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Messages - STAR TWIN

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Singles / Re: WD B40 Fuse
« on: 18 March, 2017, 17:36:07 »
The fuse, as mentioned, is to stop wires burning out in the event of a short circuit. So a 35A glass fuse is OK for that. It's what I have in my bikes.
You can get all sophisticated and have fuses for various circuits and relays for the headlight for example but that's not how they came out of the factory.
As an indicator of electrical sophistication, my 1951 Land Rover has just one fuse. The workshop manual states that in event of fuses blowing, fit a higher rated fuse. Things have moved on since then.

Singles / Re: B31 with odd frame number
« on: 18 March, 2017, 17:30:23 »
If the frame number does not match the V5c, it ain't legal.

Twins / Re: BSA A10 Super Rocket rewire
« on: 18 March, 2017, 06:56:41 »
Your A10 should be positive earth. The first check is to be sure the dynamo is working and correct polarity. Remove the F and D dynamo leads. Make up a jumper wire and connect the dynamo F and D terminals together. Connect one terminal of a voltmeter to the jumper wire and the other to earth. Start your bike. You should get a reading on your voltmeter on a fast tickover - up to 26 volts if you rev it (not recommended). You should then deduce the polarity of your dynamo.
If it's positive, your shop has made an arse of your wiring and you should start by reversing your battery leads. If it's negative they've at least got that bit right.       

The Star and Garter / Re: Balancing on a bike
« on: 11 March, 2017, 06:40:32 »
It might cure one problem but is might well pose others - beware the law of unintended consequences. Would your insurers be happy with an unauthorised alteration to your frame geometry?

The Star and Garter / Re: TRike
« on: 08 March, 2017, 06:46:32 »
A simpler option is of course the sidecar. Many may sneer but they can be an absolute hoot.

The Star and Garter / Re: 1957 Super Rocket
« on: 08 March, 2017, 06:43:42 »
No but I do like the pedestrian emasculator on the front mudguard on the brochure.

Twins / Re: A10 SRM Five gear custer
« on: 07 March, 2017, 14:21:07 »
The STD swinging arm BSA box has a bit of a gap between 2nd and 3rd gear. However, the A10 engine is sufficiently flexible and torquey that you really don't notice it. Try the normal 4 speed first before going to the expense of a 5 speed cluster.

Twins / Re: A65 Piston advice
« on: 01 March, 2017, 14:23:54 »
Would be interested to know what SRM recommended.

I'll be there on Sunday - may just get on on Saturday afternoon if I can.

The Star and Garter / Re: Spark plugs
« on: 28 February, 2017, 06:23:29 »
There are plenty of equivalents out there. I use NGK B7ES.

Twins / Re: Non-branded supermarket petrols
« on: 25 February, 2017, 17:52:33 »
A65s have alloy heads with valve seat inserts which are hard enough to cope with unleaded petrol, so no worries there. There were lots of scare stories about valve seat recession in cast iron heads but actual cases are relatively uncommon. I've had no problems with my iron-headed B31, A7 and Land Rovers.

I gather the club will be there. I'll be there on the VMCC stand with my Star Twin as well.

The Star and Garter / Re: tax discs
« on: 25 February, 2017, 06:55:15 »
I've been really boring and bought some reproduction tax discs for when the bikes were first registered. I can remember when it wasn't that uncommon to see Guinness beer labels where there should have been a legitimate tax disc. Now that would be a proper period accessory. 

Twins / Re: Non-branded supermarket petrols
« on: 24 February, 2017, 14:38:59 »
The problem with ethanol in petrol is that it is hygroscopic. With moisture in the air being absorbed, you can end up with an ethanol/water mix lurking in the bottom of your petrol tank and hence corrosion. You certainly notice this in older Japanese bikes with tanks made from fairly thin steel. The sudden rise in new petrol tanks available from India gives a hint that this is affecting our old bikes too. As an aside, speaking to a heating engineer, I was told that nowadays 90% of his callouts are due to water contamination in heating oil. All started when ethanol started to be added...

Twins / Re: Non-branded supermarket petrols
« on: 23 February, 2017, 15:07:26 »
Supermarket fuel is generally considered to have a higher ethanol content than forecourt fuel and, due to the price war, a reduced amount of the additives that counter the effects of ethanol. Morrisons by word of mouth has a particularly poor reputation. Our local car repair business makes a strong point of warning customers off supermarket fuel.
One thing to bear in mind is that octane ratings are not measured in the same manner as they were when out bikes were new. You can as an approximation knock off a few points. So current 98 octane is about the same as the old 95 octane.
If you must use supermarket fuel, be kind to your carb and shut off the petrol before you stop and let the engine run out of fuel. That way should avoid the insidious corrosion caused by fuel/ethanol/water lurking therein. A splash of 2 stroke oil in the petrol won't do any harm.     

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