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Messages - Trev

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1
Twins / Re: A65l gearbox driven speedo
« on: 27 September, 2017, 14:15:37 »
Yes found it: Chronometric up until 1974 Source:  www.chronometricspeedos.co.uk/
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Chronometric Speedos were fitted to motorcycles up to 1963 and on police motorcycles up to 1974

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Twins / Re: A65l gearbox driven speedo
« on: 27 September, 2017, 13:59:17 »
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Is the speedo chronometric or magnetic?
Did not the police only use chronometric?

3
Twins / Re: a7 oil tank dowty seals?
« on: 14 September, 2017, 10:53:52 »
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Anyone tried dowty seals instead of fibre washers on the oil tank banjo on a 1957 A7? If so what sizes did you use
Sorry I can't answer your question about the size of seal required, but I am about to try this out myself. In my experience dowty seals do work really well. Dowty seals proved to be the solution to the persistent leaks that I experienced on the rocker cover oil supply banjos. Others may have alternative views, but I have never found fibre washers to be satisfactory at sealing anything. I have also used a dowty seal to good effect on my SRM sump plug. Previously I had used both fibre washers and copper washers in this application and no matter what they always allowed oil to seep out. I should also mention that I have also used a dowty washer to effectively seal the gearbox drain plug wich and previously always had a tendency to weep. As you probably know dowty seals are widely used to seal hydraulic systems and if they can hold back leaks in a hydraulic system they are more than adequate for sealing BSA oil joints.
Trev

4
Singles / Re: B31 loose valve guide
« on: 01 September, 2017, 09:45:15 »
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cylinder head shop in London
Yes, I agree, he did my A10 ally head wich had the exact same problem that you describe. Made a very good job of it. http://cylinderheadshop.com/ and of course he knows the correct tolerences wich is important.

5
Twins / Re: Steering lock removal 1972 Thunderbolt
« on: 10 August, 2017, 19:34:29 »
Julian, thank you for showing that, and it does indeed look as if that plug has to be dug out before the grub screw can be accessed. I wonder how that is done. Could turn out to be an interesting challenge!

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Twins / Re: Steering lock removal 1972 Thunderbolt
« on: 10 August, 2017, 18:48:49 »
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The parts book shows what it describes as a sealing washer over the grub screw.
Julian I cannot see that in either of my parts books, but I am not saying that is not the case. It might well be, however as far as I can remember, the grub screw that retained my lock barrel needed an allen key to undo it. So A10 JWO try poking some different sized keys in there and see if you can locate one of them in the screw hex. It is quite possible that the hex keyway has got plugged up with grease and dirt over a period of time. With luck and god on your side you should be able to get a key in far enough to release the screw. That is the way it was when I did mine.

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Twins / Re: Steering lock removal 1972 Thunderbolt
« on: 10 August, 2017, 12:00:57 »
I forgot to mention this. Try not to loose the grub screw, not all new locks come supplied with one. As you might imagine there is a very good reason why I happen to know this.

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Twins / Re: Steering lock removal 1972 Thunderbolt
« on: 09 August, 2017, 13:52:58 »
It will be held in place with a grub screw.

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Twins / Re: Fitting of M20/21 girder forks to a late A10 frame
« on: 03 August, 2017, 19:39:32 »
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PS I enjoyed looking through your website. I shall be paying another visit or two. You passed very close to me when you ventured North over the Humber Bridge. I presume you got through the Yorkshire border control point without too much difficulty
No, no, Greybeard, I am not he. Laurence is a mate of mine. Actually it is sometime since I have had any contact with him. The word on the grape vine is that he no longer rides his bikes, but he still has them.

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Twins / Re: Fitting of M20/21 girder forks to a late A10 frame
« on: 03 August, 2017, 17:50:38 »
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Is possible to fit M20 girder forks to a late A10 frame?
As you can see it can be done. If you want details of what was involved visit the website http://laurence.swain.me.uk/index.html

11
Twins / Re: A10 Dynamo belt-drive conversion and Rodark panniers
« on: 02 August, 2017, 10:35:12 »
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tried several types, but DVR the best.
I agree, the best there is.

12
Twins / Re: A65 basket case
« on: 10 July, 2017, 11:24:01 »
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I'm hoping to be able to get a puller behind the clutch center but after that I have read so many problems with extractor tools being stripped on the threads trying to remove the last part.
These are the instructions that came with my puller, I have yet to use it though! Correct Puller use; "Only tighten the extraction bolt gradually and once tight a quarter turn at a time. Once tight, tap the end of the extraction bolt with a metal hammer after each quarter turn until the taper is broken"

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Twins / Gearbox grub screw removal
« on: 27 June, 2017, 11:26:34 »
I need to change the gear shift selector forks. Is it possible to access and remove or loosen the spindle retaining grub screw while the gear box is still in the frame? Has anyone actually done this, and if so how did you do it?

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Twins / Re: A10 gearbox problem
« on: 02 June, 2017, 14:19:18 »
Thanks everyone for all your comments, suggestions, and advice. Well, I thought better give you an update. I think that the problem is more or less resolved. It looks like the cam plate plunger was the source of the problem. There was 4 threads visible below the camplate lock nut, so I screwed the plunger up about one and a half turns. That seems to have done the trick. Oddly on the test ride when changing up from first to second it did stick a couple of times and then everything settled down and worked perfectly. I might just give it a small tweak, but as it appears to be functioning correctly now, I will leave it for now unless the problem returns. Not sure why raising the plunger should have had that effect but it has.

15
Twins / Re: A10 gearbox problem
« on: 05 May, 2017, 10:12:36 »
Thanks everyone for all you input. More than a few things to think about there. I shall have to it seems, bite the bullet and take a look inside the box although I am not so sure that I am competent to make a clear diagnosis. Can I do this with the box in situ or will I have to remove it? One thing I have just remembered, is that the gear shift spindle has some movement, that is to say it has some slack, I can pull it in and out could this be an indicator of where the trouble lies? It occurs to me that maybe it needs to be shimmed to prevent this? or am I just clutching at straws?

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