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Messages - Bess

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Twins / Re: A65 oil
« on: 04 August, 2017, 20:12:36 »
Hi Old Biker,
                   I use modern oils...

Best wishes...

Singles / Re: First classic
« on: 04 August, 2017, 19:08:56 »
Hi Phil,
            I suggest a A65/A70 oil in frame model. They suit taller riders, nice link below:

The bikes are easy to maintain, rebuild and personalise with a good supply of spares and engineering workshops (SRM provide a good service with general and specialist products). With no experience but a determination you would have no issues owning one or maybe two.

Best wishes...

Hi All,
         Here it is my new ride, started it up today for the first time.

I made it from spares I collected over the years for my other bike. I needed room in the garage, and a complete bike takes up less room  :).

Its been an enjoyable project as I haven't had to spend sheds of money to keep it original. Hopefully I will be riding it across Dartmoor next spring.

Now for the MOT, dating and DVLA  :'( :'( :'(

Twins / Re: A10 Dynamo belt-drive conversion and Rodark panniers
« on: 01 August, 2017, 19:30:18 »
Hi Greybeard,
                     Lovely looking machine.... :)


Twins / Re: Oil
« on: 31 July, 2017, 12:54:38 »
Hi Greybeard,
                    Welcome to the forum.

I've read the techfile link with interest many times and cannot decide what is correct.

Castrol classic engine oils:

Quote -In older engines where the carbon has built up over a number of years detergents can have a scouring effect, causing the carbon to flake off, blocking up oil galleries and spray jets. High levels of detergent can also "wash" traces of carbon from seals and gaskets, revealing oil leaks where the carbon itself is creating a seal.

BSA service sheet 81, attached, warns of changing from low to high detergent oils and offers a solution.

I also noted the file recommended multi grade oils and touched on polymer shear. Miller oils do not recommend multi grade oils in engines with roller bearing on the crank due to polymer shear and stacking in the rollers. This has been noted within other technical documents but generally ignored.

I would love to see a definitive document on oils for my bikes but haven't found one yet, I'm now completely confused and don't know what to use, generally waiting for an expert to enlighten me.

Best wishes...

Singles / Re: Trial run
« on: 30 July, 2017, 21:00:53 »
     You're most welcome. I also use a colortune:

They can be bought for less elsewhere.

Best wishes...

Twins / Re: Spitfire Tank fitting
« on: 30 July, 2017, 16:46:10 »
    The A5065 workshop manual, page GD22 also states 5 gallons. I presumed RobW meant the steel tank as 4 gallons was mentioned, hence the drawings for steel.

I've had problems with the strap in the past. I now make my own using a clutch spring cup as the centre section which fits over the spike (it is uncannily similar to the OEM part).

Best wishes...

Twins / Re: Twin leading shoes
« on: 30 July, 2017, 12:57:42 »
    I recently bought from Venhill, items seem to be competitively priced and of good quality:

Best wishes...

Singles / Re: Trial run
« on: 30 July, 2017, 07:41:01 »

Twins / Re: Spitfire Tank fitting
« on: 27 July, 2017, 08:59:10 »
    Nice bike.

To help, apologies if you have this information already - my records show - tank bolts:

68-8080 Spitfire(USA), Hornet & Wasp 5/16" 26tpi 4"
68-8045 Spitfire (For use with 68-8165 tank, the one shown in your photo) 5/16" 26tpi 2 7/8"

68-8011 All 5/16" 26tpi 3 1/2" (4 gallon)
68-8173 All 5/16" 26tpi 4" (2 gallon)

It might be you have the wrong rubbers and under tank bracket. 1967 tank details attached.

Best wishes....

Twins / Re: Spitfire Tank fitting
« on: 26 July, 2017, 16:00:31 »
Hi RobW,
             There maybe other ways, this method works for me (note tank schematic shown not 67 but fittings are the same):

U shaped rubbers, tape around frame about 2" from either end (not set in stone, move them as necessary) of the tank, large in the front small at the rear. Check the handlebars turning far right and left to ensure they do not strike the tank.

Centre tank bolt (20), fit first, then washer (5), distance tube (4), tank (28), tank o ring (21) , tank mounting ring (22), front and rear beading (6 + 27), beading holder (23), tank bolt rubber (rubber ball) (24), washer (3) and finally nut (2) tighten as required on completion push in BSA logo grommet (1) on top.

Fit rubber bush (18) to spike on the underside frame, then petrol tank bracket (15) secure with 2 x 5/16" set bolts (33). I put a rubber washer between bracket and tank and bracket and washer (32).

Things to watch out for:

 5/16" set bolts are correct length and do not puncture tank.
 Don't mix 2 gallon tanks parts with 4 gallon tank parts.
 Its fiddly, so good luck.
 Fit and adjust beading beforehand. I fit a good quality insulating tape over the tank seam before fitting beading, it protects the paintwork.

Best wishes...

Twins / Re: Oil
« on: 23 July, 2017, 15:01:53 »
Hi Fereday,
                 Be a bit careful with Miller oils, they have a statement in their product literature:

"CLASSIC 20w50 Mineral. Classic multigrade mineral oils were introduced in the early 1960s and solved the problem of using a different grade in summer versus winter. NOTE: Multigrade oils are not recommended for engines which employ roller-bearing crankshafts"

Best wishes...

Twins / Re: Oil
« on: 22 July, 2017, 21:39:40 »
Hi Fereday,
                 If you are going to use a 20/40 and it has detergent properties it will release and carry the sludge deposits. It would be prudent to fit a filter, change the oil and filter after 250 miles again at 500 miles before returning to the normal change intervals.

Best wishes...

Twins / Re: 1973 Thunderbolt
« on: 21 July, 2017, 21:23:29 »
Hi Boneidle,
                  The Tacho part number 19-8950 was only listed for the Lightning and Firebird.

Best wishes...

Twins / Re: A65 rebuild
« on: 20 July, 2017, 09:37:07 »
    Not to sure if this will help in your decision.

 All the new sprockets I have fitted have been plated, not sure if this was the manufactures original specification.
 If you want the sprocket chemically blacked (I apologise now if you are aware) this can be done on the one you have by cleaning, polishing, heating and plunging in oil.

Best wishes...

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