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Messages - Dabbist

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Singles / Re: Whats good about motorcycling?
« on: 16 February, 2018, 15:06:47 »
In an increasingly virtual world, motorcycling is still wholly physical.
It's sensual, it has cold, it has heat, you lean and you twist. It hurts when you get it wrong and it brings huge joy and sense of achievement when you get it right.

Off the bike I'm still handling steel and ally and spanners, the smells of oil and welding and turning. Actually making things fit, feeling the torque on a fastener.

Two wheels do indeed feed the soul, but they feed the body too.

Its real in a way that computerised office life never will be.

Singles / Tappet Adjusters
« on: 16 February, 2018, 14:51:16 »
Hi All,
        Just a quick check to see if I've missed something obvious.  I've just bought a pair of tappet adjusters for my B40 build.
The site described them as being for Triumph T120/T140 and BSA A7/A10/A65.
They're the same thread as the original B40 ones and the same length, but have a mushroom head, rather than a parallel one.
Trying to visualise the geometry in my head I can't see where that would make a difference. Does anybody know of a problem with them in B40s, or is the advertiser just short in his listing?
Many thanks

Singles / Re: B40 wheel bearings
« on: 11 February, 2018, 13:36:45 »
Thank you, that's as I suspected and reassuring.
The comment in the Haynes manual is puzzling though.
 I've already built a reasonable tool to fit, so I might weld a big nut to the top of it and have a go with an impact driver.
Half my problem stems from a brilliant lack of planning. Having already removed the hub from the wheel it's a devil of a job clamping it so that doesn't turn. A minor problem, all in all.

Singles / B40 wheel bearings
« on: 11 February, 2018, 10:51:19 »
Hi Folks,  I have a pretty stupid sounding question but, discretion being the better part of valour and all that, I thought I'd ask it anyway.
I'm struggling to shift the front wheel bearing retainer on my '62 B40. The Haynes manual says it's RH thread up to 1970 and RR doesn't specify it. Mine is clearly stamped "LH". Of course there's no guarantee that it's the original hub.
Can anyone confirm that it means left hand, before I start to apply a lot of force to it?
Incidentally, if anyone feels the need to laugh at my ever present incompetence my mate convinced me to document the whole rebuild at it could at least be a cure for insomnia☺
Many thanks

Singles / Re: B40 Star air filter - what's the best option now
« on: 09 November, 2017, 12:24:04 »
If you can't get a standard filter, some of the narrower pancake ones will usually fit, or you can get hold of a short length of steel or aluminium tube (you'll only need a few inches, dirt cheap on evilbay) which will fit into the end of the standard rubber tube link through the centre panel. You'll then be able to mount a small cone type filter on that, inside the "toolbox" so it will all look standard.

Singles / Re: 1965 B40 Star battery & ignition
« on: 08 November, 2017, 14:47:42 »
I believe Boyer-Bransden do a 6V kit but I haven't tried it. I do have a 12V Boyer kit on my Trials Cub and it's absolutely fine as long as you have a decent battery or a good alternator. 
My Cub had no battery and I discovered the hard way that if the voltage to the ignition is too low, the Boyer kit magically sets itself to full advance. It's not fun for starting, but they claim to have fixed it in their MkIV version.
Personally, I'm changing my B40 (just started the rebuild) to 12V, which is a pretty easy job. In fact Boyer do a combined regulator/rectifier and ignition kit for just that purpose.
Another alternative is the Electrex system, which costs bit more, but replaces the alternator and ignition system completely, thus doing away with the points etc.

Singles / polished B40 crank cases
« on: 08 November, 2017, 14:34:39 »
Hi again chaps.
                      Being a bit strange, I've always been slightly niggled by the sight of rough cast crank cases sandwiched between bright shiny primary drive and timing side covers.
Can anybody out there think of a good reason not to polish them?
I presume the rough cast will cool slightly better than a polished surface, but I can't imagine that being a problem at all.
There's a fair amount of material to remove, but the theory applied to con rods etc is that the result is stronger, due to the absence of stress nodes, and that the raised bits do nothing for rigidity.
My guess is that the only logical objection left is that the castings may have imperfections below the surface, but that seems unlikely.
Of course there's always keeping them shiny to consider, but finishes like Zoop seem to work well in other places and it should actually be easier to clean than the rough surface, as there's no key for muck to stick to.

Singles / B40 with B25 Cam
« on: 31 October, 2017, 15:23:22 »
My understanding is that fitting a B25 cam to a B40 will (with the flat cam followers) give the same result as an SS90 cam, which is what I want to achieve.
According to RR and others the case will need machining to accommodate the cam followers and/or the greater base circle of the cam, I'm unclear on which or both.
Can anybody enlighten me on the nature of the machining?
Is this just a non-critical clearance problem that can be eased with a die grinder, or is it a precision job?
Also, the Otter site shows a custom bush for the camshaft. Is that a part which can be bought? I'm not sure my large and ancient lathe will be accurate enough to produce one :-[

Singles / B40 Piston
« on: 30 October, 2017, 19:31:44 »
Hi Chaps,
              Having got my engine apart (well, the top end do far) and done a bit of measuring, it's clearly time for a rebore. I intend to fit a high compression piston anyway, but I'm having a lot of difficulty finding one.
There seem to be quite a few places selling the JP ones, but I keep reading horror stories about poor machining and frequent seizing.
Has anybody got any suggestions for finding something better?  I'm looking for an 8.75:1  +20, or +30.
In fact while I'm pestering, a source for an SS90 cam would be very welcome too.

Many thanks

Singles / Re: B40 Front Hub
« on: 01 September, 2017, 10:52:41 »
Thanks for the help Chaps,
                      As was ever the case (with me anyway) the design has shifted. I've acquired  a 7"  tls brake to go in the full width hub (notwithstanding potential clearance problems on the fork leg) so it looks like the question is now redundant.
I'd rather have the extra stopping power than a lighter wheel for road use.
Now I need to decide whether to fit new rims or have the old ones re-chromed  ???

Singles / Re: B40 Front Hub
« on: 30 August, 2017, 14:41:54 »
Thanks Julian,
                     I rather suspected that that would be the answer. So my next question is where to find a fork slider.  I've been hunting around the internet and Fleabay for a few days and haven't seen anything yet.
Any bright ideas?

Many thanks

Singles / B40 Front Hub
« on: 30 August, 2017, 13:21:59 »
Hi Folks,
             I'm new here and have what's probably a very novice question, though I did do a search first and couldn't find anything.
I've just acquired a 1962 B40, which I intend to rebuild as an Enduro. I'm not too fussed about counting rivets etc. as it's going to be a primarily road bike (with a bit of green laning), so a few minor anachronisms (e.g. 12v electrics and electronic ignition)are OK by me. Sorry if that offends the purists.

I've managed to find a single sided front hub but, from my perusal of Rupert Ratios tomes I gather that it normally utilises a screw in wheel spindle.
Does that mean that I have to find a suitable fork leg to accept it, or is it possible to fit a different spindle that will match my original (clamp on) legs?
Many thanks

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