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Messages - AWJDThumper

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Singles / Re: BSA M20 Engine No
« on: 02 March, 2017, 15:10:56 »

I believe it signifies that the army replaced the original engine and then typed their own serial number on it starting with B. This was not uncommon for the WM20.

Twins / Re: A65L Starting problems
« on: 02 March, 2017, 12:57:36 »
I would start by checking everything is adjusted correctly, including the tappets. When you say the timing is correct, presumably you've only done this statically rather than using a strobe at this point? If so, I would double check the initial setting.

It could be fuel starvation but a full float bowl of fuel should let the engine run for quite a few seconds. It sounds as though it's cutting out quicker than this which might suggest it's not the carb, especially since you've swapped for a Mikuni! You can always take the drain plug out of the Mikuni and check fuel flows into the carb ok.

If it's not the timing or carburation, it might be necessary to check the engine has been put back together starting with the valve timing. This is not that difficult to do on a twin but needs a timing disk fitted.

Twins / Re: My fathers previous pride and joy
« on: 02 March, 2017, 11:21:23 »
stamp + £5  :)

Bantam / Re: D10 electrics
« on: 02 March, 2017, 08:40:49 »
Sorry - didn't notice the title! If it's a D10 then its got a fairly conventional alternator in which case you need to measure the resistance between each pair of output wires which will determine whether the internal wiring or one of the coils has failed. More times than not, it's likely to be the wiring harness, the switches or the rectifier that is the cause of the problem.

Bantam / Re: D10 electrics
« on: 02 March, 2017, 08:37:42 »
I think that would be a very expensive solution to the problem! First off, which Bantam have you got and have you checked the output from the generator directly by putting a voltmeter on the output wire(s)? Even if there's no measurable output, it would be worth taking off the generator to examine its condition - you may find a broken connection.

Singles / Re: WD B40 Forks
« on: 01 March, 2017, 19:27:46 »
Here's the parts diagram from a 1969 B44 showing the oil ring. Ironically, they have shown the spacer upside-down just to confuse everybody!

I normally use a large adjustable wrench angled down at the nut which is not ideal but usually does the trick.

Singles / Re: WD B40 Forks
« on: 01 March, 2017, 18:32:34 »
It is an original fitment and it's there to stop the top bush from chattering rather than to act as a seal. There's no available part number as far as I can see but I've just taken a 3/4" ID O-ring and stretched it to fit. Slightly better than re-using the original.

Singles / Re: Rectifier
« on: 28 February, 2017, 12:37:31 »
Also what about location the harness points to near the toolbox.
Not sure what you are asking? One of the main things you need to ensure is that you've got a good earth to the frame. Normally, you can achieve this on the C15 using the rectifier bolt though the cross member under the seat. Make sure you scrape away the paint to give good contact to the frame. The battery earth wire can go to the same point.

Pre War / Re: need help with starting procedure bsa round tank 1924
« on: 28 February, 2017, 07:56:50 »
I personally would never attempt to start a bike in this condition - you don't know what condition the motor is in and you may cause a lot of damage. If you are going to get it restored, it's best in my opinion to overhaul the motor first before trying to get it going.

Singles / Re: Star fire chain guard thread size
« on: 28 February, 2017, 07:01:45 »

It looks from the parts lists that both the 1969 and 1970 chainguard mountings were the same using the following bolts:  1/4 BSC x 3/8, 5/16 UNF x 5/8 and 3/8 BSC c 1 5/16. This is for the front bolt and the 2 rear bolts. Sounds as though you may have a different arrangement?

Singles / Re: Horns
« on: 27 February, 2017, 19:44:02 »
Hi Ho Silver Lightning, as the theme tune went!!

Twins / Re: My fathers previous pride and joy
« on: 27 February, 2017, 17:22:53 »
To expand further - Regulation 27 of the Road Vehicles (Registration and Licensing) Regulations 2002 provides:

(1) The Secretary of State may make any particulars contained in the register available for useó

(e) by any person who can show to the satisfaction of the Secretary of State that he has reasonable cause for wanting the particulars to be made available to him.

As a general rule, reasonable cause for the release of data from the DVLA vehicle register relates to motoring incidents with driver or keeper liability. These can include matters of road safety, events occurring as a consequence of vehicle use, the enforcement of road traffic legislation and the collection of taxes. In all matters regarding data release, we act responsibly and in accordance with legislation.

Singles / Re: Horns
« on: 27 February, 2017, 15:34:37 »
This tinware on a C15 or B40 is always a bit of a nightmare. What's important is that you have a complete battery carrier with all the correct brackets on it for the switch panel which normally needs a bit of shaping to slot behind the front of the oil tank on one side and the toolbox mounting frame on the other.

Singles / Re: Horns
« on: 27 February, 2017, 09:13:07 »

On most BSA bikes, the horn tends to be hidden since it looks neater that way. An alternative location for a small horn on a C15 might be at the back of the headlight shell; that is, using one of the screws that attach the headlight shell to suspension covers. This location of the horn might be what the harness is designed for.

It is always best to fit a fuse on the -ve output side of the battery. I had a C15 in my youth which caught fire after the wiring loom under the seat shorted - very embarrassing since it was parked on the junction of the Aldwych and Fleet Street at the time!

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