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Messages - JulianS

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1
Thanks very much, I have sent you a PM

Julian

2
Twins / A65 1963/1964/1965 full width back brake rods
« on: Today at 17:27:53 »
For the full width hub back brake 1963/1964/1965.

Can someone post  photos of the point where the short and long brake rods are joined by the little toggle plate, to include the bracket on the frame?

Thanks in advance.

3
Twins / Re: How to stop engine
« on: Today at 17:23:27 »
The red button needs to be connected to the central terminal of the mag end cover and the central terminal needs a brush inside to bear on the points retaining screw.

4
Singles / Re: B25.Starfire - Tachometer Question
« on: Today at 10:21:25 »
Phil

Not sure about your crankcase.

The 1970 engine would have had a pressure valve with enclosed spring and plunger and 2 parts, the outer hex being domed. Yours looks like the much simpler up to and including 1969 type which had a small diameter thread just one part plus a ball and spring.

Above your PRV looks like the poishing may be covering some weld repair caused by an engine blow up where the rod went into the cases - which happened to Starfires when thrashed by riders when they were new.

First photo is from the 1970 parts book.

Second from the 1969 book.

5
Singles / Re: B25.Starfire - Tachometer Question
« on: Today at 09:28:16 »
The engine decodes as May 1970 build,  E = May, D= 1970 season.

Quite late in the season,  so would have expected it to have the port for the drive, but who knows!

6
Singles / Re: B25.Starfire - Tachometer Question
« on: Today at 08:50:43 »
One of the new Smiths electronic tachos would do the job, look about the same as the magnetic original. No need for mechanical drive.

 http://shop.srmclassicbikes.com/product-category/smiths-genuine-instruments

7
Singles / Re: B25.Starfire - Tachometer Question
« on: 17 December, 2017, 22:38:22 »
There should be a little diamond shaped cover sealing the hole into which the drive spindle and its housing fits, on bikes suppled less a tachometer.

Maybe yours has the wrong cover fitted.

8
Twins / Re: 1962 Oil Tank level
« on: 17 December, 2017, 13:13:14 »
A65B is prefix for the Rocket model engine.

The model of your bike is dependent on frame, only a despatch  record check would tell if your bike was built as a Star or Rocket. The full width hub models, 1962-1965, frames were all prefixed A50.

9
Pre War / Re: 1932 Blue Star
« on: 14 December, 2017, 20:51:08 »
Parts book shows a left and a right brake pedal for 1932 BS.

I think the right pedal came with hand change.

The 1933 catalogue Blue Star page has some detail.

10
Singles / Re: C15 ammeter
« on: 14 December, 2017, 12:52:45 »
Little tabs around the chrome rim fold over and hold it in place, thats if it is a Lucas item.

The tabs do break off when they have been bent and straightened a few time.

11
Singles / Re: What do I have?
« on: 09 December, 2017, 18:09:05 »
Often called the "Clipper"

BB34A engines in CB34 frames.

First photo from 1957 catalogue.

Second photo is from Glass's motorcycle check book and shows start and finish frame numbers for the B34 competition model.

Last frame given CB34 634.

I will send you a PM, check under "My messages"


12
The Star and Garter / Re: Hepolite pistons
« on: 09 December, 2017, 12:23:33 »
Edges of the rings showed only partial contact, not bedded in,  after just over 1000 miles - changed the rings to NOS Brico which bedded in very quickly.

Link takes you to a bit more information about new hepolite;


https://burtonbikebits.net/pistons/

13
Singles / Re: Oval throttle valve C15
« on: 08 December, 2017, 16:26:41 »
Sounds like a new or a better used carb would be best option.

14
Singles / Re: C15 petrol tank tap
« on: 08 December, 2017, 13:34:21 »
You could just change the plunger which is what leaks?

15
Twins / Re: LED h/light conversion
« on: 08 December, 2017, 09:32:44 »
Experience with 12 volt conversions vary significntly.My own started back in 1976 when the JG units were first sold by Dave Lindsley.

Used with the standard 6 volt dynamo with a slight change to the connections of field coil and brushes.

For years ran a 55/60 watt H4 bulb and commuted to shift work on country roads. Had to change brushes and bearings several times and 2 armatures.

The unit failed in 2010 after 24 years. Dynamo commutator solder melted. Replaced unit with another and obviously changed the broken bits..

Now using  LED bulbs in rear. speedo and tacho with a 35/35 HS1 Osram night racer up front. These provide significantly more light than the cheaper 35/35 and 45/45 bulbs available. Dynamo has an easier life now no longer commuting in the dark.

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