Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - STAR TWIN

Pages: 1 ... 4 5 [6] 7 8 9
76
Twins / Re: A65 Thunderbolt 5 speed conversion
« on: 17 April, 2017, 10:00:33 »
What exactly is the problem? Is it undergeared for Highway use? If so, a gearbox sprocket with an extra tooth or two would solve the problem.
5 speed boxes (expensive!) generally don't affect top and bottom gear ratios - they just make the jump between ratios smaller.

77
Twins / Re: Gearbox squeal!
« on: 08 April, 2017, 22:53:42 »
Last time I came across this was in a B40 with insufficient oil in the gearbox. I would go with a drain and refill and see how it goes. It worked with the B40.

78
Twins / Re: Which spark plugs to use?? A10
« on: 02 April, 2017, 17:40:47 »
I Use NGK B7ES in my alloy head A10. Be careful to avoid resistor plugs. Not suitable for magneto ignition. Take a look at the Green Spark Plug Co website - lots of info there.

79
The Star and Garter / Re: Unfortunate Error?
« on: 01 April, 2017, 06:20:26 »
Had I known, there are a pair I could have advertised...

80
The Star and Garter / Re: TYRE SIZES/PRESSURES FRONT AND REAR
« on: 30 March, 2017, 18:52:45 »
It's interesting how recommended pressures have gone up so much over the years. The Pitman's book states 18 front and 20 rear, 28 psi if carrying a pillion. Has crossply tyre construction changed radically in the meantime? I can understand that you need higher pressures in the 28-32 psi range with radial tyre construction with very flexible sidewalls.
Does over-inflation reduce the contact patch significantly? I rather suspect high tyre pressures would adversely affect wet roadholding.  I compromise and go for 22 front and 25 rear. No odd wear patterns noted.

81
The Star and Garter / Re: TYRE SIZES/PRESSURES FRONT AND REAR
« on: 30 March, 2017, 07:13:52 »
Were it up to me (having a swinging arm A10 and a plunger A7) I would put the 4.10 on the back of the A7 and 3.25s on the front of both.
Both of mine have 3.35 x 19 Avon AM26 on the front and 3.50 x 19 Avon SM MkII on the back. The SMs come in for some stick but they aren't at all bad. Much better than part-worn TT100s in the wet as I discovered.

82
The Star and Garter / Re: TYRE SIZES/PRESSURES FRONT AND REAR
« on: 28 March, 2017, 17:19:12 »
Damn! I was hoping no-one would notice that. But then again, it was designed that way.

83
The Star and Garter / Re: TYRE SIZES/PRESSURES FRONT AND REAR
« on: 28 March, 2017, 07:28:09 »
P.S. Low tyre pressures meant that the tyre was able to flex and that the tyre were acting as part of the suspension. Should you ever ride a veteran with a rigid frame and skinny beaded edge tyres (45 to 50 psi or they come off the rim) you will realise that tyres at low pressures do add a bit of comfort to the ride.

84
The Star and Garter / Re: TYRE SIZES/PRESSURES FRONT AND REAR
« on: 28 March, 2017, 07:24:54 »
Perhaps it's because the rear carries more weight, especially with a pillion passenger. Narrow section front tyres also impart greater stability to the bike. Putting a 4.10 on the front of a Norton Commando makes it more prone to weaves and shakes than when it has a 3.60 for instance. The tyre contact patch is an oval. With a narrow front tyre, the long axis is in the direction of travel. With a wide tyre, the long axis is at 90 degrees to the direction of travel. OK on the back, not so good on the front. One of my pet hates is bobbers. Minimal mudguards (in Britain, really?) and fat front tyres. Bet the handling isn't what is should be.
Grump over. 

85
Twins / Re: Nuts
« on: 27 March, 2017, 18:57:21 »
Don't know which model of BSA you have, but my bikes all have plain nuts and washers on the crankcases. No loctite. I've never had a problem with them slackening off. If you look hard enough, you will find the odd nyloc nut here and there elsewhere.
If the nuts are torqued up correctly on clean dry threads you should have no problems.

86
Twins / Re: Engine tear down
« on: 23 March, 2017, 07:24:54 »
One oil for everything - I am almost as bad. Tractor universal 10-30 is in my primary chaincases and forks. The lighter weight oil seems to make the fork action a bit more supple.
20-50 is probably fine in the gearbox but I use Morris's classic gear oil. Gearboxes are sturdy things and generally behave as long as there is oil in them. It's not as though we are putting massive torque through them. 

87
Twins / Re: Engine tear down
« on: 22 March, 2017, 14:08:40 »
As Eddie says, avoid the flushing oil. I once wrecked an Enfield by flushing it. It loosened a bit of debris which then cunningly blocked an oilway. I would recommend just using a reputable multigrade. 

88
Twins / Re: Engine tear down
« on: 22 March, 2017, 06:34:06 »
In my younger days I stripped and rebuilt engines far too often and pretty much invariably pointlessly. Oil tanks are prone to collect sludge - in fact it could be argued that they are designed to do it. The manuals state that the oil tank should be cleaned out at regular intervals. So clean out the tank, change the oil reasonably regularly - particularly if you do a lot of short runs - and keep on riding. 

89
Singles / Re: RAF WD B40 Rebuild
« on: 20 March, 2017, 06:38:01 »
My shed started off spacious, clean and tidy...

90
Singles / Re: B31 with odd frame number
« on: 18 March, 2017, 22:33:28 »
With the frame and V5c numbers matching it will be legal as far as DVLA are concerned. However, the frame number has clearly been changed at some time in its past and you have to wonder why. There's no need to re-stamp a legitimate frame.

Pages: 1 ... 4 5 [6] 7 8 9