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Messages - AWJDThumper

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 12
1
Twins / Re: 1971 OIF Thread.
« on: Today at 18:55:56 »
It's been 5/16 since at least 1969 when BSA changed to unified threads - Dragonfly are simply wrong! Also, both 5/16 BSW and 5/16 UNC are 18 tpi and therefore, to all intents and purposes, identical.

2
Singles / Re: Kickstart cotter pin
« on: Today at 18:47:42 »
You have to use the correct cotter pin wedge profile - I've come across a lot that are incorrect. You can then find the cotter pin is a very tight fit in the kickstart lever but doesn't fit the cut-out in the shaft - hence the lever can move. All you need to do is hit the end of the cotter pin hard enough and it will come out - but make sure you use the right sized punch and direct the force along the axis of the cotter pin.

3
Singles / Re: Kickstart cotter pin
« on: Today at 17:26:10 »
The only way to remove it is with a parallel punch - however, you need to use one with roughly the same dia as the cotter pin to avoid the punch simply expanding the pin. If there isn't enough room then it might be best to remove the downpipe. If you're right-handed like me then I would almost be tempted to lean of the seat to get the right angle to hit the end of the punch.

4
Twins / Re: 1971 OIF Thread.
« on: Today at 17:18:13 »
My 1971 parts book shows it as 21-1973 5/16" UNC!

5
Twins / Re: A65 rebuild
« on: 18 January, 2018, 19:54:57 »
There are a number of very good ways of removing rust. I normally use apple cider vinegar but 'Metal Rescue' looks to be equally good as well as a range of other products. The problem is, once de-rusted, it will start to rust again very quickly. In principle, keeping the tank full of petrol should help to stop this. However, I now tend to use POR15 sealant as a precaution since this will both seal the tank and prevent future rusting.


6
Twins / Re: A65 rebuild
« on: 18 January, 2018, 08:45:57 »
With tanks, it's sometimes a question of what to do first. The last tank I renovated for a few months ago, had both rust and sealant inside it. So, first job was to remove the old sealant. At that point, having flushed everything out with water, you can tell whether there is any major leak from the tank - if leaking, repair with soldering. Then de-rust. Hopefully, when everything is flushed out again with water no leaks will be found otherwise repair where possible with soldering. At that point, I would normally use sealant inside the tank which will also get rid of any pin hole leaks which the water test may not reveal. If you're not going to seal then test with petrol as this will reveal any pin hole leaks.

7
Twins / Re: A65 rebuild
« on: 17 January, 2018, 23:10:07 »
Hi, I'm afraid the chrome will need replacing as well so it's a complete renovation, I've been told the best thing to check for leaks is paraffin I've got a bit but think I probably need at least a gallon again any input greatly appreciated, cheers.
Has the tank got traces of sealant inside it? If so, you'll need to remove first which can be done with paint stripper if you're not bothered with damaging the paint work. It's best to de-rust the inside first before testing for leaks since this process could itself lead to leaks. Petrol is much better than paraffin for testing for minute leaks since it will weep out much more readily than paraffin.

8
Singles / Re: Grease
« on: 16 January, 2018, 17:33:05 »
Castrol LM grease was recommended by BSA, amongst other makes, for all bearings (wheel, swinging arm, steering head, etc) in that era - basically, a high temperature lithium based grease designed for wheel bearings.

9
Singles / Re: B40 Brake return spring
« on: 15 January, 2018, 19:55:57 »
The later B40 and C15 models had a concentric spring on the brake lever pivot. The earlier models had a slightly different spring arrangement using a linear spring attached to the lever, I beleive

10
Singles / Re: BSA engine from September 1974
« on: 15 January, 2018, 11:59:58 »
From what I can see, both of the round heads and barrels relate to the later Triumph derived TR5MX version of the B50. The standard BSA B50 parts (71-1219 & 71-1732) were all square finned. As said, your part numbers equate to the Triumph versions some of them were round finned. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the Triumph parts book to confirm which years had square and which had round fins.

11
Singles / Re: BSA engine from September 1974
« on: 15 January, 2018, 08:12:10 »
A round barrelled B50 is very interesting - will need to look into it. I see from the other forum that even MIDGIE didn't know the answer to the question other than suggesting it was a conversion. As said, why would anyone want to go from square barrel to a round barrel B50 ::)

12
Twins / Re: wassell power module on A65
« on: 14 January, 2018, 20:04:43 »
In general, you can't really test a rectifier/regulator unit - provided it is connected up correctly, it will either work or it won't. The red and black wire should definitely not have zero resistance between them!

13
The Star and Garter / Re: Painting Barrels black
« on: 14 January, 2018, 17:13:35 »
Bake temperature is 120 deg C for 30 minutes. More reliable to do it in the oven otherwise you could damage the paint more easily when re-assembling the engine.

14
Twins / Re: A65 rebuild
« on: 14 January, 2018, 17:10:20 »
With any tank, it's best to sort out the inside first if there is any significant rust present. Are the chrome side panels are in good enough condition? If so, a good professional painter will mask them up carefully before preparing the tank for painting.

15
Singles / Re: Newcomer
« on: 14 January, 2018, 17:05:22 »
Good choice and a bit more power than a 250cc C15. Is the bike taxed and MOT'd?

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