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Messages - Caulky

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 7
16
Twins / Re: A65 SPITFIRE KICK BACK
« on: 17 February, 2019, 11:03:59 »
As Mike Farmer said further back in this thread, 'weak mixture'.
Opening the throttle slightly brings the needle jet into operation.
Raise the needles one notch, by using a lower notch on the needle.
The pilot screw should be 1 1/2 turns out to begin with, then tune the carbs.
I use the Hughie Hancox method for tuning. i.e. treating each cylinder as a single.
About 4 mins into this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjUU1eDyesI&list=UUZSGgAoIUtPZfo8Y0qTNW0g&index=10 

17
Twins / Re: A65 SPITFIRE KICK BACK
« on: 15 February, 2019, 10:08:07 »
Are the float levels set-up to 0.080" below the cusp?
Easy to adjust with 'stay up' floats.

18
Twins / Re: A65 SPITFIRE KICK BACK
« on: 11 February, 2019, 09:04:12 »
Today's fuel is different to that of the 1960's, so the ignition timing should be retarded a shade.
Clean the idle jets (physically) and use new fuel.

19
Twins / Re: Numpty
« on: 25 December, 2018, 15:03:25 »
Use the new springs, the old ones could have been in there for 50 years+. Over time and being compressed, the springs will deform and shorten.
There are many reasons for difficulty selecting gears, clutch adjustment, gearbox wear, etc.
I suggest you set-up the clutch first and go from there.
It can be a struggle getting the nuts on against the spring tension, take your time and it will find the threads. Locate the bolts centrally to begin with.
Put all of the nuts on first lightly, then tension each in turn gradually.

20
Twins / Re: Numpty
« on: 25 December, 2018, 10:24:30 »
The four nuts should be (more or less) level with the pressure plate....BUT, they need to be adjusted!
After setting-up the clutch centre nut/screw, cable, etc.
Tie the clutch lever in. With the plugs out, kick slowly and use a wire pointer close the outer part of the pressure plate.
Adjust the four nuts until it spins with no wobble. 

21
Twins / Re: BSA A50 1962 CLUTCH STICKING
« on: 08 December, 2018, 10:58:36 »
If you want to clean the clutch plates, soak them in paraffin (kerosene) overnight. Then dry them and fit them dry.
Before attempting to start the engine, pull the clutch lever (ignition off) and kick until the clutch spins freely.
If this can not be achieved, adjustment is neccessary.

22
Twins / Re: A65L bad starting
« on: 16 November, 2018, 09:07:21 »
What is your battery voltage?
It should read 12.6V charged.
Is the ignition timing correct?
Tune the carbs.

23
Twins / Re: stainless head lamp brackets 71 A65
« on: 02 November, 2018, 09:09:50 »
Not stainless, but its a source.
97.4058/6    HEADLAMP WIRE STAY MOUNTING BRACKETS 1971-73 OIL IN FRAME MODELS WITH 7" LIGHT UNIT £24.00

http://www.tms-motorcycles.co.uk/store/products/list.asp?cat_id=14    

24
Twins / Re: Jetting advice
« on: 23 September, 2018, 08:55:53 »
My '71 spares book gives 180, 106, for 930 carbs.
But, this was written back in 19??
Today's fuel is a lot different now, and the set-up may need to be adjusted. (needle clip position, etc)
 

25
Twins / Re: rectifier/regulator
« on: 04 September, 2018, 12:12:05 »
I don't have a '66 wiring diagram, but bikes fitted with an ammeter are basically similar.
Hence, whatever the wiring colours are, you need to wire it as below:
From the negative terminal of the battery-to fuse-to *ammeter (-ve). And nothing else except,
At this point * there MAY be other high current stuff connected, which would otherwise drastically affect the ammeter reading, in the short time, (horn, horn button).
Now, to the OTHER side of the ammeter (+ve), the ammeter needs to detect which way the DC current is flowing, to/from the battery.
The output of your rect/reg (black) is connected here, and also the ignition switch.
The ON side of the ignition switch has the EI white wire.
There are variations, and I wish I could be more specific for your bike, maybe someone else can chime in.
i.e. the lighting switch could be before or after the ignition switch, depending on whether the lights can be turned on without turning the ignition switch on.
But the lights need to be included in the other side of the ammeter.
My '71 A65L was not fitted with an ammeter, but it is now.

26
Twins / Re: rectifier/regulator
« on: 03 September, 2018, 11:41:23 »
An explanation.
With the old points system, each 12V coil charges with energy every other cycle of the crank on its compression stroke. (left/right/left/right/etc) four stroke engine,
So each coil will have 12V across it before its point opens and the plug fires. Each 12V coil primary has a resistance of around 4 Ohms, giving a DC current of I=V/R, I = 12/4, i.e. current I = 3 Amps.
It is the 'rate of change of current' which governs the primary voltage. Although it appears to be instantaneous when the points open, it isn't because of the nature of the release of the magnetic energy is a discharge curve (hysteresis), and the internal resistance. But it is very quick.
The primary coil produces a back EMF (opposite polarity voltage spike/pulse) which opposes the applied 12V DC voltage of around 100V,  which is transformed by the huge number of turns in the secondary into thousands of Volts at the plug gap. This voltage is high enough to ionise the compressed fuel/air mixture which significantly lowers the resistance, and an arc (spark) ignites the mixture at its timing point.

With an electronic ignition, the above still happens BUT, the coils are in series, both fire at the same time.
So here, we have 12V across two coils. *If they are 12V coils the available current is halved because the resistance is doubled, 8 Ohms, hence the available energy is also halved.
This is why 6V coils are recommended, because their primary resistance is around 2 Ohms, giving a total resistance similar to a single 12V coil.
The reg/rect unit prevents overvoltage to about 15V, this prevents the battery from overheating and the electrolyte boiling.
Although the 12V coils usually work, there is a snag if the battery is not in good condition, fully charged.
A bad battery may cause misfires, if the voltage is too low, a fully charged battery has a voltage of 12.6V. More when running (~14V).
Radiated and conducted voltages may affect the electronic components in the rect/reg, which is why loaded plugs or plug caps are recommended.
Especially from the spark plug, because it a mixture of various spikes at various frequencies, this load attenuates the spikes to a reasonable level.
The primary voltage is prevented from going back to the E.I. unit by blocking diodes/filters.

If you have charging problems, they are caused by 1) bad battery 2) alternator not coping with the load current  3) poor wiring/connectors.
Usually, the battery itself is the source. If any of the cells are damaged, it will hog current, which ought to power the normal electrics.
Simple test, ignition on, main beam on, motor not running.
From Sparx "a good battery should sustain 12 volts for 10 minutes". If the lights dim greatly within this time limit, get a new (tested) battery.
   

27
Twins / Re: rectifier/regulator
« on: 29 August, 2018, 10:43:36 »
Red wires are postive (+), black negative (-). Unless *
So, for a positive earth bike (chassis/frame) the battery + red goes to the frame/earth and the red rect/reg wire.
The heatsink obviously needs to be mounted somewhere to the frame in an airflow.
The internal electronics are isolated from the heatsink, so it can be fitted to either +ve or -ve earth bikes.

*Now, some people convert their bike to negative earth, why I don't know? It causes confusion when the bike is sold on to innocent buyers.
If these people are using the the original wiring loom, it means that the wiring colours are now wrong. (red & black reversed polarity and the rectifier/coil connections are changed to suit).
Later Triumph T140's were negative earth and the wiring harness is colour coded to reflect this.
Your bike appears to be standard positive earth, negative feed is fused. Wire your bike as standard, you can remove the points arc capacitors and the old rectifier.

*Again, to add to the confusion to unsuspecting bikers, some people change the wiring, so that both power leads from the battery may be fused, or either singly.
This subject has been discussed to death in various forums.
I suggest you stick to the original wiring diagram for your bike, shown in the workshop manual.
Don't forget to use loaded plugs or plug-caps. The plugs will have an 'R' in their part number. I prefer to use loaded plug caps because any suitable (non 'R' plugs) can be substituted...don't use both loaded plugs and caps.
Ignore Ebay.

29
Twins / Re: rectifier/regulator
« on: 09 August, 2018, 10:40:13 »
Your bike is single phase, if it was 3-phase it would have a 3-phase rectifier, utilising each of the three alternator wires seperately.
The reason for connecting two of the alternator wires together is to get the maximum power from the alternator.
There are many rect/reg units available, all of which are superior to the original set-up, if located on metal in an airstream for cooling.
Personally I use the Sparx SPX001, but 5000 Ohm loaded plugs or plug-caps must be used.
http://www.tri-corengland.com/acatalog/Regulator_Rectifiers.html

30
Twins / Re: smiths speedometer repair/recalibration
« on: 01 August, 2018, 09:55:29 »
You don't say where you are, but if the uk, I send my 'clocks' here:
http://www.speedorepairs.co.uk/

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