Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - BEVANC

Pages: [1] 2
1
Pre War / Re: Starting problem after magneto rebuild
« on: 02 November, 2017, 00:47:46 »
A further comment from another forum:

"Tight wire advance was the norm till around the 50's on BSA's.
M's remained that way AFAIK till the end of manual advance where the B's & A's got slack wire advance.

As for timing.
The .003" opening at TDC assumes that the points are .012" at full lift,and both sprockets are in the correct positions on the engine & magneto , if it is differnt then the timing will be out.
Now the easiest way to alter the timing is to change the max points opening, try it at .002" increments
IF you think the spark is too far advanced, close down the points gap a thou or two.
You can knock around .004" to .006" off the max opening and still get a spark, although it might break down at higher speeds so this is only done to quickly test the timing and not for running.
If the engine starts then the sprocket has slipped on the magneto.
If the magneto has just been overhauled then it should produce sufficient energy to spark at less than optimal flux opisition although it might brak down at higher revs.
From ( unreliable ) memory the magneto sprocket is on a plain taper and the engine sprocket is keyed.
Thus it is very easy to get the sprocket in the wrong position.

The opposite occurs when you enlargen the max opening so you can go each way very quickly to test if you have the timing right."

2
Pre War / Re: Starting problem after magneto rebuild
« on: 30 October, 2017, 17:51:41 »
A suggestion posted in reply on another forum:

"Pull the valve chest cover off and the mag end cap.
Rotate the engine to where the fag paper just pulls through the mag points then flip over to the other side and check you can turn both of the valve adjusters between your fingers indicating that the valves are closed.
Also check the valve lifter is not holding the exhaust valve open"

Best of luck :)
Cheers,
Bevan

3
Pre War / Re: Starting problem after magneto rebuild
« on: 30 October, 2017, 13:09:00 »
Hello,
A much more experienced Sloper owner than myself has the following comments\queries:

1/ From the photo, the magneto does appear to be tight wire advance, so the timing procedure you described should be correct. When tightened, the cable is definitely rotating the cam in the direction opposite to engine rotation, isn't it ?  If not, then the ignition could be way, way, advanced and would cause the symptoms you describe.

2/ Is there any chance that one of the valve timing gears could have been moved by even 1 tooth during the the magneto replacement ? This would also cause starting problems.
 
Cheers,
Bevan
 

4
Pre War / Re: Starting problem after magneto rebuild
« on: 30 October, 2017, 01:05:37 »
Hello,
I have posted your query on another forum and will let you know of any advice. 

I'm by no means an expert, but my Sloper has a similar carb to your bike.  Just because fuel drips from the carb does not guarantee the jets are clear.  I would take the carb apart, ensure the jets are clean, and the float level is correct.  Although kick back is often due to the timing being incorrect, I think that too lean a mixture could also be a cause.
Cheers,
Bevan

5
Pre War / Re: Sloper wiring info advice please
« on: 15 October, 2017, 07:07:38 »
Hi Tony,
Don't have a 1934 diagram but I do have a wiring diagram in a "Book of the BSA" that says it is for: "the 1936 Lucas Magdyno lighting equipment with instrument panel, without automatic voltage control"; also a diagram for "1937-9 Lucas Magdyno lighting equipment with instrument panel, with automatic voltage control".
Let me know if you'd like me to scan a copy of either or both.
Cheers,
Bevan
Methven
N.Z.

6
Pre War / Re: Identify model please
« on: 23 August, 2017, 09:56:37 »
Hi Julian,
Just curious - what do you think about the mudguard shape in Emilios photo ? I've seen, "in the flesh" one 1929 500 cc twin port OHV with that wide mudguard with the forks penetrating the guard, but all others I've seen (including mine) have the narrow, valanced front guard.
Can't tell from the 1929 parts book if a mudguard option was that wide one or not.
Any ideas ?
Cheers,
Bevan

7
Pre War / Re: Identify model please
« on: 22 August, 2017, 20:40:25 »
Hi Emilios,
I am no expert, but it looks your bike is a side valve and the fitting you asked about is a compression tap like part number 15-94 and EA 110 shown in the attached extract from a 1929 parts book.  A photo of the other side of the bike would be useful.
Cheers,
Bevan

8
Pre War / Re: Identify model please
« on: 21 August, 2017, 00:32:58 »
The website "British Only Austria" has stands for sale, and "Cornucopia" have rear number plates and also springs for the stand.  The parts on both sites are expensive.

9
Pre War / Re: Sloper Dating
« on: 06 August, 2017, 00:03:52 »
Hi Mike,
I have a photocopy of some data that I believe came from VCC records, showing 1931 and 1932 models as all starting with "Y7".  The last one on the page is 1932 Y7 5033, so presumably your one is 1933 or 1934, depending on how many they actually produced in those years ? Shame I haven't got the next page from their records - probably has numbers listed close to what you have.

For info, it also shows the 1931 & 1932 engine numbers with "Y10" prefix and numbers ranging from 570 up to 2535.

Cheers,
Bevan

10
Pre War / Re: 1929 Sloper 500cc Crankshaft Rivets
« on: 05 August, 2017, 21:24:02 »
Hi Ray,
I have forwarded an email reply I got from David, he included a couple of photos that I'll put into the Google drive folder you have access to, but since you've got your engine apart, you'll have seen it anyway.
Cheers,
Bevan


11
The Star and Garter / Re: Sloper value
« on: 28 July, 2017, 10:22:43 »
Mike,
I bought an S29 500 ohv last year privately from a Norfolk seller for just over GBP 8000. No idea if this was good value, but it is a beautifully restored bike and I love it. It had all necessary paperwork and is fully road legal here in N Z.
Cheers
Bevan Clark

12
Pre War / Re: magdyno pickup
« on: 20 July, 2017, 06:49:51 »
Just a suggestion - I had a worn brush on the MO1L magdyno fitted to my Panther.  I bought a cheapish replacement which turned out to be useless - could only get the bike to fire up when I put the original one back in.  Some are too hard and others too soft I gather. Don't go the cheap route if you need a replacement; that would be my advice !
Cheers,
Bevan

13
Pre War / 1929 Sloper crankcase breather
« on: 16 July, 2017, 22:15:55 »
Hi folks,
I suspect that my crankcase breather may be blocked.  If I remove the primary side oiler (which I gather acts as the breather (yes/no ?), should I be able to feel some air pressure if I put my finger over the breather hole when I kick the engine over slowly ?

I've attached (I hope) a couple of images of the oiler\breather .

Turning it over:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHbwMKxtg1I

Cheers,
Bevan   

14
Pre War / Re: 1929 Sloper "challenge"
« on: 16 July, 2017, 22:06:52 »
Hi Swoopster,
Best of luck with the repair.
I have an identical bike that I will need to strip down later this year, once other projects are out of the way.  I have quite a bit of information on these engines I could share with you - send me a PM if you are interested.

I'd be keen to see any photos of the progress of dismantling if you have the chance to take some - always good to know in advance what you are supposed to be seeing when you open things up.

Cheers,
Bevan


 

15
Pre War / Re: OHV Sloper Gearing
« on: 21 April, 2017, 20:45:23 »
Thanks for the prompt replies Julian and Dean.

Changing both sprockets should make a hell of a difference.  I wonder what on earth the bike had been used for in a past life to have such low gearing - maybe something like what was being done to the poor Panther in this picture.

Cheers,
Bevan

Pages: [1] 2