Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Bess

Pages: 1 ... 11 12 [13] 14 15 ... 17
Twins / Re: Nuts
« on: 27 March, 2017, 17:01:07 »
Hi Caulky,
There is a mass of information on the web regarding nut locking, its made my head spin over the years. So, I try to use what's specified or modern fixings if I think there's a betterment.

My MO is:

I use plain full nuts when assembling/dismantling during a rebuild and setting the end float.

Nyloc or Aerotight as you say are single use.

If a lock is required and with all probability the fastening is going to be in place until the next rebuild I use Aerotight with a spot of Loctite (Loctite strength determined by the temperature of its location and the outcome if the nut drops off). If it's good for the aero industry it's good for me. It's easy to dress the threads during the next build, I do to all fixings to aid assembly when rebuilding anyway.

If I need to remove items in between rebuilds I use Nyloc and try to avoid spring washers (In my experience there is a lot of poor quality spring washers available). As you said not for exhausts or other hot areas.

I always use washers if I can, to spread the load and to stop the paint chipping (not on con rods though, and other places that are not recommended).

Good luck......

Singles / Re: Wheel hubs
« on: 27 March, 2017, 16:21:32 »

     It sounds like a spoke has been over tightened in the past, I would replace the hub.

If I couldn't get a replacement, I would strip it out and carefully, check it for other cracks (using penetrant spray or magnetic crack detection). You've probably heard of wheeltappers, tapping/ringing the hub when it's stripped down will give you a good indication of its health.

If I was confident it was safe to use after a repair, I would drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it migrating. Braze and lightly tighten the spoke, as one spoke left like that would be okay but I would monitor regularly.

Best of luck...........

Twins / Re: Nut removal
« on: 26 March, 2017, 18:33:54 »
                  Good news............. :)

Twins / Re: Nut removal
« on: 25 March, 2017, 22:08:26 »
     Can you take out the banjo oil feed from the other side of the shaft. Put a bolt with a locking nut in its place, use it to hold the shaft whilst undoing the acorn nut?

Twins / Re: 1971 A65L Drive side thrust washer
« on: 25 March, 2017, 15:49:32 »
Hi Caulky,

                I think you are describing the shim retaining cup and its height is not important. Fit the shims inside the cup and press it onto the inner part of the roller bearing.

 It is not a thrust washer, thats fitted on the timing side.

Best wishes....

Which BSA do you ride? / Re: A50
« on: 24 March, 2017, 20:31:35 »
Hi Guys,
              Thanks for thumbs up. I decided to move away from standard builds for a change and build a fun ride. I thought it would be cheaper but I'm not so sure, my latest designs are eating money :-\ :'(

Twins / Re: Made in England decal?
« on: 23 March, 2017, 17:25:16 »
Hi Andy,
              I remembered another forum talking about this very subject, here's the link:

Twins / Re: A65l ignition warning light
« on: 23 March, 2017, 14:25:04 »
Hi John,
              I didn't realize the 63 model had an oil tapping on the casing.

I have a A50 without the oil pressure tapping, I connected one warning light for ignition the other for main beam. As you have an oil pressure switch it maybe worth wiring the ignition and oil warning lights to act as Julian mentioned.

Best wishes...

Twins / Re: A65l ignition warning light
« on: 23 March, 2017, 11:08:46 »
Mine stays on indicating power to ignition. When I turn ignition switch off, light goes off.

Best wishes..........

The Star and Garter / Re: London Today
« on: 22 March, 2017, 18:43:27 »
Hi All,
         I hope nobody was personally affected by the events today in London, my thoughts are with the victims. Does the club support in any way?

Twins / Re: Engine tear down
« on: 22 March, 2017, 09:48:05 »
     My criteria for a rebuild is obvious engine noise related to the crank bearings, main and big ends. If so, I fit a pressure gauge and if am happy with the oil pressure when the oil is warm I continue riding. The engines I've stripped have had about 50% of the sludge trap filled with muck which did not impede the oil flow.

From memory the oil pressure switch operates above 5 psi and the oil pressure relief valve is set at 50 psi.

Best wishes....

Twins / Re: A65 - Front wheel spindle
« on: 20 March, 2017, 12:15:31 »
Hi JulianS,
                 Thanks for the reply, interesting findings, lucky I haven't got the issues like the chap in Canada but reading through and looking at the photos I had an epiphany.

I measured the metal between the tube and the spindle clamp. The counterbored slider has a length 0.780" the other has 0.650", the depth of thread is longer for the clamp bolts I expect.

I will be using the sliders I have using allen screws for the high tensile strength, unless I can source  new (that's doubtful). The other issue is that the gap between the clamp and slider is slightly bigger on the non counterbored sliders. Cannot determine the difference with the clamps.

Also now need counterbored clamps to fit the correct sliders on the A50.

I have sourced the correct spindle so the original problem should be solved after I fit it.

Thanks for your input, learnt a little more for the autojumbles.. :)

Twins / Re: A65 - Front wheel spindle
« on: 19 March, 2017, 17:46:36 »
Okay, that changes things. The A50 has the counterbores the 2 A65's do not.

All three sets of forks have been rebuilt from scratch with new items corresponding to all part numbers from years 1969 to 1970 using the fork sliders with and without counterbores (slider part numbers 97-3641 & 97-3645).

My guess is that the counterbores are added to the fork sliders because they have been built as per the diagram attached. Maybe the fork sliders are the same for other models but with different internals.

I would value your opinion...

Twins / Re: 1971 A65L plain main bush
« on: 19 March, 2017, 16:44:16 »
Hi Caulky,
                If it is within specification and undamaged leave it. The roller bearing alignment should be fine unless the crank journal on the drive side is under tolerance, sleeving or the use of loctite should solve that. 

Clean the sludge trap, reassemble and rotate the crankshaft, if it does not rotate freely you have an issue that will need investigation.

Best wishes.....

Pages: 1 ... 11 12 [13] 14 15 ... 17