the fixed gear to engage.

Do you have a manual or factory service sheet coverig the gearbox?

The Star and Garter / Re: HELP C15 seat
« on: 05 May, 2017, 10:04:06 »
I think Bantam seat brackets are different to C15, the front welded on one sticks out at the front and the C15 does not.

The bolt on brackets are also different.

BSA listed the same seat cover for both bikes.

From Youtube, link to a road seafety film  made in 1955 by Liverpool dealer Vic Horseman includes a lot of shots of BSA motorcycles in contemporary settings.

There is a part 2 which you can also find on Youtube.

Twins / Re: A10 gearbox problem
« on: 04 May, 2017, 15:06:34 »
The dots need to line up as in the photo, when box in neutral.

Also check the quadrant and the claw on gear selector for wear. Too worn and they wont engage properly and move the cam plate. Similar can happen if there is too much clearance between quadrant and claw when assembled, this can happen sometimes if there is too much loat on the gear change spindle and/or too thick a gasket used between inner and outer box covers.

Singles / Re: Ammeter
« on: 04 May, 2017, 11:38:25 »
This is what a new old stock one looks like.

Note the needle shape , which is different to the new Lucas production ones I have seen. They also seem to have a scale 8 -8 or 12 - 12 .

Ammeters have a hard life due to vibrations and it is not unusual to find that they have been replaced over the years.

You have a choice of new old stock, which can get expensive, used which are always a gamble because of unknown condition or modern repro.

Twins / Re: Spark plugs
« on: 03 May, 2017, 17:10:53 »
N4 was listed up to 1968 then  N3/NC3.

But NC3 should be OK. Its just a slightly colder plug.

If the electrode or insulation is breaking down then its getting much too hot and there is a problem which needs sorting - over advanced timing or too weak mixture being possibilities.

Singles / Re: Ameter
« on: 03 May, 2017, 09:34:29 »
Easily. Swop over the leads and see what happens.

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