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Messages - MALCOLM.JOHNSON

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1
The Star and Garter / Re: dvla new commitie
« on: 20 January, 2018, 21:42:21 »
Received my age related registration this morning. It took well over a month to complete and included a further inspection for the DVLA, by some contractor for the DVLA. This process is getting harder each and every time I undertake it. I think the next project had better come to me with documents!

2
The Star and Garter / Re: dvla new commitie
« on: 05 January, 2018, 20:51:31 »
Received notification today from the DVLA that they wish to inspect my machine, which is apparently done by "SGS", whoever they are. No mention of date of manufacture or details on the dating certificate, so I can only presume that part of it is ok? I have booked the inspection for next Tuesday. We will see what happens next?

3
The Star and Garter / Re: dvla new commitie
« on: 24 December, 2017, 21:22:59 »
Date of manufacture? very worrying, as I type, I have an age related application with the DVLA. The frame has a despatch date of 3rd July 1952 and since the engine is the original engine, must obviously also been despatched on the same day too. Crank cases are matched, but stamped on the drive side case is the date 6-3-52 and on the timing side case is 8-2-52. Whether this indicates casting or machining dates I do not know, but how can an accurate date of manufacture be ascertained. Clearly mine took several months to come together!

4
Singles / Re: shimming brake shoes
« on: 21 December, 2017, 19:29:23 »
Be careful. The brake cams on BSA`s will impart a rubbing action, direct on your new "shims" and wear or displace very quickly if using tin cans as your shim source. If it jams it could pitch you off or at least damage the drum further.  The other thing that may be possible is to reverse the lever on its shaft as they usually are made offset to the square and may position your lever at a more advantageous angle. Alternatively, get some 5mm stainless sheet and custom make your own lever - if you have access to a vice, drill, hacksaw and square file - or if your lever has a square hole, make it an "8 pointer". Much easier than you might imagine. 

5
Pre War / Re: 1932 Blue Star
« on: 14 December, 2017, 17:06:02 »
I could not be totally sure, but I think the pedal was always on the left in 1932, for no other reason than the rear brake drum is on the RHS and drive sprocket on the LHS - so the fitment of the wheel cannot be reversed. My 32 BS has a crossover shaft with squared ends and threaded after for nuts to hold the brake pedal on the LHS and the actuating arm on the RHS. A totally different brake pedal and lever combined would be needed for RHS fitment and a plain collar for the LHS to hold it all in place. My BS has linked front and rear brakes when using the brake pedal, via a twin pull cable device, mounted on the forks. I have plenty of pictures, but would need to learn how to downsize them for the forum. Otherwise PM me and I can e-mail full size pictures direct. I have just looked at the parts diagrams ( I think downloadable from BSAOC or VMCC library) and only LHS brake pedal is shown? Hope this helps.

6
Pre War / Re: 1932 Blue star HELP!
« on: 30 November, 2017, 21:00:09 »
I have sent you a PM. Look in your messages. Malcolm.

7
Pre War / Re: 1932 Blue star HELP!
« on: 30 November, 2017, 17:48:52 »
Measuring those is easier said than done. The ones at the rear of the gearbox plates were easy to measure, as I did originally make a pair slightly different to assist with drive chain alignment when I was commissioning the bike and the original ones I saved are 20mm (os) and 44mm (ns) - I changed to something like 22mm and 42mm to offset the rear of the gearbox towards the ns slightly. I would temporarily make the rear spacers to near original sizes given out of suitable tubing, which should give you enough of a guide to assemble the frame parts and work on chain and wheel alignments. Without lying the bike right over it is very difficult for me to measure the engine ones. I would need the bike outside and one of my pals here to hold the bike. When you come to make the spacers proper, they are waisted, not a plain thick walled tube. Have fun!   

8
Pre War / Re: 1932 Blue star HELP!
« on: 28 November, 2017, 20:34:29 »
No problem, but because I do not visit the forum every day, I suggest that you PM me with the information you require. Malcolm.

9
Twins / Re: Bsa crank bushing size?
« on: 28 November, 2017, 11:01:12 »
I will be very surprised that your timing side crank shaft journal is both truly round and truly cylindrical, commonly known as ovality and taper respectively. However if it is within wear limits (which involves measuring at the front of the journal across diameters at 90 degrees to each other and then the same at the rear), that is good, but you will still find that your "ordered to size" bush will still arrive undersize to enable it to be "line bored" to size after fitting. The actual fitting process will distort and crush the hole very slightly, which is why they bored after fitting and that process also ensures that not only is the bush of correct size but also both main bearings line up exactly. I suggest that you locate an engineer in your area to fit and size the bearing for you. It is a job that you simply cannot buy the part and expect it to fit correctly.

10
Pre War / Re: 1932 Blue star HELP!
« on: 25 November, 2017, 11:07:49 »
Been on my back under the Blue Star this morning - freezing it was too! 1. This is as you say crankcase width which is on mine 4 1/8 inch. 2. Difficult to achieve an accurate figure without removing the rear wheel, but you will be very close at 6 1/8 inch. 3. Also governed by the crankcase rear through bolt, but the bosses for the brake rod (a couple of inches to the rear of that bolt), are 4 1/4 inches apart. Personally I would base measurements for 1 and 3, by fitting the bare engine crankcase in place. I have used fractional imperial units as I believe that is what would have been used at the time. Hope this helps. PM me if you need further details.  Malcolm.

11
Pre War / Re: 1932 Blue star HELP!
« on: 24 November, 2017, 17:17:10 »
My 32 Blue Star has, what I would call a "square" sump with rounded corners to the front, with the filler cap to the right. Brake pedal is on left with crossover to front and rear brakes (dual braking off pedal). Right hand handlebar lever operates front brake only.

12
Pre War / Re: 1932 Blue star HELP!
« on: 24 November, 2017, 11:05:49 »
Hi Fred, I have a very original 32 Blue Star which is a 500, but I am sure all other details will be the same. Let me know what measurements you require. I am in North Yorkshire.

13
Twins / Re: Torque settings again.
« on: 12 November, 2017, 21:40:35 »
Thanks to you both - I will have a celebratory drink ;D

14
Twins / Torque settings again.
« on: 11 November, 2017, 14:15:12 »
I have recently rebuilt the 1952 A7 engine and tightened the big end caps on the alloy connecting rods using data from the BSA SERVICE SHEET No.208. My rods use the later 26 t.p.i. bolts and the  recommended torque setting for those in the service sheet is 8.5 lbs.ft. Sometime afterwards I was reading the D. W. Munro book on BSA Twins and in this he quotes 22lbs.ft. for all the models. I borrowed a very hi tech torque wrench for the job as my own was off the scale at such a low setting. I am having sleepless nights about using the lower figure - any words of comfort out there.

15
I personally do not understand the DVLA`s point. How else could my machine physically bear the number plates as one of the four allocated registrations reserved by the dealer at the same time BSA factory records show it despatched to the very same dealer - I cannot imagine any scenario to achieve that. At some stage they will have to issue a registration for the machine, age related, Q, or even if I could prove a link to the chassis number, it would still be non - transferrable. So if I can show a good connection to the machine for that number - which I believe I can, what does it matter if they issue that number, because no one can actually make a monetary gain, but importantly to those of us interested in old motorbikes, the history of the machine stays in tact, despite the fact that the machine has not been used for years. The bike will need a number so it might as well be its original one!

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