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Messages - JulianS

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436
Singles / Re: C15 lighting switch
« on: 18 April, 2017, 09:27:01 »
These switches are essentially crimped together - the zinc alloy body will probably crack if you attempt to straighten it to dismantle or attempt to recrimp it on reassembly.

If you do attempt it I would suggest do it with switch in a plastic bag to contain the bits which may spring out when you open it up!

You could test its internal continuity, using the bike wiring diagram, before buying a new one.

437
Singles / Re: C15 ss Max speed
« on: 17 April, 2017, 17:06:43 »
I have no doubt that your current overall gearing is much to high for the power of your engine, max speed in top and third being the same means top is just an overdrive.

The manufacturer issued a service sheet which recommended a gearbox sprocket with 16 teeth as giving the best performance and you are using an 18 tooth sprocket .

The service sheet is attached below.

438
The Star and Garter / Re: South Derbyshire Facebook Page
« on: 17 April, 2017, 15:19:52 »
One for the Branch, if set up in its name, I would think?

439
Twins / Re: Oil pump
« on: 17 April, 2017, 14:45:49 »
The zinc bodies distort mainly due to pressure from the three mounting points. The oil chambers, the screw holes and  the spindle housing can get squashed a bit causing tightness. Many pumps work quite happily with this but the possibilty is reduced pressure.

You may be able to see a witness mark where it is tight inside but you need to be careful what you do  incase you cause a lose of pressure.

If the steel end cover is scored you can flatten it by lapping on a surface plate. I advise against lapping the body or cover to the body, or the spindle housing or spindle housing to the body because it will reduce lateral clearance of the gears and may make the pump even tighter.

I have not used an electric drill to "run in" an oil pump.

440
Twins / Re: Oil pump
« on: 17 April, 2017, 13:59:00 »
I presume it is a cast iron pump rather than the zinc alloy one (if its zinc alloy they are often found to be distorted)

There will be some drag when you turn the pump with thumb on worm on the driving spindle caused by the gears and the O ring, but with the spindle housing off it should turn with your thumb.

Sometime loosening the assembly screws allow it to turn freely indicating something is too tight inside.

There may be damage to the housing caused by the chipped teeth or spindle is too tight in the housing, either by diameter or by lack of lateral movement - the thrust washer which fits over the end may be too thick to allow your new spindle to rotate freely. You need a little end float.

441
Singles / Re: B40 new carb and timing necessary?
« on: 16 April, 2017, 22:36:34 »
Has he actually examined your bike?

If not then how does he know you will have those problems?

I would be sceptical.

If it does not run properly after the work you are doing, you can always consider a new carb and electronic ignition, they will not take long to fit.

442
Singles / Re: BSA C15G
« on: 12 April, 2017, 12:02:13 »
375/34 is a unique identification for a carb.

 The 375 was the smallest monobloc and was made with bore from 21/32 to 7/8 bore. So 1 1/16 would not have been a standard size bore for the 375.

1 1/16 bore would have been a 376, the next body size up, and probably a bit to big for a standard C15.

Are your sure of the measurement?

Some C15 scramblers and US spec models had a 1 1/16 bore 376 - one number listed being 376/304.

Below are monobloc dimensions from Amal lists.

443
Singles / Re: BSA C15G
« on: 12 April, 2017, 10:36:33 »
GC14 for the Sportsman is below some of the info may be of use.

444
Singles / Re: BSA C15G
« on: 12 April, 2017, 10:30:22 »
photo below is from the 1967 BSA data book and shows the carb settings for the C15G - the same as for previous season bikes.

The production run was only about 2400 machines and no parts book was issued.

The factory issued an unillustrated parts service bulletin for the Sportsman version, GC14, which was just an update of the previous seasons book. They may have issued a bulletin for the standard model but so far I have not found one.


446
Twins / Re: Gearbox squeal!
« on: 07 April, 2017, 13:37:43 »
The sleeve gear bushes are usually tight in the gear and I have never seen one spin over the years, however who knows.

If it was mine I would drain the box and seen how much oil and what else comes out.

If the oil was low and no other bits came out I would refill and try again.

The right amount of oil or any other bits and I would strip it.

447
Twins / Re: Gearbox squeal!
« on: 07 April, 2017, 12:30:04 »
Could be lubrication lacking after standing.

Reminded me of this C15 service sheet and a reported squeal. Though I do not suggest adding extra oil to the SR!

448
Singles / Re: M33 1955 - Starting Issues
« on: 03 April, 2017, 21:01:12 »
As you have replaced the mag I would also double check points and pickup and  that the ignition timing is correct - should be 3/8 inch before TDC mag set on full advance.

449
Singles / Re: M33 1955 - Starting Issues
« on: 03 April, 2017, 19:57:35 »
These engines are usually very easy starters.

More likely that the clutch is slipping rather than the kickstart.

Check that there is a little clearance between the clutch pushrod and the adjuster on the arm on the gearbox.

If it still slips you will need to strip the clutch and check the plates and springs.

Is the valve clearance set correctly? Are you using the exhaust lifter to ease the engine over compression before giving a good swing on th kickstart?

450
Singles / Re: Engine number
« on: 02 April, 2017, 18:56:55 »
It is an engine number.

C15GP decodes G as the best and last and most robust of the C15 engines with  improved main bearings and lubrication and the P indicates an engine fitted to a Police specification C15.

It would have been fitted to a frame with the same number.

The first C15G engines were produced in 1966.

Yours is a very late engine,  they ended around 2400,  and would be from 1967.

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