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Messages - Arthur

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 7
16
Twins / Re: A65 - O rings
« on: 04 March, 2017, 23:57:31 »
The sizes of some of the O-rings are available. What year is your A65?

17
Twins / Re: A65 - O rings
« on: 04 March, 2017, 15:29:04 »
The A65 engine only uses a handful of O-rings and some of these are available from parts suppliers under the appropriate part numbers. For less critical ones, for example, as a seal for the oil release plug, it is normally sufficient just to pick an appropriate imperial size from an O-ring set.

18
The Star and Garter / Re: Replcement engine
« on: 04 March, 2017, 10:09:07 »
It's not a Dating Certificate I was recommending which, of course, only the Dating Officer can provide. However, a forum member previously posted that he was able to get the despatch information for his bike from the General Secretary relatively quickly which is what I was suggesting this member try.

19
The Star and Garter / Re: Replcement engine
« on: 04 March, 2017, 08:17:32 »
Are you saying that you bought the bike on the basis that the engine and frame number matched but you have now found that the engine number is different and relates to post-1969? Or are you saying the numbers still match but there is some feature you can see on the engine cases which makes them post-1969?

Either way, if you contact the club's National Secretary and tell him what the frame number and engine number is, he'll be able to tell you when it left the factory and in what form (hopefully, as an A65T).

20
Singles / Re: Wiring loom / harness
« on: 04 March, 2017, 07:59:17 »
Can you provide a picture of the wrong wiring harness you've got so that we can try to identify what it's off. The harness needs to be laid out flat, fully extended to be able to do this. If we can identify what it's off then someone on the forum might want to buy it off you.

21
Twins / Re: A65 Oil pump diffences
« on: 03 March, 2017, 16:50:38 »
Sorry, 1/4" ball bearing  :)

22
Twins / Re: A65 Oil pump diffences
« on: 03 March, 2017, 16:49:48 »
I would assume it's there in order to provide a wider sealing surface for the NRV 1/3 ball bearing. The mod compared with earlier pumps may have been to make the sealing more effective?

23
Singles / Re: More C15 Woes
« on: 03 March, 2017, 13:43:55 »
Yes - you need to remove the bolt that screws into the swinging arm spindle which also holds the lower member of the sub-frame in place.

24
Singles / Re: More C15 Woes
« on: 03 March, 2017, 12:35:35 »
Just checked. The switch is mounted under the LH swinging arm pivot bolt and is activated by a small pin that projects inwards at the backend of the brake lever.

25
Singles / Re: More C15 Woes
« on: 03 March, 2017, 12:28:48 »
Tim.

This type of stop light switch is normally operated by a small bracket attached to the backend of the brake lever which pushes against the moving arm on the switch. The switch must therefore be mounted just above the brake lever pivot point as on an A65. Didn't think this type of switch was fitted to a C15 but will go away and check.

26
The Star and Garter / Re: 6v to 12v
« on: 03 March, 2017, 08:54:50 »
Although the current through the horn will double, my gut feeling is that it should be able to take it with 12V. However, the frequency of the horn will also double and so it might sound a bit tinny afterwards. Simplest thing is to test it on a 12V battery and see what happens.

27
Singles / Re: BSA M20 Engine No
« on: 02 March, 2017, 19:26:38 »
Next time you're near Oxford, I'll be only too happy to show you my Dandy! You might also be interested in my ex-army bikes.

28
Bantam / Re: D10 electrics
« on: 02 March, 2017, 16:37:40 »

29
Singles / Re: BSA M20 Engine No
« on: 02 March, 2017, 15:10:56 »
Mike.

I believe it signifies that the army replaced the original engine and then typed their own serial number on it starting with B. This was not uncommon for the WM20.

30
Twins / Re: A65L Starting problems
« on: 02 March, 2017, 12:57:36 »
I would start by checking everything is adjusted correctly, including the tappets. When you say the timing is correct, presumably you've only done this statically rather than using a strobe at this point? If so, I would double check the initial setting.

It could be fuel starvation but a full float bowl of fuel should let the engine run for quite a few seconds. It sounds as though it's cutting out quicker than this which might suggest it's not the carb, especially since you've swapped for a Mikuni! You can always take the drain plug out of the Mikuni and check fuel flows into the carb ok.

If it's not the timing or carburation, it might be necessary to check the engine has been put back together starting with the valve timing. This is not that difficult to do on a twin but needs a timing disk fitted.

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