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Messages - ANDY HIGHAM

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1
Singles / Re: C15 timing/gearbox cover puzzle
« on: 15 December, 2017, 14:56:33 »
I used to have a Cub with a blind grommet there, It was for access to the clutch cable

2
Singles / Re: B44/C15 tool box under seat.
« on: 12 December, 2017, 19:20:38 »
An insecure seat is an MOT failure as well as extremely dangerous

3
Singles / Re: B44/C15 tool box under seat.
« on: 10 December, 2017, 21:17:12 »
Will it still move carrying all that weight? I prefer to do my maintenence in the workshop. I carry an RAC card and mobile phone for emergencies

4
4" badges with BSA and a star background are available in Black, Green (A7SS) and Red (Gold star)
I have the black ones on my B31 with polished alloy tank, they look rather good
20170908_145312 by Sigma Projects, on Flickr

5
The red badge with the 3 rifles was fitted to all B31/33 with round badges. The Bantam badges with BSA and a star also fit

6
Singles / Re: new look B44
« on: 30 November, 2017, 19:45:40 »
I would only change one thing.
I would fit a throttle cable with a bend at the end so it runs parallel to the bars instead of dangling

7
Singles / Re: C15 No Spark
« on: 25 November, 2017, 11:57:00 »
Via the condensor

8
Singles / Re: C15 No Spark
« on: 25 November, 2017, 11:13:56 »
Andy
The ignition coil body needs to be earthed (connected to frame) to complete the HT circuit.

No it doesn't
http://gooddy.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/wiring-diagram-for-ignition-coil-readingrat-net-within-condenser.jpg

9
Singles / Re: C15 No Spark
« on: 24 November, 2017, 15:31:25 »
Hi, not running but I have managed to get a spark, I added an earth lead from the coil to the engine and also found some perished wires coming from the alternator which I wrapped insulation tape around as thought they may have been dragging it down, I'm planning to put a teaspoon of petrol down the barrel tonight to see if she will fire over.
Thanks for your help.

Ade

There should be no electrical connection between the coil and earth. The coil circuit from the battery - ignition switch - coil - contact breaker / condensor - earth

10
Singles / Re: C15T crankcase breather oil leak - but only some times!
« on: 18 November, 2017, 21:34:11 »
Hi.

I had a wet sumping problem on my A50. I put in any anti wet sumping valve. 35 ish and a fairly easy job.  No more wet sumping.

I was against the idea to start with, but when I mentioned it here, several guys gave me positive results so I went for it.

It easy to see that it is working by watching the return pipe in the tank.

Worth a thought???

The A50 and A65 have an anti wet sumping valve from the factory. It is the ball and spring behind the oil pump. The valves that fit between the tank and the engine could cause oil starvation, pumps do not like to suck

Mike

11
Singles / Re: C15 rear wheel dissassembly
« on: 11 November, 2017, 22:29:05 »
BSA didn't think about that. One way is to hold the brake on and use a deep socket and rattle gun

12
Singles / Re: Newby B40 help
« on: 06 November, 2017, 15:46:36 »
Before you start stripping it down, put it in gear, pull the clutch in and press the kick starter. It should turn the rear wheel, if not the problem is with the kickstart mechanism, if it does then the problem is the primary drive.
Remove the plug, put it in gear and turn the rear wheel, if the engine does not turn over the problem is the primary drive

13
Singles / Re: CORRECT GRADE OF OIL
« on: 28 October, 2017, 22:44:38 »
Sorry I cannot agree with you, thick treacle like oil is not a substitute for good surfaces and gaskets.
There is a common misconception that thicker oil has better lubricating properties. Bullshit, thinner oil reaches the bearings faster. Film strength and shear resistance are more important, additives such as zinc improve wear resistance on high pressure areas like cam followers.
I repeat THERE IS NO CORRELATION BETWEEN VISCISITY AND LUBRICATION PROPERTIES

14
Singles / Re: CORRECT GRADE OF OIL
« on: 28 October, 2017, 14:46:29 »
Castrol XL is still available. I have 20 litres in my shed. Have a look at Morris lubricants website. They have oils for every possible use. My rule of thumb is straight 40 for roller big ends, 20-50 for plain big ends. Many people use multigrade for everything with no problems. It's a big subject with many strong opinions. Essentially, if you use a reputable oil and change it regularly you won't have any problems.
Why? Straight 40 has no advantages over 20/50. In really cold weather it may not even flow through the oilways properly.
"R" type oil does have an advantage in roller bearing engines as the molecule chains are more resistance to the shear stresses imposed on the oil by rolling bearings.
I am a firm believer in the abilities of scientists and technicians to develop better oils than the oils of 50 years ago. I use fully synthetic 20/50 in my B31

15
Singles / Re: Exhaust sealing
« on: 22 October, 2017, 17:47:43 »
I use clear silicone

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