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Twins / Re: 1971-72 Thunderbolt Petrol Tank Identification.
« on: 09 October, 2017, 20:14:38 »
It sounds like a standard 1971 Home and Genex mkt Thunderbolt tank to me. Painted in a single metallic colour (Sterling Moss Green) and the BSA badge was the Gold outline transfer (No. 005) in the BSAOC transfer list. It went well with the Dove Grey cycle parts in my opinion. All the original tanks had the centre seam. I believe it was the later ones (1972 on) that had the mounting holes for the silver metal badges.
Re the colour, I opted for Rover British Racing Green metallic for mine when I had it repainted. It's a bit darker, not as sickly as the Sterling Moss green and makes it look a bit more classy in my humble opinion.
Hope this helps

Twins / Re: A65/A50 Petrol Taps
« on: 09 October, 2017, 13:45:21 »
Thanks Martin, I'm in the process of fixing the existing taps, I have tapped out the screw hole to M4 and made a screw to fit with a reduced end to fit in the slot.  With new corks I'm hoping all will be OK. If not, I will use the lever tap and elbow method as the new original style, made by Brassform now are 32 each.

Twins / A65/A50 Petrol Taps
« on: 01 October, 2017, 17:38:39 »
Hi folks,

Does anyone know if there is enough room to fit a lever type tap with a 90degree elbow on the end on the A65 UK spec (4 gall ) tank?

Alternatively, does anyone have an A65 reserve petrol tap (the one without the standpipe) going spare? Mine has a stripped thread in the little stop screw hole so a new body is needed.
As you know, these have to be of the in line horizontal pattern as there is no room for a standard downward pointing jobby!!

Twins / Re: A65 Camshaft
« on: 30 September, 2017, 16:11:59 »
You say some of these books have duff info. Do you use the parts books available in the members area? They have the ones for all years of the A65 and they are the genuine BSA ones.
I find one of the benefits of using these is you can compare the camshaft for instance on say a 1965 against a 1966model and glean when changes if any were made.
Caveat here, some of the post 1971 OIF parts lists can be a bit iffy as they changed parts mid season as the development continued until the abrupt stop in 1973!!

This is a fairly recent rule applied by the DVLA. It's all about the chassis (in our case frame) number and evidence that the Registration number was applied to a specific chassis number. Unfortunately for you the local council involved, like many of them, would have written the chassis no. on the original buff log book, but didn't bother to include it in their records when registering it.
They have tightened up on the procedures after it's rumoured, an un-named historic vehicle owners club was found to be bending the rules and spirit by certifying 'historic' examples of the marque against an original but the vehicles had been rebuilt with virtually all new parts including a new chassis. The few have spoiled it for the many.
I can understand the DVLA's viewpoint as no-one can actually prove which of the 4 numbers the dealer reserved was allocated to yours?
They don't sell old numbers, only ones that were never used which is where the stock of age related numbers comes from. I asked many years ago about buying the reg of my wife's first car and they said no, as the vehicle has been scrapped and therefore the reg is now defunct.
They're not being awkward or mean, they are just securing a system which avoids the possibility of fraudulent use of numbers.

Twins / Re: A65 Cylinder Head
« on: 25 September, 2017, 17:02:32 »
Back in the mists of time, I had to replace the manifold on my Triumph 5TA as a stud had pulled out. The carb on these is a 7/8" instrument and found a 1.1/16" manifold at my local breakers (it was 1971). I duly fitted it and the bike would not run properly at all. Moral is, the manifold should fit the carb size or near as damn it as, if it is significantly larger, the space beyond the carb upsets the mixture and the fuel condenses out before it gets to the cylinder creating a damp squib type of bang apparently.
The Royal Star is 26mm the Thunderbolt is 28mm. Whether this is a large enough difference to create the same experience as the 5TA you never know, until you try it.

I'm glad I looked at this post as it reminded me to get the blue V5C I have for the Thunderbolt renewed with a red one. Just phoned DVLA and bingo! they will send me a new one in a couple of days

The Star and Garter / Re: Refinishing/restoring wheels
« on: 20 September, 2017, 15:15:45 »
Paint them with Silver wheel paint and finish with the appropriate clear lacquer. Sold by most motor factors for doing car alloy wheels. Leave to harden off in a sunny spot (south facing bedroom window is ideal) for at least a week.

Twins / Re: Battery flat after riding with lights on
« on: 19 September, 2017, 18:41:01 »
Re Boyer Bransden ign, I've had one on my Thunderbolt for the past 11 yrs, and it was already fitted when I bought the bike so its really old. I've never had any problems with it and the beauty of them is, once fitted and set up, they don't need any adjustment or maintenance, in fact its a fit and forget job. Highly recommended by me!

The Star and Garter / Re: Lidl Tools
« on: 19 September, 2017, 16:15:50 »
Hi Chris,
How noisy is it? Is it likely to brass of the neighbours?

The Star and Garter / Re: South Derbyshire Bsaoc meeting
« on: 19 September, 2017, 16:07:33 »
I would take this as an event on 20th. Their usual meeting place is now the Shakespeare Inn, London Rd, Shardlow. To find out more email or call Mark Waller, his details are in the National Branches & Groups list on page 41.

Twins / Re: BSA A10 fuel taps
« on: 10 September, 2017, 15:36:02 »
Hi Adam,
As you are going to continue with the cork, I read a tip recently re this. Boil them in water before fitting and fit them as soon as they are cooled down. Apparently, it fills up any air pockets and they seal OK when done this way.

Twins / Re: BSA A10 fuel taps
« on: 08 September, 2017, 18:01:45 »
Does TT John have a Gas Safe Certificate????;D

Twins / Re: Battery flat after riding with lights on
« on: 03 September, 2017, 17:34:24 »
Based on what you said, the charging rate is fine with the lights on. Most likely the Battery

The Star and Garter / Re: BSA clutch cable
« on: 03 September, 2017, 17:30:21 »
Ive recently found two things contribute to this. First and most likely is as Julian says lubrication. I use a screw operated cable oiler with 20/50 engine oil and its amazing what a difference. Second is the clutch springs in the cups. I have a feeling they graunch and that causes resistance. Its the feel that makes me think this, sometimes its stiff so far then gets easier. Its worth giving them a light greasing if you are taking the clutch apart.
It can take time for the cable to free up. I found the cable on my A50 was mega stiff compared to my Thunderbolt, yet they are both 1970 models with the same 'three balls in pockets' lift mechanism. However, after a good 500 miles the A50 has improved significantly. Give it a try!!

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