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Messages - Arthur

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Singles / Re: WD B40 Fork Seal Holders
« on: 26 February, 2017, 19:13:21 »
They can be very difficult to move - you have to be careful applying too much force with the special tool as it can ruin the slotted ring inside the seal holders, making them even harder to unscrew. It's best to apply heat as long as you are going to re-paint the fork sliders afterwards.

Twins / Re: My fathers previous pride and joy
« on: 26 February, 2017, 17:06:38 »
Unfortunately, this is exactly what the Data Protection Act prevents the DVLA from doing!

Twins / Re: Non-branded supermarket petrols
« on: 26 February, 2017, 13:35:44 »
I've tended to go for the unleaded fuel conversion whenever I've had significant engine machining done (re-bore, plain bearing reaming, replacement valve guides, etc) because the cost of replacing the exhaust valve seats at the same time is a small percentage of the total. That said, I've never seen much evidence of valve seat recession even on my A10 iron head which had done a fair old mileage before I restored it.

Singles / Re: C15 Restoration
« on: 26 February, 2017, 09:18:49 »
Yes - it is normal. The other thing associated with rebuilding bikes is to be prepared to do a bit of fettling once completed. In my experience, you're bound to find a few issues which may need a bit of re-work, especially on the engine. Best approach is to be prepared for this and take it in your stride!

Twins / Re: Non-branded supermarket petrols
« on: 25 February, 2017, 23:50:54 »
From what you advise, though, it seems there's something else I need to look into the next time the bike is off the road, as I'd never have given the valve seats a thought.
Fortunately, it is possible to detect if significant valve seat recession is occurring by monitoring the exhaust valve clearances. If recession is taking place, you'll find the clearances will decrease with time. A few thou won't matter but if you loose significantly more clearance than this over a few thousand miles then recession might be an issue.

The Star and Garter / Re: Balancing on a bike
« on: 25 February, 2017, 11:46:38 »
If you were referring to balancing on the bike when it was moving slowly then this probably relies more on the movement of the handlebar to counter any tendency of the bike to fall to one side. However, once you reach full lock, you would then have reached the limit to which you can counter a falling motion to that side and it would then be time to put your foot on the ground to steady the bike.

The Star and Garter / Re: Balancing on a bike
« on: 25 February, 2017, 10:13:26 »

As mentioned in a previous post, all motorcycles suffer from the phenomenon of 'wheel drop'. At slow speed, as you turn the steering to one side, the height of the front suspension will drop because of the steering geometry which will create a force tending to make it turn even further. The greater the bike's trail, the greater is the force. Above a few mph, this force is countered by the gyroscopic forces from the faster rotating front wheel, which tends to keep the bike moving in a straight line.
Your Virago has a relatively large trail and hence wheel drop is very pronounced - hence, it's not an easy bike to manoeuvre at slow speed.

In answer to your question, I think it should be possible to maintain your balance on a bike at full lock providing the front brake is applied to stop it moving. I'll try it on my trail bike later!

Twins / Re: A65 Lightning Clutch Retaining Nut
« on: 24 February, 2017, 18:08:18 »
I think I may have been wrong. A65's from 1966 were fitted with clutch centre nut 68-3300 which I think may be self locking. Needs to be confirmed.

Twins / Re: A65 Lightning Clutch Retaining Nut
« on: 24 February, 2017, 16:51:10 »
Normally, a special lock washer (42-3191) with suitable tabs on it is used. That said, it seems to be missing from the 1965+ parts books for some reason, although this must be a mistake I would have thought?

Twins / Re: Non-branded supermarket petrols
« on: 24 February, 2017, 12:22:31 »
If you've got a steel petrol tank then at worst petrol will help keep it free of rust - it shouldn't have any detrimental effects whatsoever. However, if your 1968 Lightning is unmodified and hasn't had the valve seats converted for running unleaded fuel then this would be my main concern. Without conversion, the exhaust valve seats will suffer recession due to lack of the lubrication provided by the old leaded fuels. Modern fuels from different sources might well affect the rate of recession depending on what additives they contain.

Twins / Re: Non-branded supermarket petrols
« on: 23 February, 2017, 14:23:42 »
Petrol sold by different outlets is not always the same and can vary greatly. Generally, premium unleaded is rated at 95 octane but not all versions produce the same performance in your engine. If you've got an engine which is more highly tuned then you may notice the differences more than other people. With super unleaded, the octane rating can vary more (97-99) and the difference in performance may be even greater. So if you notice any differences in your engine, its probably best to stick to known brands that suit your engine.

Singles / Re: C15 ss Max speed
« on: 21 February, 2017, 09:10:34 »

As suggested previously, it would be very interesting to see the results of putting your C15 on a dynamometer. I would expect you'll find it's producing no more than 75% of the power it had when it was new. That reduction in power would almost certainly equate to the reduced top speed you are now getting! That said, 65 mph max on a C15 is probably its safety limit given its handling and brake design!

Twins / Re: My fathers previous pride and joy
« on: 20 February, 2017, 22:51:23 »

Unfortunately, when you check road tax or MOT against that registration number on the DVLA web site, it is not recognised. This would seem to indicate that it's been inactive for so long or has been scrapped, DVLA have removed it from their database?

« on: 20 February, 2017, 10:38:08 »
Apparently, the Smiths chronometric speedo main bearings are lubricated via felt pads and clock oil. If the speedo is apart, I might be tempted to give then a drop more of clock oil on these pads if you can get to them.

Singles / Re: Oil Pipe Sizes
« on: 19 February, 2017, 23:45:33 »
You need 5/16 ID herringbone oil piping. Burton Bike Bits do lengths of it but you can buy 1m or longer lengths fairly easily:

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