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Messages - Arthur

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« on: 19 February, 2017, 20:54:41 »
Don't use WD40 - it has almost zero lubricating properties and could wash away any existing lubrication!

I have a feeling that the internals of a chronometric speedo should be regarded in the same way as a clock mechanism and I would therefore use extreme caution before trying to lubricate it. Need to find out what form of lubrication is used in the chronometric - could be self lubricating or even greased.

Twins / Re: spark plugs
« on: 19 February, 2017, 19:34:39 »
It sounds as though it's running fine. I don't think there's anything wrong with your plugs but, if one had failed electrically the copper wire connecting the cap on the top to the central electrode might have gone open circuit so that you would have measured zero Ohms with the multi-meter.

Twins / Re: headlamp cover acorn nuts
« on: 19 February, 2017, 11:03:14 »
I believe the bolts are 5/16 BSC - you can get S/S dome nuts from

Twins / Re: Colour code BSA Goldstar
« on: 18 February, 2017, 17:08:16 »
Do you really mean RGS and are you talking about the silver or red petrol tank colour?

Twins / Re: spark plugs
« on: 18 February, 2017, 17:01:06 »
When you say they have stopped working, have you put an ohm meter between the central electrode and the cap and found they have gone open circuit? However, this would be very unusual for a modern spark plug unless the engine has been running very hot!

Or is it just the case that the engine only runs well when you put new replacement plugs in? If so, it's likely that either the engine carburation is not right or the engine has a different issue (eg poor compression or incorrect valve timing).

Twins / Re: spark plugs
« on: 18 February, 2017, 15:05:24 »
hi all, I have a 52 star twin that keeps burning out plugs, I have used B7HS NGK and champion L82C , has anyone had the same problem?i have done 150 miles since complete rebuild but never had this problem when I last had it on the road approx. 25 years ago!
This means different things to different people. When you say 'burning out' do you simply mean the plugs have stopped working electrically or do you literally mean the electrodes are burning away?

Singles / Re: B40 Front Wheel Removal
« on: 18 February, 2017, 12:08:29 »
It sounds as though there's a slight bit of corrosion between the hub and fork slider - should only need a slight bit of cleaning up afterwards. One way of releasing it would be to lever the spindle away from the bottom of the RH fork slider once the cap has been removed using a screwdriver. It might require the taper on a small slotted screwdriver to be tapped in between fork leg and spindle to get things started.

Twins / Re: A65 primary chain
« on: 17 February, 2017, 18:49:28 »
Ive measured the thrust washer and its 0.053" thick. its flat but the back face of the clutch basket is appears to be concave as the rub marks are on the outer edges of the thrust washer.  Ive used Emery paper and a flat surface to thin down the thrust washer and I can now get the centre to turn within the basket. I am going to remove another 0.001" to make it turn a little easier. I don't want it to heat up and lock up when running the bike though.
It sounds to me that you need to address the problem with the clutch basket - if you simply thin down the thrust washer, it might get the clutch basket turning freely at this point, but the washer is then likely to wear quickly because the mating surface on the clutch basket is effectively not very wide.

The Star and Garter / Re: RAF WD B40 Auction
« on: 17 February, 2017, 13:00:51 »

It looks as though it actually sold for 3700 which is perhaps a little bit more realistic given that it doesn't have an RAF engine.

Twins / Re: A65 primary chain
« on: 17 February, 2017, 10:01:22 »
I would buy a new thrust washer to be absolutely sure - they only cost a few pounds.

Twins / Re: A65 primary chain
« on: 17 February, 2017, 07:53:18 »
Thanks for the help. I've now got the primary chain on. But still have problems. The key on the clutch shaft doesn't protrude out of the shaft by very dosent look right. Also when I tighten the clutch centre nut the centre doesn't spin freely inside the clutch basket, it's locked up. Time to call it a night I think before I break something.
You have to check that the clutch centre has fitted correctly on to the shaft - sometimes, if the Woodruff key isn't a good fit, it can slip in its slot and prevent the clutch centre from fitting properly. I assume that there is now slack in the primary chain otherwise this might cause problems when you try to re-assemble the clutch?

The Star and Garter / Re: RAF WD B40 Auction
« on: 17 February, 2017, 07:41:08 »
Hi Dave.

That is still quite a low price - I'm sure he might have done much better by having auctioned it on fleebay as that would have reached a much wider audience.

Twins / Re: A65 primary chain
« on: 16 February, 2017, 19:54:52 »
Has any one had any difficulty fitting a new Renold primary chain to an A65. The chain looks to be to short.  The part number on the box is 116038, it's a 0.375" pitch and it has 80 links. The clutch basket has 58 teeth and the crank sprocket has 28 teeth. everything looks right but the chain won't fit.  Any suggestions?
Does the chain fit with the tensioner removed?

Twins / Re: Bsa valve seat depth
« on: 16 February, 2017, 19:51:51 »

He should be able to allow for the valve seat recession and be able to work out how much valve stem should be projecting above the end of the valve guide based on the current seats and valves. This dimension should then be achieved after replacing and re-cutting the valve seats (and replacing the valve guides if necessary).

Twins / Re: Bsa valve seat depth
« on: 16 February, 2017, 17:37:47 »
You would normally use the original seat profile as a guide for the new seats. Is there a reason this can't be done in your case?

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