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Messages - JulianS

Pages: 1 ... 28 29 [30] 31 32
436
Pre War / Re: Replacing Sloper fork spring
« on: 14 February, 2017, 20:58:35 »
The photo is from The Book of the BSA by F J Camm, 1935 edition.

Not much information but hopefully it will point you in the right direction.

437
Twins / Re: A10 rocker cover banjo oil feed union bolts
« on: 14 February, 2017, 13:10:19 »
The twins had 2 the same 65 317.

65 318 was the one with larger feed hole which went on the exhaust rocker of the Gold Star single.

438
The Star and Garter / Re: Thread gauges
« on: 13 February, 2017, 20:40:55 »
Almost forgot - oil pipe petrol pipe and petrol tap threads are BSP thread.

439
The Star and Garter / Re: Thread gauges
« on: 13 February, 2017, 20:13:47 »
These are some of the common ones.

Lots of British standard cycle in 26 tpi up to 3/8 diameter and 26 tpi and 20 tpi over 3/8.

Some BSF - notably the cylinder head bolts  and crankshaft sludge trap. Lucas stuff usually BSF and BA.

Whitworth coarse usually for threads in alloy casings.

The pressure relief valve is unusual - it is 7/8 x 16tpi UNS (Unified National Special)

The thread on the speedo head cable connection is metric 12 mm x 1 mm pitch. ( Gearbox end is BSCy)


440
Pre War / Re: Colour code for BSA sloper maroon
« on: 13 February, 2017, 19:20:49 »
The photo is from the 1930 brochure and shows the available tank colours, which included a maroon option for an extra 1.

I thought that all the other painted parts were in black.

441
Twins / Re: Refurbish old brake plate
« on: 13 February, 2017, 13:22:06 »
The edges were polished alloy rather than chrome. They will polish up very nicely.

442
Twins / Re: Brake plate removal
« on: 13 February, 2017, 11:55:47 »
See the little pressed rectangle by the spoke in photo, there are a number of these around the edge of the coverplate, they just spring over edge of hub with some pressure.

To get it off I gently tap the edge of the plate from the brake side of the hub using an aluminium drift.

Some pattern cover plates use different indentations around the edge which still spring over and come off the same way.

443
Twins / Re: Brake plate removal
« on: 13 February, 2017, 11:19:35 »
It should just lift off once the nut is removed but there is probably a bit of muck or corrosion holding it.

Try moving the brake lever as you pull the plate.

If that does not move it then with nut removed the spindle will move inwards a bit so gently tap the brake plate end of spindle and it should free off. the circlip only holds the bearing cap and bearing in place and does not effect brake plate removal.

Photo shows cross section of the hubs.

444
Twins / Re: A10 Head id
« on: 12 February, 2017, 14:42:31 »
It is an A10 head as fitted from 1954 til 1959.

67 1066 is the number for the basic casting of the head. The head with fixed fittings (guides) is 67 1065.

Fairly common BSA numbering system - for instance the rev counter inner timing cover is casting number 42 0154 but the finished item is listed as 42 0153 and the alloy head casting number 67 1549 is part 67 1548 with fixed fittings.


445
Pre War / Re: Sloper brake problem
« on: 11 February, 2017, 13:39:29 »
John

I dont think they were linked front and rear.

You could specify either a foot operated front brake (left toes)  or a hand operated front brake or a front brake with hand and foot operation, with rear operated by right foot.

Photo from 1929 catalogue.

446
Twins / Re: A10 rocker cover
« on: 10 February, 2017, 19:21:56 »
After 40 odd years trying this still presents me with a challenge.

It is probably the worst job to do on a preunit twin.

I dont think there is a foolproof way and I disgarded my pushrod comb years ago as it was quite useless.

The first issue is the limited space between the top frame tube and head can make it difficult to engage the four holding down studs into the holes in the head. This is worst with the alloy head 650s with long studs. The top inlet inspection cover stud was originally made with machined flats to ease its removal to increase the space.

Having overcome that obstacle I favour the elastic band method to hold the rockers in position. I put a bit of grease on the lower end of pushrods to hold them in the cam follower.

With an alloy head I cover the holes shown in the photo with a bit of tape, just incase the nut is dropped whilst fitting it, it can be a bit of a fiddle getting it out.

Fitting the sleeve nuts on the alloy head can also be a bit of a fiddle, getting the threads on the nut to catch on the stud.

 Having positioned the gasket and applied your chosen sealant, lower the box onto head and guide the pushrods into the rocker arms using your fingers. Sometimes the pushrods will be caught on the front edge of the inlet joint. Having fitted the pushrods, probably after several attempts, and avoiding force insert the four long bolts and gently tighten a bit and add the other bolt and the four nuts. You may need to rotate the engine to allow easy tightening.

Having finally tightened all the fasteners you can set the valve clearances.

If using thick modern gaskets, which might come in blue or orange or yellow materials, expect them to settle after a little use needing the fixings being retightened and clearances to be reset.

Keeping the oil in can also be a challenge but that is another tale.

447
Pre War / Re: Sloper brake problem
« on: 09 February, 2017, 14:20:55 »
Sounds like your front brake is a left toe operated option?

If yes then you could consider converting to either hand operated or the dual hand/foot operated option?

The significantly shorter cable from handle bar might help improve operation?

448
Singles / Re: B31 crankshaft/ cushdrive woes
« on: 09 February, 2017, 10:32:25 »
Worth speaking to some of the tooling specialists to try to identify your thread.

I got a number of taps and dies from Tracy Tools in Torquay 01803 328 603. Found them very helpful.

If making a nut then suggest you ensure the chosen steel is of sufficient tensile strength for the job.

449
Twins / Re: Float level on a 930 carburetor
« on: 09 February, 2017, 09:55:03 »
John

Its worth looking at this from Amal;


http://amalcarb.co.uk/optimising-mark-1-concentric-fuel-levels

450
Singles / Re: B31 Oil return
« on: 08 February, 2017, 13:11:22 »
It will return on the kickstart but might take a lot of kicks.

Suggest you check oil is reaching the engine by undoing the feed pipe at engine end.

If thats OK its a good idea to prime the pump by introducing some oil into the sump. A good 200ml or more is what I use on my A10. Unless you prime the pump then it will take a while to get oil there from the feed side of pump before it can return.  You should be able to prime by removing the tappet cover at base of cylinder and squirting oil in there and allowing it to drain into the sump.

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