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Messages - AWJDThumper

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 21
1
Singles / Re: B40 wiring advice and spacer advice
« on: Today at 19:53:31 »
Both my C15 and B40 are quite late models. From the parts books, it looks as though the earlier models had thinner lower ends on the rear sub-frames where the bolts go through to attach it to the swinging arm spindle. In these cases, the spacer is presumably there to correctly position the stop light switch relative to the brake pedal. On the later models, the ends of he sub-frame are much wider and hence the spacer wasn't required.

2
The first picture shows the standard C15 inlet hose fitted over the outlet from my B40 filter - the hose stretches easily. The second picture shows my filter with the corrugated plate now fitted.

3
Singles / Re: B40 wiring advice and spacer advice
« on: Today at 17:11:30 »
The picture shows the stop light switch fitted to my C15 without the spacer fitted. From this it can be seen that there is actually no room for the spacer to perform any useful function. My B40 is exactly the same. Can't really see why you would need a spacer between the bolt and switch mounting plate.

4
Singles / Re: B40 wiring advice and spacer advice
« on: Today at 05:20:15 »
After a bit more research, I think spacer 41-4055 is intended to be the stop light distance collar. That said, I notice that neither my C15 or B40 has it fitted and so I need to look into why it is necessary. This probably also answers an earlier question as to why the LH swinging arm pivot bolt needs to be longer than the RH one - it's to accommodate the distance collar!

5
On reflection, I think the perforated, concave end cover is completely unnecessary and is just an piece of over engineering by BSA. You need to ask yourself what the filter is designed to keep out of the engine with the main concern being abrasive dust. In that regard, the perforated plate plays absolutely no role in keeping out the dust (that's the job of the inner filter) and, at most, will filter out larger particles which the inner filter will do anyway. So unless you are restoring the B40 to factory spec (like I did), I would not worry about the perforated plate.

6
Singles / Re: B40 Star air filter - what's the best option now
« on: 20 February, 2018, 22:47:55 »
I'll post a picture of the perforated end cap. I thought I had a spare but it turned out the one that was missing from my B40 filter!

7
Singles / Re: B40 wiring advice and spacer advice
« on: 20 February, 2018, 18:23:40 »
When I restored my B40 a few years ago, I positioned the components coil, horn, rectifier from left to right looking forward. Harness passed down RH side of top tube. Parts diagram is a little confusing. Part 41-4055 is listed as engine/frame spacer and the usual places are either between engine and frame for either the bottom or front bolts though I can't remember from memory if the B40 has either.

8
Twins / Re: Headlight bulb lighting
« on: 20 February, 2018, 18:00:54 »
Is the lighting switch shown in the 1973 diagram not a 3-way, 8 terminal Lucas 57SA toggle switch?

9
Twins / Re: Headlight bulb lighting
« on: 20 February, 2018, 16:39:29 »
It sounds as the two-position ignition switch and separate lighting switch relate to those of a 1973 A65 as shown?


10
Singles / Re: C15 lighting
« on: 20 February, 2018, 14:50:46 »
Thanks Arther
Actually the light has been very high since rebuild.
I can't see how to adjust but will take your advice and obtain another bulb.
In that case, as said by Julian, you may have to adjust the alignment ring on the headlight. When you do this, you need to adjust the alignment of the dipped beam to make sure it satisfies the MOT alignment template for your bike. The main beam should then be ok unless there is a problem with the bulb.

11
Singles / Re: Tappet cover sealing washer/"O" ring
« on: 20 February, 2018, 14:44:08 »
They should be flat sealing washers. There would have to be a bevel in the mating surfaces to allow an O-ring to be used.

12
The Star and Garter / Re: Gold Star admirers in the sixties
« on: 20 February, 2018, 13:05:59 »
Was Milletts a scooter shop on Westgate road?

13
Singles / Re: B40 Star air filter - what's the best option now
« on: 20 February, 2018, 11:06:14 »
hoogerbooger. The ideal solution would be to acquire a suitable metal adaptor tube which pushes through the hole from the back of the rear panel and then screws on to the end of the carb. The filter would then be a push fit into the end of the adaptor. When I got my B40, I had to machine up a suitable adaptor for the filter.

The proper filter has a 10 mm flange on it relative to the 5 mm flange on the attached type of filter - however, the latter is still sufficient for the metal adaptor. As an alternative, I would be tempted to use a suitable length of rubber or plastic tube which can be held on to the end of the carb with a Jubilee clip and then glue or expoxy the filter into the other end. Of course, you would need to remove the filter from the rear panel you have which is held on by 3 thin welds if similar to mine. I would use a cutting disk on a Dremel to cut through the welds.


14
Twins / Re: Headlight bulb lighting
« on: 20 February, 2018, 09:19:25 »
Not sure that I've ever heard of dipped beam AND main beam on a M/C before. Please provide a copy of the wiring diagram you are working to and I'll be happy to provide any help I can.

15
Singles / Re: B40WD gearbox oil level
« on: 20 February, 2018, 09:16:55 »
If it's the sprocket seal then it's likely to leak more oil over night if you leave it on the sidestand rather than the centre stand.

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