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Messages - MICKREEVES

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 9
31
Singles / new look B44
« on: 30 November, 2017, 08:32:46 »
I have changed the tiny tank for one twice the size, and lowered the rear mudguard.
I like the look, what do you think?
Mick

32
Singles / Re: B44, Bigend, Piston. Bad vibration.
« on: 28 November, 2017, 14:48:19 »
Engine reinstalled, new fuel tank, Now not charging, no winkers at the rear.
Not back on the road, but the engine runs and is no better for vibration than before
Mick

33
Singles / Re: C15 chainguard
« on: 26 November, 2017, 08:36:03 »
You could use this photo to get the measurements, but better - find good photo
on line, or on parts supplier.
Mick

34
Singles / Re: C15 chainguard
« on: 26 November, 2017, 08:33:47 »
I made my own from sheet aluminium.
First make a cardboard pattern.
Cut out the shape with tin snips. hacksaw blade.
Folding into shape needs some planks clamped each side.
The curly bit at the back was made with a separate strip of alloy, bent to a channel,
then using pliers on the side walls  to make  a crinkled effect, the curve could be formed.
The part was fitted with tiny self tappers every inch along.
finally sprayed black to hide my poor workanship!
Mick

35
The Star and Garter / Re: Fuel Tanks (again)
« on: 26 November, 2017, 07:39:53 »
I have refinished a battered glass tank.
I tested it with fuel in. No leaks yet, but if it starts to leak
I will try my epoxy clear two pack paint, which should do the job, for 10.
Mick

36
The Star and Garter / Re: improvement for bike lift
« on: 26 November, 2017, 07:35:37 »
Yes, you can put the bike on its centre stand, but
a)  B44 s dont have one.
b) Mine does.
c) I wanted to alter the stand!
Mick

37
The Star and Garter / improvement for bike lift
« on: 25 November, 2017, 16:11:52 »
 At my age, I can no longer bend or kneel down to work on the bike, so I bought a full length bike lift.
The lift has a small vice at the front, to clamp the wheel so the bike cannot roll backwards off the lift.
However, there is nothing to stop the bike tipping sideways.
You have to steady the bike with one hand, and fit straps each side to hold it. Not very convenient.
I made this addition to the lift, quickly and cheaply.
Two lengths of timber are fitted next to the front wheel. bolted together at the top, and secured to the base with hinges and bolts.
The width at the top is right to fit the top of the tyre, and so hold the bike upright. A small wooden wedge under the front wheel
 is a quick way to stop the bike rolling back.
Mick

38
Singles / Re: 1965 B40 Star battery & ignition
« on: 10 November, 2017, 15:10:32 »
My B44 has the Pazon. I am happy with it.
Mick

39
Singles / Re: polished B40 crank cases
« on: 10 November, 2017, 07:37:24 »
My guess is that the extra work of polishing the main case, and the possibility that some areas would be near impossible to polish,
would be against the idea, from the factories point of view.
Should be no problem if you do it yourself, but it will be hard work.
Mick

40
Singles / B44 head steady
« on: 10 November, 2017, 07:31:54 »
My B44 has steel bar head steady, going forward to the sheet supports on the steering head.
BUT, there is a downward facing bracket at the centre of the single top tube.
What is this for?
Mick

41
Singles / Re: B31 stand spring
« on: 29 October, 2017, 07:44:48 »
When I bought a stand spring for my B44, there was a choice of three patterns.
I chose one at random, but Im sure any of them would have been OK.
The main criterion for a spring is the amount of stretch on the bike, and therefor the
power to hold the stand in folded  position.
Mick

42
Singles / Re: B44, Bigend, Piston. Bad vibration.
« on: 27 October, 2017, 18:36:16 »
Still waiting for the crank back from Alpha.
Mick

43
Singles / Re: bsa clutch hub
« on: 20 October, 2017, 11:05:13 »
Thinking ahead to reassembly (Im waiting for my crankshaft return from Alpha), I thought it would be
impossible to assemble the clutch body, on the shaft, then fit the rollers with grease, then have to hammer the
Centre on to its splines without letting the rollers fall out.
So, I have the clutch bod on the bench fit the rollers and grease, then press the centre onto the splines.
The assembly can then be fitted in place with the chain and engine sprocket all together.

I was lucky! The centre slid on with hand pressure only (well , a thump with my fist.)
I had tried the fit beforehand, at each of the six positions. None were successful.
Mick

44
Singles / bsa clutch hub
« on: 20 October, 2017, 09:50:11 »
On many BSAs I have worked on, I have always found that the splined clutch centres,(see photo) and also the  engine sprockets will slide apart by hand, easily.
With my B44, they are both VERY tight.

The clutch took about 20 heavy hammer blows to get off.
The primary chain would not come off the engine sprocket, because of the closeness of the rear case casting.
The sprocket resisted all attempts to pull or hammer off.
I finally got the blowlamp on it, trying to avoid burning the chain. This was successful.

I have now polished the outside splines on the inner clutch centre, and used a dremel grinder to polish the splines
inside the outer part.
Now, the parts will slide together part way, then lock up.
It will take hammer blows to push fully in. I do not want to assemble like this.

How can this be???
Suggestions please.
Mick

45
Singles / Re: B44, Bigend, Piston. Bad vibration.
« on: 18 October, 2017, 10:16:35 »
I have shipped my crank to Alpha for replacement and balance.
Mick

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