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31
Twins / Re: stripping backing plate on conical rear hub
« on: 13 July, 2017, 16:04:06 »
Ive just done it on a spare one I have. Luckily, most of the anodising had disappeared into the saltmists of time but I found a rotary abrasive wheel did the trick. It is one of those brown in colour, about 1.1/2" dia by 1" long with a combination of scotchbrite and emery type cloth bonded on to the arbor. You see them on lots of tool stores at Autojumbles. Then, Scotchbrite, various grades of fine wet and dry and finally polishing mops should do the trick. Of course, when done and back in the bike, you will need to keep the polishing up regularly so kiss goodbye to your knuckles now while you still have them.
Hope this helps
Chris

32
Twins / Re: Aftermarket oil filter
« on: 07 July, 2017, 15:34:18 »
Return side every time! On the feed side it would be relying on atmospheric pressure to get it through the filter. That doesnt sound unreasonable until the breather at the top of the frame tube gets blocked!!!
I've had one on the OIF Thunderbolt for years and never had any problems with oil returning or pipes coming off.
Re the oil cooler. The OIF frame was originally designed to have oil in the full tube, i.e. to the steering head with the filler cap behind the steering head. This would have given a decent amount of oil for circulation and also, with the top part being under the petrol tank, the cooler fuel may have provided a bit of cooler air around it. However, the story goes that the powers that be at Slumberglade decided it looked ugly and came up with pathetic excuses like owners may put petrol in there by mistake and emulsification of oil would cause internal corrosion at a vital stress area, so the designers were told to move it to the top bend and therefore not only reducing the capacity drastically but leaving what little oil left to get a nice blast of hot air from the engine. The designer involved (cant remember his name) called them the Oiler Boiler frames from then on.
As such, some owners fitted an oil cooler but there is a debate as to whether these are really necessary. I would suggest, next time you do a long trip on a really hot day, check the oil temperature with a thermometer and then decide. I personally don't think its a good idea, unless you live in a hot climate, as on cool days or in winter, the oil won't reach a decent temperature and therefore keep the engine cooler than the ideal.
Just my opinions of course.
Chris

33
Twins / Re: STIFF FORK TRAVEL 1970 THUNDERBOLT
« on: 03 July, 2017, 16:25:19 »
Hi Rory,
The proper tool consists of a threaded plug that goes in the top of the fork stanchion which has some smaller dia allthread in the centre. This pokes up through the top yoke and a nut and large penny washer pulls the stanchion up against the spring until safely in the top yoke and the clamp bolt in the bottom yoke is tightened to keep it there.
Its easy to make if you have an old top nut and access to a lathe, by turning down the hexagon to slightly lesser dia than the thread and drilling and tapping a hole for the allthread in the top. If you want to make one from scratch, remember the top nut has a 28 TPI cycle thread.
Some people (me included) have got away with a large enough broom handle screwed in by hand and pulled through whilst the third hand tightens the clamp bolt, getting it close enough for the top nut to catch which will then finish the job. Depends how strong the springs are.
They are great bikes so worth getting your hands dirty! Best of luck with it!
Chris

34
Twins / Re: STIFF FORK TRAVEL 1970 THUNDERBOLT
« on: 02 July, 2017, 18:12:59 »
Hi Rory,
The 1970 forks were fitted with shuttle valves to provide 2 way damping. As you said you drained out an oil and water mix, its possible that the shuttle valves are gunged up with something nasty. This would cause the locking if the oil isn't squirting through in the right direct when needed. Sorry but the only way to be sure is to strip them down and give them a good clean. When done, 15w or 20w oil will be more than adequate. 5W is a bit thin in my opinion.
You'll need some readily available special tools, one to undo the fork seal holders and the other to draw the stanchions up to the top yoke on reassembly.
I would recommend you do this as its clearly a safety issue with the way they are at present.
Chris

35
Twins / Re: Mag servicing
« on: 29 June, 2017, 13:17:38 »
Try Tony Cooper (TC Motorcycles) of Halesowen, he comes highly recommended by lots of folk. His phone no is 0121 559 2405. He is a great guy, very friendly and helpful.
Tell him I pointed you in his direction
Chris

36
Hi Kez
Can I use the picture for the front cover of a future edition of The Star?
Chris

37
The Star and Garter / Re: Stupid question number 1579, Tax & MOT
« on: 01 June, 2017, 14:54:35 »
The cut off for zero licence fee (free tax) is a rolling 30 yrs so bikes built before 1st January 1977 are included. Remember it is the built date not the registered date.   

38
Singles / Re: 1968 Starfire, DVLA / Officer related question.
« on: 27 May, 2017, 15:15:17 »
Steve has been away on Hols but is back now. I know his backlog was 4 weeks before he went, so it may be longer now.
Chris

39
Singles / Re: Another question about C15 carb
« on: 27 May, 2017, 15:12:54 »
Worth a try, but it may be more trouble than its worth as the 3/32" 'step' between the bore of the carb and the inlet on the head may upset the mixture.  This happened to me donkeys years ago when I pulled a stud out of my Triumph 5TA manifold (7/8"bore) and my local breaker had an 1.1/16" manifold in stock. OK, the 'step' was the other way round but I just couldn't get it to run.
If you want to try a new concentric, then a 622 is what you need.
Chris

40
Twins / Re: Loss of Power
« on: 27 May, 2017, 14:54:41 »
Hugh, whereabouts on the throttle are you when this happens? If its up to half way and you open it up further and this persists it could be your main jets are too small. Try fitting a pair of next size up, or maybe get the size after that aswell while your at it and see if it makes a difference. They're cheap enough.
Caerphilly mountain is a good testing ground by the way, as is the Bwlch up from Nant-yMoel.
Let us know how you get on.
Chris

41
The Star and Garter / Re: machine dating
« on: 12 May, 2017, 16:02:51 »
You should have received it by now.

I have sent you an email regarding your dating certificate - Rob Jones.

42
The Star and Garter / Re: Cardurettor sealing
« on: 12 May, 2017, 16:00:36 »
Julian is spot on. I had a C15 and exactly the same thing happened, when I looked at the joint face on the cover, the distortion is obvious. I have had many Monoblocs over the years and had never come across that before. Hitchcock's do a replacement, if you're quick they might be able to despatch today.
Chris

43
Twins / Re: battery conditoner on pos earth
« on: 06 May, 2017, 18:28:10 »
Ctek chargers are really good and they keep the battery topped up nicely. Just use them as you would any charger. i.e + to + and -ve to -ve. If you get them the wrong way round, the charger will error and shut down so wont melt the battery.
Hope this helps
Chris

44
The Star and Garter / Re: BSA B31 1957
« on: 06 May, 2017, 18:16:10 »
I just checked the DVLA system and they dont show a record of that number for a BSA. Its therefore likely that if the bike is still in existence the original number may have been sold as a cherished plate or a subsequent owner lost the log books etc. As such it will have an age related number which makes it difficult to identify. The only hope is that the present owner knows the original number and he gets your request.
Chris

45
The Star and Garter / Re: No v5/c
« on: 30 April, 2017, 13:04:26 »
Chris, if the local authority do still have the records, you will need to ask if they include the frame no. as the DVLA need this part of the evidence and a picture and rubbing of the actual frame no. otherwise they will not give you the original number.
Chris

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