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Messages - AWJDThumper

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Singles / Re: Rectifier
« on: 28 February, 2017, 12:37:31 »
Also what about location the harness points to near the toolbox.
Not sure what you are asking? One of the main things you need to ensure is that you've got a good earth to the frame. Normally, you can achieve this on the C15 using the rectifier bolt though the cross member under the seat. Make sure you scrape away the paint to give good contact to the frame. The battery earth wire can go to the same point.

Pre War / Re: need help with starting procedure bsa round tank 1924
« on: 28 February, 2017, 07:56:50 »
I personally would never attempt to start a bike in this condition - you don't know what condition the motor is in and you may cause a lot of damage. If you are going to get it restored, it's best in my opinion to overhaul the motor first before trying to get it going.

Singles / Re: Star fire chain guard thread size
« on: 28 February, 2017, 07:01:45 »

It looks from the parts lists that both the 1969 and 1970 chainguard mountings were the same using the following bolts:  1/4 BSC x 3/8, 5/16 UNF x 5/8 and 3/8 BSC c 1 5/16. This is for the front bolt and the 2 rear bolts. Sounds as though you may have a different arrangement?

Singles / Re: Horns
« on: 27 February, 2017, 19:44:02 »
Hi Ho Silver Lightning, as the theme tune went!!

Twins / Re: My fathers previous pride and joy
« on: 27 February, 2017, 17:22:53 »
To expand further - Regulation 27 of the Road Vehicles (Registration and Licensing) Regulations 2002 provides:

(1) The Secretary of State may make any particulars contained in the register available for useó

(e) by any person who can show to the satisfaction of the Secretary of State that he has reasonable cause for wanting the particulars to be made available to him.

As a general rule, reasonable cause for the release of data from the DVLA vehicle register relates to motoring incidents with driver or keeper liability. These can include matters of road safety, events occurring as a consequence of vehicle use, the enforcement of road traffic legislation and the collection of taxes. In all matters regarding data release, we act responsibly and in accordance with legislation.

Singles / Re: Horns
« on: 27 February, 2017, 15:34:37 »
This tinware on a C15 or B40 is always a bit of a nightmare. What's important is that you have a complete battery carrier with all the correct brackets on it for the switch panel which normally needs a bit of shaping to slot behind the front of the oil tank on one side and the toolbox mounting frame on the other.

Singles / Re: Horns
« on: 27 February, 2017, 09:13:07 »

On most BSA bikes, the horn tends to be hidden since it looks neater that way. An alternative location for a small horn on a C15 might be at the back of the headlight shell; that is, using one of the screws that attach the headlight shell to suspension covers. This location of the horn might be what the harness is designed for.

It is always best to fit a fuse on the -ve output side of the battery. I had a C15 in my youth which caught fire after the wiring loom under the seat shorted - very embarrassing since it was parked on the junction of the Aldwych and Fleet Street at the time!

Singles / Re: WD B40 Fork Seal Holders
« on: 26 February, 2017, 19:36:49 »

Normally you just need to break the stiction after which they should unscrew easily. It's sometimes best to put your weight down on to the tool to stop it jumping out of the slotted ring and damaging the slots - a bit like trying to undo a stubborn slotted screw.   

Singles / Re: Horns
« on: 26 February, 2017, 19:30:21 »
The original horn hangs down between the oil tank and battery box and is suspended from the cross-bracket beneath the seat. There are lots of 6V motorcycle horns advertised on eBay which could be used unless you are after an original Lucas horn which will be slightly harder to find.

Singles / Re: WD B40 Fork Seal Holders
« on: 26 February, 2017, 19:13:21 »
They can be very difficult to move - you have to be careful applying too much force with the special tool as it can ruin the slotted ring inside the seal holders, making them even harder to unscrew. It's best to apply heat as long as you are going to re-paint the fork sliders afterwards.

Twins / Re: My fathers previous pride and joy
« on: 26 February, 2017, 17:06:38 »
Unfortunately, this is exactly what the Data Protection Act prevents the DVLA from doing!

Twins / Re: Non-branded supermarket petrols
« on: 26 February, 2017, 13:35:44 »
I've tended to go for the unleaded fuel conversion whenever I've had significant engine machining done (re-bore, plain bearing reaming, replacement valve guides, etc) because the cost of replacing the exhaust valve seats at the same time is a small percentage of the total. That said, I've never seen much evidence of valve seat recession even on my A10 iron head which had done a fair old mileage before I restored it.

Singles / Re: C15 Restoration
« on: 26 February, 2017, 09:18:49 »
Yes - it is normal. The other thing associated with rebuilding bikes is to be prepared to do a bit of fettling once completed. In my experience, you're bound to find a few issues which may need a bit of re-work, especially on the engine. Best approach is to be prepared for this and take it in your stride!

Twins / Re: Non-branded supermarket petrols
« on: 25 February, 2017, 23:50:54 »
From what you advise, though, it seems there's something else I need to look into the next time the bike is off the road, as I'd never have given the valve seats a thought.
Fortunately, it is possible to detect if significant valve seat recession is occurring by monitoring the exhaust valve clearances. If recession is taking place, you'll find the clearances will decrease with time. A few thou won't matter but if you loose significantly more clearance than this over a few thousand miles then recession might be an issue.

The Star and Garter / Re: Balancing on a bike
« on: 25 February, 2017, 11:46:38 »
If you were referring to balancing on the bike when it was moving slowly then this probably relies more on the movement of the handlebar to counter any tendency of the bike to fall to one side. However, once you reach full lock, you would then have reached the limit to which you can counter a falling motion to that side and it would then be time to put your foot on the ground to steady the bike.

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