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1
They are Lucas part no. LU54525403 and you will need 4 of them. Lightning Spares supplied me with some when Brian and Chris were still running the show. All their stock was sold to Draganfly so good luck there. My recommendation would be to try all the spares dealers who advertise in The Star. Kidderminster Motorcycles 01562 66679 are particularly knowledgeable with OIF parts so would try them first.
Hope that helps
Chris

2
Twins / Re: A65L Crankshaft welded sludge trap access
« on: 07 November, 2017, 15:46:55 »
I agree that with a cartridge type oil filter the sludge trap will need cleaning out a lot less often. However, the type of deposits I've found in them when I've cleaned them out has been very fine, compacted matter. In my opinion, this will build up over a long period, how long is anyone's guess, and will need cleaning eventually.
However, I last cleaned my A65 sludge trap out about 10 years and 11,000 miles ago. It has had a cartridge type filter all this time and I don't intend to split the cases to clean it out again anytime soon. I will probably do it as it approaches 20,000 miles since the last time. I will note how much clag comes out and let everyone know, but that's likely to be in 3-4 years time so watch this space.
In the mean-time ask yourself how long you want to keep the bike and more importantly how many miles you expect to do on it in that period. After a clean out I wouldn't worry for 15-20,000 miles with a filter and that would be 7-10 years at 2000 miles a year!!
Hope this helps put it in perspective.
Chris

3
Twins / Re: A65L Crankshaft welded sludge trap access
« on: 03 November, 2017, 18:11:26 »
I would take it to a machine shop - probably a local engine reborer etc. and ask them to set it up on a vertical milling machine and using a 1" plus slot drill, remove as much of the welded area as poss, exposing the original bore to see if the sludge trap is still there or not. I would then get them to sleeve it with a 7/8" cycle thread internal thread sleeve and a larger thread on the o/d. Thoroughly swilled out afterwards it will be as good as new! Even at 80 /hr, it shouldnt take longer than a couple of hours so certainly cheaper than getting a replacement.
Chris

4
Twins / Re: How original for an age related plate?
« on: 27 October, 2017, 17:58:44 »
In any correspondence or verbal contact with DVLA always use the word 'refurbished' , not rebuilt or reconstructed, otherwise they may point you to a Q plate.
The key components re the age are Chassis (Frame), Engine, Wheels and Brakes and Forks. Provided yours are from that period, which it sounds like they are all original, then you wont have a problem, as the BSAOC dating certificate will reflect that its the original engine, or if not it will say how old the engine is. They go by the youngest components so re the other parts, if you fitted say 1983 Meriden/Harris Bonneville forks and disc brake then they would be looking at a 1983 age related plate.
If you want to fit younger parts, use the originals to get the plate and what you do afterwards is entirely up to you.
Hope this helps. (If any of this is incorrect, Julian will point this out).
Chris

5
Twins / Re: A65/A50 Petrol Taps
« on: 11 October, 2017, 17:31:34 »
Thanks Martin,
I will take a look at their website.
Chris

6
Twins / Re: 1971 Rebuild
« on: 11 October, 2017, 17:30:03 »
Hi Wind,
The standard sprockets for the A65 are 18T for sidecar work and 20T and 21T  for solo. The slots are designed so all these sizes will go through. However, SRM produce a 22T and used to do a 23T. Mine is a 22T which is great for keeping the revs lower at high speeds but previous owner has cut and filed extra slots, one being at the bottom so close to the plate mounting hole that said hole has disappeared leaving a great leak path for the chaincase oil. BODGE!!
My advice is, don't mess with these slots. If you have a 22T+ sprocket and need to remove it, pull the gear cluster out from the other side, a relatively simple task as the cluster comes out in one assembly whilst still attached to the round gearbox cover.
Chris

7
Twins / Re: 1971-72 Thunderbolt Petrol Tank Identification.
« on: 09 October, 2017, 20:14:38 »
It sounds like a standard 1971 Home and Genex mkt Thunderbolt tank to me. Painted in a single metallic colour (Sterling Moss Green) and the BSA badge was the Gold outline transfer (No. 005) in the BSAOC transfer list. It went well with the Dove Grey cycle parts in my opinion. All the original tanks had the centre seam. I believe it was the later ones (1972 on) that had the mounting holes for the silver metal badges.
Re the colour, I opted for Rover British Racing Green metallic for mine when I had it repainted. It's a bit darker, not as sickly as the Sterling Moss green and makes it look a bit more classy in my humble opinion.
Hope this helps
Chris

8
Twins / Re: A65/A50 Petrol Taps
« on: 09 October, 2017, 13:45:21 »
Thanks Martin, I'm in the process of fixing the existing taps, I have tapped out the screw hole to M4 and made a screw to fit with a reduced end to fit in the slot.  With new corks I'm hoping all will be OK. If not, I will use the lever tap and elbow method as the new original style, made by Brassform now are 32 each.
Chris

9
Twins / A65/A50 Petrol Taps
« on: 01 October, 2017, 17:38:39 »
Hi folks,

Does anyone know if there is enough room to fit a lever type tap with a 90degree elbow on the end on the A65 UK spec (4 gall ) tank?

Alternatively, does anyone have an A65 reserve petrol tap (the one without the standpipe) going spare? Mine has a stripped thread in the little stop screw hole so a new body is needed.
As you know, these have to be of the in line horizontal pattern as there is no room for a standard downward pointing jobby!!
Chris

10
Twins / Re: A65 Camshaft
« on: 30 September, 2017, 16:11:59 »
Mike,
You say some of these books have duff info. Do you use the parts books available in the members area? They have the ones for all years of the A65 and they are the genuine BSA ones.
I find one of the benefits of using these is you can compare the camshaft for instance on say a 1965 against a 1966model and glean when changes if any were made.
Caveat here, some of the post 1971 OIF parts lists can be a bit iffy as they changed parts mid season as the development continued until the abrupt stop in 1973!!

11
Malcolm,
This is a fairly recent rule applied by the DVLA. It's all about the chassis (in our case frame) number and evidence that the Registration number was applied to a specific chassis number. Unfortunately for you the local council involved, like many of them, would have written the chassis no. on the original buff log book, but didn't bother to include it in their records when registering it.
They have tightened up on the procedures after it's rumoured, an un-named historic vehicle owners club was found to be bending the rules and spirit by certifying 'historic' examples of the marque against an original reg.no but the vehicles had been rebuilt with virtually all new parts including a new chassis. The few have spoiled it for the many.
I can understand the DVLA's viewpoint as no-one can actually prove which of the 4 numbers the dealer reserved was allocated to yours?
They don't sell old numbers, only ones that were never used which is where the stock of age related numbers comes from. I asked many years ago about buying the reg of my wife's first car and they said no, as the vehicle has been scrapped and therefore the reg is now defunct.
They're not being awkward or mean, they are just securing a system which avoids the possibility of fraudulent use of numbers.

12
Twins / Re: A65 Cylinder Head
« on: 25 September, 2017, 17:02:32 »
Back in the mists of time, I had to replace the manifold on my Triumph 5TA as a stud had pulled out. The carb on these is a 7/8" instrument and found a 1.1/16" manifold at my local breakers (it was 1971). I duly fitted it and the bike would not run properly at all. Moral is, the manifold should fit the carb size or near as damn it as, if it is significantly larger, the space beyond the carb upsets the mixture and the fuel condenses out before it gets to the cylinder creating a damp squib type of bang apparently.
The Royal Star is 26mm the Thunderbolt is 28mm. Whether this is a large enough difference to create the same experience as the 5TA you never know, until you try it.
Chris

13
I'm glad I looked at this post as it reminded me to get the blue V5C I have for the Thunderbolt renewed with a red one. Just phoned DVLA and bingo! they will send me a new one in a couple of days
Chris

14
The Star and Garter / Re: Refinishing/restoring wheels
« on: 20 September, 2017, 15:15:45 »
Paint them with Silver wheel paint and finish with the appropriate clear lacquer. Sold by most motor factors for doing car alloy wheels. Leave to harden off in a sunny spot (south facing bedroom window is ideal) for at least a week.
Chris

15
Twins / Re: Battery flat after riding with lights on
« on: 19 September, 2017, 18:41:01 »
Re Boyer Bransden ign, I've had one on my Thunderbolt for the past 11 yrs, and it was already fitted when I bought the bike so its really old. I've never had any problems with it and the beauty of them is, once fitted and set up, they don't need any adjustment or maintenance, in fact its a fit and forget job. Highly recommended by me!
Chris

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