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Messages - Editor

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5
1
Twins / Re: Lucas 169SA Handlebar Light Switches 1971-2
« on: 08 December, 2017, 16:33:00 »
The factory put the indicator switch on the right and the dip switch on the left. If you prefer it the other way there's no reason not to.
They do look the same as they used the same castings. The indicator lever goes both up an down and has green/white and green/red wires among others attached. The Dip switch only goes one way and has the blue, blue/white and blue/red wires plus purple/black for the horn attached.
Hope this helps
Chris

2
The Star and Garter / Re: Awards weekend
« on: 07 December, 2017, 15:43:54 »
Hello John,
There's nothing in the December edition of The Star to my knowledge as the event took place on the week-end after the edition was being printed.
Should be something in the January edition though.
Chris

3
I think Don is not referring to Construction & Use Regulations but the actual construction and use of a shed for keeping bikes in??
Anyway Don, my advice would be not to lay it on a concrete slab without a wooden floor. My B25SS was beautifully restored by the previous owner and left in such a shed on concrete slabs for two years. When I bought it, the Chrome had suffered (cleaned up OK) but the chrome on the then brand new  -probably cheap italian- wheel rims had peeled off in places. Such a shame.
If you choose this method, you will need to keep them in a vac bag or coat them with ACF. 
Hope this helps
Chris

4
The Star and Garter / Re: More ebay fraud.
« on: 01 December, 2017, 17:04:53 »
I reported one which was up for 2200 yesterday and its gone now.
There is another one on there now, a peach with a buy it now price of 3000. No details, selling on behalf of a friend, for details contact is an email address in the sub-title. All very suspicious!
I cant be bothered to report this one as well.
Chris

5
Twins / Re: 1971 OIF Fork Oil.
« on: 29 November, 2017, 11:59:52 »
Yep 190cc. Its amazing, most BSA Motorcycle models forks seem to contain the same amount.

6
Twins / Re: A65 - 3 ball clutch operating mechanism
« on: 23 November, 2017, 11:31:20 »
There you have it. I use the standard Lucas switch assembly lever on the OIF Thunderbolt and that does click occasionally but is OK most of the time when I leave a reasonable amount of play on the lever adjuster. On the 1970 Royal Star, previous owner, Billy le Bodge put a longer length fulcrum to nipple lever on, probably to make the clutch operation lighter to save his carpal tunnels. Now that one does click alot more!

7
Twins / Re: A65 - 3 ball clutch operating mechanism
« on: 22 November, 2017, 18:41:21 »
The 3 ball device was only used from 1970 onwards. Is your other A65 and A50 from the same year i.e. the clutch cable enters the outer cover from the top? The earlier ones clutch cable enters from behind.
One of these days I will do a measurement myself to prove my theory, or find out I'm barking up the wrong tree  :-\
Chris

8
Twins / Re: A65 - 3 ball clutch operating mechanism
« on: 21 November, 2017, 20:01:30 »
There's probably a "they all do that sir" coming here!
When it 'clicks' does the clutch lever suddenly become alot less stiff? If so, I have had this problem from time to time and I put it down to the adjustment in the cable.
My theory is that the distance the bottom end of the cable has to travel is very close, if not slightly less than, the travel on the clutch handlebar lever pivot. I think what happens is if there is too little slack at the handlebar end, the travel exceeds the distance on the ball assembly and the balls actually come out of the cups onto the flat surface i.e tipped over the edge as it were. The reason the lever gets easier is there is no resistance of the climb out of the depressions. They always pop back in so no need to worry. Try adjusting the cable at both ends to get the optimum inner length and see if that makes a difference.
Hope this makes sense.
Chris

9
Hi Roger,
We have 3 requests very similar to yours to be placed in The Star. As such, with your permission I can add yours to the list and do all four in a bespoke feature in the January 2018 edition. Email me on editor@bsaownersclub.co.uk if you agree.
Regards
Chris Golby

10
They are Lucas part no. LU54525403 and you will need 4 of them. Lightning Spares supplied me with some when Brian and Chris were still running the show. All their stock was sold to Draganfly so good luck there. My recommendation would be to try all the spares dealers who advertise in The Star. Kidderminster Motorcycles 01562 66679 are particularly knowledgeable with OIF parts so would try them first.
Hope that helps
Chris

11
Twins / Re: A65L Crankshaft welded sludge trap access
« on: 07 November, 2017, 15:46:55 »
I agree that with a cartridge type oil filter the sludge trap will need cleaning out a lot less often. However, the type of deposits I've found in them when I've cleaned them out has been very fine, compacted matter. In my opinion, this will build up over a long period, how long is anyone's guess, and will need cleaning eventually.
However, I last cleaned my A65 sludge trap out about 10 years and 11,000 miles ago. It has had a cartridge type filter all this time and I don't intend to split the cases to clean it out again anytime soon. I will probably do it as it approaches 20,000 miles since the last time. I will note how much clag comes out and let everyone know, but that's likely to be in 3-4 years time so watch this space.
In the mean-time ask yourself how long you want to keep the bike and more importantly how many miles you expect to do on it in that period. After a clean out I wouldn't worry for 15-20,000 miles with a filter and that would be 7-10 years at 2000 miles a year!!
Hope this helps put it in perspective.
Chris

12
Twins / Re: A65L Crankshaft welded sludge trap access
« on: 03 November, 2017, 18:11:26 »
I would take it to a machine shop - probably a local engine reborer etc. and ask them to set it up on a vertical milling machine and using a 1" plus slot drill, remove as much of the welded area as poss, exposing the original bore to see if the sludge trap is still there or not. I would then get them to sleeve it with a 7/8" cycle thread internal thread sleeve and a larger thread on the o/d. Thoroughly swilled out afterwards it will be as good as new! Even at 80 /hr, it shouldnt take longer than a couple of hours so certainly cheaper than getting a replacement.
Chris

13
Twins / Re: How original for an age related plate?
« on: 27 October, 2017, 17:58:44 »
In any correspondence or verbal contact with DVLA always use the word 'refurbished' , not rebuilt or reconstructed, otherwise they may point you to a Q plate.
The key components re the age are Chassis (Frame), Engine, Wheels and Brakes and Forks. Provided yours are from that period, which it sounds like they are all original, then you wont have a problem, as the BSAOC dating certificate will reflect that its the original engine, or if not it will say how old the engine is. They go by the youngest components so re the other parts, if you fitted say 1983 Meriden/Harris Bonneville forks and disc brake then they would be looking at a 1983 age related plate.
If you want to fit younger parts, use the originals to get the plate and what you do afterwards is entirely up to you.
Hope this helps. (If any of this is incorrect, Julian will point this out).
Chris

14
Twins / Re: A65/A50 Petrol Taps
« on: 11 October, 2017, 17:31:34 »
Thanks Martin,
I will take a look at their website.
Chris

15
Twins / Re: 1971 Rebuild
« on: 11 October, 2017, 17:30:03 »
Hi Wind,
The standard sprockets for the A65 are 18T for sidecar work and 20T and 21T  for solo. The slots are designed so all these sizes will go through. However, SRM produce a 22T and used to do a 23T. Mine is a 22T which is great for keeping the revs lower at high speeds but previous owner has cut and filed extra slots, one being at the bottom so close to the plate mounting hole that said hole has disappeared leaving a great leak path for the chaincase oil. BODGE!!
My advice is, don't mess with these slots. If you have a 22T+ sprocket and need to remove it, pull the gear cluster out from the other side, a relatively simple task as the cluster comes out in one assembly whilst still attached to the round gearbox cover.
Chris

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