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Messages - AWJDThumper

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Singles / Re: Scavenge Valve Replacement
« on: 29 January, 2018, 19:51:30 »
Feed NRV is shown with part nos 20, 21 & 23.

Singles / Re: Scavenge Valve Replacement
« on: 29 January, 2018, 19:43:51 »
Just re-reading your original post again, I think you are looking at the wrong non-return valve (NRV). There are two inside the engine, one on the feed side and one on the return side. You have been looking at the return (scavenge) NRV which doesn't really do a great deal. It is the feed NRV which is there to help stop oil in the oil tank draining into the sump and a problem with it can result in wet sumping. On your engine, it is located in the inner timing cover and there is a grub screw that has to be removed to get at it. Therefore, it is a bit of a job to overhaul the feed NRV but it depends on how bad your wet sumping is.

Twins / Re: A65 Sump guard OIF
« on: 29 January, 2018, 18:36:20 »
I've got a sump guard fitted to all my OIF bikes and the non-BSA bike I ride all the time. They are very good at keeping muck off the bottom of the bike but are vital for any green laning or off road work because otherwise the sump plate is very easily damaged.

Twins / Re: Fitting an electronic impulse Rev Counter to an A10
« on: 29 January, 2018, 17:48:45 »
The fuse rating should be based on what current will be drawn by the rev counter but I would use the smallest fuse you can get away with. A 5A fuse might be a good starting point.

Singles / Re: Scavenge Valve Replacement
« on: 29 January, 2018, 17:42:06 »
I believe it is just an interference fit but you would probably need to heat up the casing around it to be able to pull it out. I think I've tested one before now by putting a tight fitting rubber pipe over the end and then sucking and blowing to check whether the valve is working ok.

Singles / Re: C15 S Scrambler 1959 model. Side stand query
« on: 29 January, 2018, 17:37:29 »
I've just found out a bit more info on the RH sidestand and it looks to be the same length as a standard C15. I suspect it's ok for a C15T but is not long enough for a C15S with its bigger wheels.

The Star and Garter / Re: DVLA Woes
« on: 29 January, 2018, 17:35:04 »
None of my dealings with the DVLA have been particularly straightforward and a Dating Certificate or Vehicle Report has always been required at the end of the day irrespective of what has been asked of them. However, I'm bloody minded enough not to take no for an answer and will tend to persist until they finally capitulate. Good luck with your application ;)

Singles / Re: C15 S Scrambler 1959 model. Side stand query
« on: 29 January, 2018, 14:44:36 »
The RH side stand used on the C15S appears to be 40-6047. One is advertised below and it might be worth phoning them to find out its length, although it doesn't look that long:

Singles / Re: C15 S Scrambler 1959 model. Side stand query
« on: 29 January, 2018, 13:23:30 »
I've tried to find an answer to your question but can't find any evidence that they were ever fitted with a side stand. I think that, unlike the C15T, the C15S was only ever intended for off road use and the use of a paddock stand would have been assumed. That said, I'm sure it wouldn't be too difficult to extend a standard side stand to give you the correct length.

The Star and Garter / Re: DVLA Woes
« on: 29 January, 2018, 10:39:33 »
Finally got the details changed on the V5C for my B40WD. Apart from recording the year of manufacture wrongly, the original V5C missed off the model designation (B40GB) from both the frame and engine numbers. DVLA wouldn't simply amend them and insisted on a Dating Certificate confirming the original bikes details.

The first Dating Certificate was sent by recorded delivery but never reached DVLA. The second Dating Certificate was sent by first class mail - this also didn't reach DVLA. Fortunately, the third Dating Certificate did manage to get through and the V5C details were then changed as requested.

I'm not sure what lessons can be learned from this undertaking other than not to give up. However, next time I want DVLA to do something for me, I might well think about delivering the letter by hand especially if it involves important documents that can't be replaced>:(

Twins / Re: Fitting an electronic impulse Rev Counter to an A10
« on: 29 January, 2018, 07:57:49 »
Having thought about this a little, I think a slightly more cautious approach might be best especially connecting an electronic device to a motorcycle battery. Ideally, you should have a fuse between the battery and the DC-DC converter (DDC). I would then connect the DDC inputs to the 6V supply but leave the two output disconnected for the time being. First check is to make sure you get 12V output between the leads from the DDC using a voltmeter. I would then measure the voltage at each output lead relative to the ground at the battery. If the two outputs are isolated then you should measure arbitrary voltages; that is, one output shouldn't be a 0V and the other shouldn't be at 12V. If they are, the outputs aren't isolated and the DDC won't work in your circuit. If they appear to be isolated, with the voltmeter leads connected to the output leads of the DDC, I would gingerly touch the -ve output to ground to see whether the other output gives you +12V. If it does then your circuit should be ok.

Singles / Re: Choke
« on: 28 January, 2018, 21:02:26 »
Look at hoogerbooger thread which gives his settings for a concentric carb.

Singles / Re: C15 brake pedal return spring location
« on: 28 January, 2018, 21:01:06 »
What year is your C15. Most of the later ones were fitted with a spring concentric to the brake pedal pivot which I've found is not that strong.

Singles / Re: Choke
« on: 28 January, 2018, 20:12:58 »
If the carb is leaking air, that could be why it won't run properly. Running on choke might be trying to correct for this weak mixture but may result in being too rich at low throttle opening. It's best to check out each possible source of the problem in turn. Since you haven't got the standard carb fitted, the state of the carb needs to be checked to show a problem or to rule it out.

Also, what's the history of the bike. For example, have you recently acquired it and found it has this problem or have you owned it some time and this problem has only recently developed?

Twins / Re: Fitting an electronic impulse Rev Counter to an A10
« on: 28 January, 2018, 18:53:22 »
From what I can see, the circuit is fine providing the DC-DC converter output is electrically isolated from the input. I would connect up the converter to the battery without the rev counter and check you get +12V out with the -ve output connected to earth as shown in the wiring diagram. If you do then you should be safe to connect up the rev counter. The only tricky bit is to get a suitable trigger signal to the rev counter.

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