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Messages - chrisgoodwin

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Singles / Re: B33 Exhaust valve guide
« on: 12 September, 2017, 22:05:59 »
Hi Bess,
I am having problems with the exhaust valve on my B31 and shortly I want to get the head reamed and if necessary fit an over size guide
So the dimensions you have given are of great interest, but can I ask you to double check?
The outside diameter of a standard exhaust valve is 5/8" (15.875mm)?
But what is the diameter of the hole to accommodate the guide including tolerances?
Thanks in advance,

Singles / Re: B31 Carburettor
« on: 11 September, 2017, 22:32:34 »
Hi all,
I am thinking of fitting a concentric to my B31 to replace the 276 which is now cream crackered, I was thinking about the Amal 626.
Any thoughts?


Singles / Re: B31 loose valve guide
« on: 03 September, 2017, 22:09:41 »
Sorry to drag on but I am trying to get my head round this, as I understand things, the notional diameter of the valve guide is 5/16th? Taking tolerances' into account - in a perfect situation should the hole in the cylinder head be 5/16th and the guide itself be slightly bigger to accommodate the interference fit?

If the valve hole has worn what should the diameter of the hole be to accept +2 or + 4 though dependant on wear?

Thanks in advance,

Singles / Re: B31 loose valve guide
« on: 01 September, 2017, 23:01:37 »
Thanks for the replies, I'll get the hole reamed, checked and a new guide made.
If a job's worth doing it's worth doing right.

Singles / B31 loose valve guide
« on: 31 August, 2017, 22:34:26 »
Hi all,
Head and barrel now stripped, the plan was a thorough clean and paint, but I have come across a problem, the exhaust valve guide was loose with about 1/8" play up & down.
I made a drift and knocked the guide out, after the initial play the guide was tight in the head.
When the valve was put in the guide it is "sticky" at the point where the valve would have been in its seat.
New valve and guide obviously required, but I am unsure what to do to make sure the problem does not reoccur.
New guide with Loctite and hope for the best? Can you buy oversize guides (I remember doing that to a Triumph years ago) or will the guide hole need reaming and a guide made to suit?
I'm a bit stuck on this one, and as ever any advice is really welcome.

Singles / Re: B31 stand
« on: 30 August, 2017, 09:39:15 »
I use a generic bolt on side stand mounted just behind the rear brake fulcrum (Rigid frame), works well with no problems.

Singles / Re: 1953 b31 plunger gearbox
« on: 29 August, 2017, 11:48:09 »
Assuming all the internals are correct and in good shape you could try the gear change control rod which has an adjusting yoke, I set mine up by trial and error.

Singles / Rigid b31 brake pedal spindle retaining nut
« on: 25 August, 2017, 13:25:39 »
Hi all,
I wonder if anyone can help out.
I am trying to source a stainless nut to fit the rear brake spindle, the outer nut that retains the foot pedal.
However, I cannot find the correct thread, I have twice ordered the wrong nuts and I now think I need a 9/16" x 20 TPI nut.
Can anyone confirm or correct me, if you pardon the pun, its driving me nuts!

Singles / Re: Torque wrench
« on: 24 August, 2017, 12:02:19 »
A decent set of spanners is essential and a good metric socket set has got me out of trouble on more than one occasion.
But to throw my two penneth in, have you considered a B31 or 33? The pre unit singles are simple motors and easy to work on, spares are plentiful and the machines themselves are at the more affordable end of the spectrum - Or am I just biased!

The Star and Garter / B31 Valve seats - lead free
« on: 13 August, 2017, 23:57:09 »
Sorry Folks, I can imagine the rolling of the eyes and the cries of "Not this one again!"

The rebuild (Rigid B31) is going really well, can't take much more apart before I will have to start bolting things back together for a change.

Head and barrel off, today the Gods smiled and the dreaded push rod gland and shock absorber retaining nut 'gave' without drama. All hail to E-bay, C spanner worked a treat.

Finally to the question! What is the feeling regarding hardened valve seats, I have read so much, I have decided to give up reading.

There seems to be three schools of thought,

1. Do nothing and fill up as and when required.
2. Fit hardened valve seats
3. Use an additive

I estimate my annual mileage to be fairly low at 4 - 5K PA, weekend tootle of say 50 miles and weather permitting the occasional summer run to the office and back -60 miles and with the seventeen horses on tap, maybe a speed of 50-60  MPH?

In my defence, I left the UK to work abroad ages ago and did not follow the no doubt legion of advice on this subject at that time.

As always, your comments / advice are really welcome.


The Star and Garter / Nuts!
« on: 29 July, 2017, 22:53:10 »
Hi all, I wonder if anyone can give advice on this one.
I am looking for some generic nuts and bolts to keep in my squirrel store to use as the rigid m20 proceeds, there seems to be a myriad of assortments out there and I am confused.
Has anyone recently bought an assortment of nuts and bolts recently?

Singles / M21 Girder Forks (Links)
« on: 19 July, 2017, 22:12:58 »
Hi all,
When I took the forks apart, on both the top and bottom links, I would have thought there would have been a washer between the link and the fork bushes.
There is obvious signs of wear around the bearing surfaces.
All the parts lists I have or have seen do not seem to show a washer between the link and fork bushes.
Should there be a washer, or am I just being thick?

Singles / B31 Rigid rear stand - frame lug
« on: 10 July, 2017, 23:19:41 »
Hello all,
Another request for help. The strip down is complete, I bought a basket case 25 years ago and in 6 weeks I have converted my old beezer back into a basket case!
Yesterday I gave the rear half of the frame a decent licking of nitromors and a thorough power wash, tonight 90 mins with a wire brush in the 'lecky drill has it down to bare metal.
I never had a rear stand on the bike and I suspect the frame lug that retains the spring was ground off in some previous attempt to 'modernise' the bike.
As the rear loop is now down to bare metal now's the time to get any welding done.
So, what I am trying to work out is A/ what the lug looks like and B/ where is it located on the frame?
I'd really appreciate it if someone out there could provide a picture of the stand spring retaining lug in situ that gives enough detail of what and where needs welding

Anyone got a rear stand for a rigid B31 for sale?

The Star and Garter / Painting rims.
« on: 25 June, 2017, 21:33:05 »
Hi all, some more advice needed I'm afraid.
The B31 strip down is going well, most of the tin ware is now either painted, primed or filled and my thoughts are turning to the frame and wheels.
The frame I am going to use Tekaloid (brushed) - I make no apologies, I'm old school.
But the wheels!
The wheels are sound, galvanised spokes are fine, but the chrome is shot, I was thinking if it was possible to paint the rims while the wheel is still spoked.
It would be a short(ish) term solution, but if I can get a couple of seasons use I can defer the cost of rebuilding the wheels and allow me time to make a reasoned choice - painted, Ally, Stainless or chrome.
Has anybody painted their rims  that gave a decent finish?
I have seen so many paints on sale these days, can anyone recommend a paint that would last 18 months or so?

Singles / B31 Primary drive
« on: 15 June, 2017, 23:13:21 »
Hi all, more advice desperately needed!
I am into the primary chaincase, the strip down going well, clutch removed and them I noticed the primary chain has been wearing the main bearing housing extrusion. Please see photo.
My initial thoughts.
-Is the sprocket too small? It has 16 teeth, I presume more teeth would give a bigger diameter and thus more clearance.
-Is the primary chain wrong and had a chain fitted that's too wide?
-Or maybe the problem is the sprocket does not have enough shims behind it to give clearance?
-The corks on the clutch basket are just about non existent - would this have an effect?

And finally, any tips on removing the shock absorber nut, I am hoping a C spanner will tackle the job, but it looks like it has had a fair bit of hammer in the past. Is it a left hand thread? I seem to think there is a 'lefty' associated with the 'bottom end' somewhere.

Once again, many thanks for any advice.

PS, Just down loaded the photo from my phone and almost cr****d myself. I thought there was a crack in the cases and after a frantic run back to the shed the crack turned out to be a piece of cotton from a rag!

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