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Messages - STAR TWIN

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 9
Singles / Re: Trial run
« on: 13 July, 2017, 16:56:00 »
Backfiring on the over-run when hot is frequently air getting into the exhaust where the pipe enters the cylinder head. Exhaust paste or even RTV should sort it.

Twins / Re: air/choke worth fitting on concentric carbs?
« on: 12 July, 2017, 20:24:57 »
Fit chokes. They are there for a reason. If your A10 never needs a choke to start, you are probably running a bit rich on pilot jet and/or cutaway.

The Star and Garter / Re: Correct number plate format
« on: 04 July, 2017, 18:05:03 »
Might be worth checking with the DVLA database to be sure you are not cloning an existing vehicle. You might be safer with BSA 650 J as mentioned in my first post. Correct format but also instructive to the casual onlooker.

The Star and Garter / Re: Correct number plate format
« on: 04 July, 2017, 06:46:06 »
From fading memory BSA 650 J should be about right for Jul 71.

Singles / Re: Number Plates
« on: 01 July, 2017, 13:50:10 »
I have always used stick-on numbers. Mine are cut from reflective tape and do show up brilliantly in headlights. As far as I understand, out old bikes run under grandfather rights. Only more modern vehicles require very specific types of number plate. You see veterans with painted numerics and they are certainly legal - there was no alternative when they were built.

Twins / Re: Newbie first classic advise
« on: 30 June, 2017, 06:47:03 »
Take someone who knows classic bikes with you.

Twins / Re: Identify engine casing
« on: 18 June, 2017, 13:44:13 »
It looks very non-standard. A suitable rubber grommet might keep the mank out.

Singles / Re: B33 petrol tank
« on: 03 June, 2017, 10:27:55 »
It was often said that you should do all your maintenance with the tools in your bike toolkit. Very true. Fitted a new tube to the front wheel of my Star Twin yesterday and discovered that the bike toolkit was lacking a tommy bar. These things are best noticed in the comfort of your shed rather than in the middle of nowhere.

Twins / Re: A7ST Tank leaks - weld or liner repair kit?
« on: 03 June, 2017, 10:24:17 »
Had precisely one year from a small fibre patch to my Velo tank. I assume your tractor is diesel? One fried decided to line his new Indian made tank for his Ariel recently. Bought what he thought was the best sealant. 2 weeks later there were lumps of sealant floating around in the petrol.

Twins / Re: A7ST Tank leaks - weld or liner repair kit?
« on: 02 June, 2017, 21:31:14 »
Check carefully which kit you choose. On other fora there are tales of freshly lined tanks failing, the lining coming off or turning to sludge. I had a leaky seam on my Velo tank which I repaired successfully with solder after the previous owner's attempt to line it failed.
Incidentally, I too have a leaky Star Twin tank - can't find the precise point it is leaking - but my bike is currently sporting a Gold Flash tank suitably painted. I like the 4 1/4 gallon capacity.

The Star and Garter / Re: MOT
« on: 26 May, 2017, 19:02:33 »
I do believe you no longer need the MoT for a pre 1960 machine. A few years ago I had to MoT my 1913 Douglas. The tester was bemused.

The Star and Garter / Re: MOT
« on: 26 May, 2017, 06:48:19 »
It's pre 1960, not 1962. There is an MoT exemption form available on the DVLA website which can accompany your initial registration.

Twins / Re: A65 6v - 12v Alternator
« on: 20 May, 2017, 14:56:23 »
With old alternators (bare and encapsulated) you need to be sure that the rotor and stator diameters match. For reasons best known to themselves, Lucas changed (reduced I think) the rotor diameter and stator inner diameter at some point in the 1970s.

Twins / Re: A65 6v - 12v Alternator
« on: 19 May, 2017, 07:02:53 »
Yes Ray, that should e it. Best of luck!

Twins / Re: A65 6v - 12v Alternator
« on: 18 May, 2017, 22:49:30 »
A good explanation but don't forget that here we are connecting a 2 wire alternator to a 3 wire harness. In this case, we can ignore the harness green/yellow wire which goes up to the light switch and connect the 2 remaining harness wires (green/black, white/green) to the alternator wires. It doesn't matter which alternator wires are connected to these 2 harness wires as each connects to a side of the rectifier (or preferably control box, as recommended).
An alternator on open circuit can give in excess of 26 volts hence the need for a control box or zener diode to control voltage output. The old 3 wire solution predates the availability of zener diodes or decent electronics and was adequate in much the same way a BSA 7" brake was considered adequate.     

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