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Messages - AWJDThumper

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 22
1
Twins / Re: No access
« on: Today at 08:33:45 »
This one is designed for a Monobloc although it doesn't have a nice knob on the end which I'm sure could be easily added:

https://surreycycles.com/product/monobloc-tickler-extension/

2
Twins / Re: No access
« on: 24 February, 2018, 23:38:35 »
I doubt if a concentric tickler extension will fit a monobloc carb but they probably do the correct one.

3
Twins / Re: Headlight bulb lighting
« on: 24 February, 2018, 18:14:39 »
19-1095 or Lucas switch 31276 as shown below was used for OIF B25/B50's.


4
Singles / Re: Tappet cover sealing washer/"O" ring
« on: 23 February, 2018, 07:49:58 »
Any screw in plug needs a much stronger sealing washer to be used, be it fibre, plastic, copper or aluminium.

5
Singles / Re: Tappet cover sealing washer/"O" ring
« on: 22 February, 2018, 19:39:14 »
It's simply that the rocker caps are rotating when they try to compress the gasket - this produces a shear force in the paper gasket which will tend to tear it apart (the shear force tries to move the top of the paper one way and the bottom of the paper the other way). The gasket under the oval inspection cover is not subject to a shear force but just a simple compressive force. 

6
Singles / Re: Tappet cover sealing washer/"O" ring
« on: 22 February, 2018, 18:57:29 »
A paper gasket is not strong enough to take the shear forces involved in tightening up the rocket caps - a fibre washer is.

7
Singles / Re: Tappet cover sealing washer/"O" ring
« on: 22 February, 2018, 17:58:21 »
They need to be fibre washers - I don't think they are hard to find:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-OF-40-0182-BSA-C15-B40-B44-ROCKER-INSPECTION-CAP-WASHERS-/272916031800

8
I'm not sure there are any left in the UK but what particular service were you after?

9
Singles / Re: Valve guides
« on: 22 February, 2018, 11:22:15 »
It's best to heat up the head first and then press them in rather than using a hammer and drift. Cooling the valves first won't doing any harm and may help.

10
Singles / Re: Clutch cable routing
« on: 22 February, 2018, 11:20:27 »
The normal route is down the LH side of the top tube and then down behind the rear panel to the left of the battery and then out underneath the rear panel to the clutch lever on the outer timing cover. It's best to try to achieve the biggest bend radii you can.

11
Singles / Re: B40 wiring advice and spacer advice
« on: 21 February, 2018, 19:53:31 »
Both my C15 and B40 are quite late models. From the parts books, it looks as though the earlier models had thinner lower ends on the rear sub-frames where the bolts go through to attach it to the swinging arm spindle. In these cases, the spacer is presumably there to correctly position the stop light switch relative to the brake pedal. On the later models, the ends of he sub-frame are much wider and hence the spacer wasn't required.

12
Singles / Re: B40 Star air filter - what's the best option now
« on: 21 February, 2018, 17:24:02 »
The first picture shows the standard C15 inlet hose fitted over the outlet from my B40 filter - the hose stretches easily. The second picture shows my filter with the corrugated plate now fitted.

13
Singles / Re: B40 wiring advice and spacer advice
« on: 21 February, 2018, 17:11:30 »
The picture shows the stop light switch fitted to my C15 without the spacer fitted. From this it can be seen that there is actually no room for the spacer to perform any useful function. My B40 is exactly the same. Can't really see why you would need a spacer between the bolt and switch mounting plate.

14
Singles / Re: B40 wiring advice and spacer advice
« on: 21 February, 2018, 05:20:15 »
After a bit more research, I think spacer 41-4055 is intended to be the stop light distance collar. That said, I notice that neither my C15 or B40 has it fitted and so I need to look into why it is necessary. This probably also answers an earlier question as to why the LH swinging arm pivot bolt needs to be longer than the RH one - it's to accommodate the distance collar!

15
Singles / Re: B40 Star air filter - what's the best option now
« on: 21 February, 2018, 05:13:06 »
On reflection, I think the perforated, concave end cover is completely unnecessary and is just an piece of over engineering by BSA. You need to ask yourself what the filter is designed to keep out of the engine with the main concern being abrasive dust. In that regard, the perforated plate plays absolutely no role in keeping out the dust (that's the job of the inner filter) and, at most, will filter out larger particles which the inner filter will do anyway. So unless you are restoring the B40 to factory spec (like I did), I would not worry about the perforated plate.

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