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Messages - CROFTY1984

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Twins / Re: Headlight bulb lighting
« on: 20 February, 2018, 18:47:42 »
Hi Thumper. I have almost the identical 1971-72 diagram, it does not show the black switch that is on the top of the headlight shell. It would appear that mine was factory fitted ? Can't find it in the Lucas manuals either, a right puzzler ? Just looked on Dragonfly site, they list the switch in the headlight 19-1095 as a Kill Switch and in the price list they call it a lighting switch.
Looking at mine and comparing it with the 4 position switch I've heard of and the one on my Bonneville, I think that wiring diagram isn't 100% for my '71 and possibly your bike. With the 4 position switch you have bike on, bike off, bike on with lights (and parking) so there's no need for a black headlight rotary switch to turn the lights on and off as it's done by the key.
With mine there's a 2-position key switch for bike on and off and a separate black headlight switch for lights on and off. I'm assuming the bikes from 72 onwards is when the "all in one" key switch came in, as per the diagram.

Twins / Re: Headlight bulb lighting
« on: 20 February, 2018, 12:26:28 »
Great, thanks. I was thinking about those bikes where dipped is one of the two headlights and main is both. Thanks for the offer of the diagram, I'll have a look on the laptop when I'm home. I'll put mine up when it's through draft one.

Twins / Headlight bulb lighting
« on: 19 February, 2018, 21:32:03 »
Hello all, I'm working on a wiring diagram for my A65, I'll be converting to negative earth and a few other things. When it comes to the headlight filaments, do you know if it's:
Dipped beam OR Main beam
Dipped beam AND Main beam
I'm looking at the '72 wiring diagram someone put up on here, but that has the 4 position key switch and my '71 has the 2 position key and a separate lighting switch on the headlamp shell.

I'd be happy to put the diagram* up if anyone's interested. In fact, I'd appreciate the feedback before I go ahead.
* Diagram is a VERY generous term. I've been hacking about on power point.

Twins / Re: Ignition Switch 1972 A65L
« on: 18 February, 2018, 17:22:45 »
Ignition Switch:-  1972 A65L OIF..Just joined the forum , so appoligies, not sure quite how to post, anyway can anyone confirm that the ignition switch is supposed to have two positions, I only get the ignition light on on the first turn , nothing happens on the second . What is it for, just parking lights or is it the wrong switch. Cheers K
I'd like to know this too. Mine only has 2 positions. 1971 Lightning.

Twins / 71 A65L without standard airbox
« on: 17 February, 2018, 16:05:33 »
Hello all, my bike has never had the standard airbox, I was wondering what alternative intake options there were and folks opinions on them. I guess my main options are cone pod filters, velocity stacks or 60s style pancake filters?
Thanks, Dan

Twins / Re: Grab Rail
« on: 16 February, 2018, 12:31:33 »
Classic Bike Shop seem to have them in stock for £40 plus postage and package. I have used this company in the past without any problems. Hope this helps.

just bought a pair of exhausts from them. Good value and good service. Not the first time either.

Twins / Re: What spark plug caps? (And plugs)
« on: 07 February, 2018, 15:06:24 »
Thanks guys, ordered some caps and champions from green spark plugs. Thanks for the advice - really helpful and good prices!

Singles / Re: B25.Starfire - Tachometer Question
« on: 06 February, 2018, 13:06:24 »
Fitting instructions - Grin Triumph › WasselIgnition

If you Google the above it'll give you the PDF manual of the wassell system. I could have sworn blind it was a white wire, but that can't be right. I'll have a look tomorrow night if that's any good for you?

Twins / Re: Possibly silly carb ticking question
« on: 04 February, 2018, 21:11:10 »
Thanks for the confirmation - I assumed that would be the case, but having never looked at the back of the carb while doing it before, I didn't know if it was unusual :)

Twins / What spark plug caps? (And plugs)
« on: 04 February, 2018, 17:53:22 »
Hello all,
I rode to my local café today! Woo!
I had a terrible misfire at steady throttle, I'll be investigating the carbs of course.
However, the plug caps were also loose as hell, so I've decided to treat it to a pair of plug caps that aren't 47 years old. Should I be using a resistor or non resistor (suppressed/non-supressed?) type?
If it matters, I may be changing to electronic ignition in the next year or so.

Also, what plugs are people using? I'm using NGK 8ES.

When it was on song my God it flew! It also seems to be starting better now. When warm it was first kick - in front of an audience, no less!

Twins / Possibly silly carb ticking question
« on: 02 February, 2018, 16:48:07 »
I have a pair of Amal MK1 carbs on my lightning, at the moment with no airbox so I can see the back of the carb when I take the pod filters off.
When I tickle them, I get some petrol coming out of the drilling on what looks like part of the pilot circuit (and of course at the tickler, which is to be expected), is that normal? Should the carb really flood that much that I get a little splash out the back and into the filter boot?
I appreciate that maybe that's perfectly normal and you just don't normally see it as there's a filter/inlet tract attached. It would be good to know though.

Singles / Re: B25.Starfire - Tachometer Question
« on: 01 February, 2018, 16:20:04 »
Well it came very  quickly  and matches the after market speedo that's on my bike already.
I tried setting it up but with no luck so far. I found a set of instructions on the net which shows the contact signal wire connected to the positive side of the coil but this doesn't seem correct  because that side of the coil on my bike connects to ground (+ve) .
I also  tried  the -ve  side of the coil but that didn't work  either.
The bike has Boyer ignition but didn't think that should make any  difference.

The earlier reply mentioned wrapping it round the ht lead. Won't that  deliver too much voltage?

I have a Wassell electronic ignition and found the place to take the feed was the pulse output from the sender to the magic box (if that makes sense). If you connect direct to the HT output the bike won't run as the spark will shoot from the plug cap into your taco and blue it up. Trust me on this, I've done the research! But wrapping it round the outside of the HT lead like in a coil may work.

Which BSA do you ride? / Re: My 1969 BSA Starfire Scrambler Project
« on: 01 February, 2018, 16:13:46 »
I've got one of those! Great little bike. The Rupert Ratio manuals are a godsend, definitely buy those. Like, right now.
All bikes are different of course but on mine I find the best way to start it is tickle, no throttle whatsoever, edge it just past TDC and boot it.
I've also found a Wassell electronic ignition and new carb (Amal still build them in the UK) work wonders, plus a little electronic Speedo from eBay. Bear in mind is positive earth when doing any wiring.

Twins / Re: Fitting an electronic impulse Rev Counter to an A10
« on: 28 January, 2018, 17:40:14 »
Only tangentially related, but I put the signal write directly on the spark plug cap, which resulted in the HT voltage running not to the spark plug and straight into the rev counter and blowing it up. So don't do that.
I found the best place to take the feed off is the wire that went from my electronic ignition to the coils.

Twins / Re: Zener Diode
« on: 25 January, 2018, 17:06:43 »
To add to Julian's post, mine is mounted attached to the sorbic case by the oil "tank" on my '71 OIF, but usually they're where he said, it is on my '69 Starfire.

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