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Messages - bikerbob

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1
Twins / Re: 1971 A65L Kickstart return spring
« on: 24 September, 2017, 10:35:15 »
Bob,
It's normally a straight forward job and takes about 3 minutes.
Put the spring onto the casing with the hook around the screw. Get a piece of thin strong cord, the stuff used on blinds is ideal. Loop the cord around the other hook on the spring and pull upwards, this pulls the hook on the spring up out of the way. Get the retaining washer and slide it onto the kick start spindle and put the flats into place. Lower the spring hook onto the the retaining washer hook and pull the cord out or cut it.
I hope that makes sense. it's straight forward once you have done it a few times.
I live over in Shiremoor, North Tyneside, if you need a hand on anything just send me a memo.

The above is a reply that I got when I had the same problem on my 1963 A65 and it worked perfectly.

2
The Star and Garter / Re: MOT changes for historical vehicles
« on: 18 September, 2017, 15:18:15 »
If you look at the DVLA website regarding radically altered vehicles and reconstructed vehicles then if they use those definitions then bikes such as Tritons should be okay. Radically altered vehicles have to achieve 8 points and while the website quotes things for cars if you change those for motorcycles ie the chassis becomes the frame if you have the original frame you would get 5 points 2 points for the original suspension 2 points for the steering same with transmission you only get 1 point for the original engine so it should okay to get 8 points for a Triton. If they class a Triton as a reconstructed vehicle the main thing seems to be that the major components should be over 25 years old. So if they apply those rules Tritons and the others should okay but who knows how the DVLA will  operate time will tell.

3
The Star and Garter / Re: BSA clutch cable
« on: 04 September, 2017, 13:30:47 »
I remember some time ago fitting a new clutch cable to my A65 and at first it was very stiff tried lubricating and checked the routing but was still stiff was solved by lubricating the nipple in the lever never really thought that could be the problem but ever since I occaisionally put a drop of oil on both lever nipples.

4
Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 26 August, 2017, 15:01:32 »
As regards push rod length I believe the six spring clutch is 11.5" and the 4 spring is 12". If you have rod that is too short you could cut it in half and put a 1/4" ball bearing in the middle but you would have to harden the ends, some people do this mod anyway saying it improves the clutch operation, I did it on an A10 some twenty years ago but never noticed any difference in the clutch operationbut it was still working OK when I sold it 4 years ago.

5
Twins / Re: Another tank question.
« on: 13 August, 2017, 09:32:17 »
You could have a look at the products supplied by Tank Care Products I have used them and find them to be excellent. I think the website address is www.tankcareproducts.co.uk

6
Twins / Exhaust pipes
« on: 12 July, 2017, 13:09:30 »
Is there an optimum distance for how far the exhaust pipes go into the silencers on a 1956 swinging arm A7 mine go in approx 4 inches which seems quite a bit or does it not make any difference to performance.

7
Twins / Re: Small end problem
« on: 06 July, 2017, 15:39:39 »
Thanks for that info I have checked the con rod and it is still round and no bad scoring just a few minor scratches no sign of any heat problems, have ordered a new standard bush did not realise you could get oversize ones and will see if it is a tight enough fit if not I have a small lathe and will turn a bush to suit, I am by no means an expert on lathe turning but will have a go and if it does not work out I will order an oversize bush. Looking at the bush that turned it would appear that sometime in the past a previous owner has fitted a bush that was maybe a little to small and has tried to compensate by putting a series of pop marks all over  the bush to make it a tighter fit, I have had the bike for about 3 years now so it did work for a while. I have been down to a local metal stockist and bought a small piece of phosphor bronze the correct grade, If anyone out there needs to buy any type of metal be it sheet or round bar or sectional bar then I can recommend going to a company called the Metal Supermarket they have branches around the country, they will cut to order and are very helpful and not expensive, acouple of years ago I made my own motorcycle lift  and they cut all the parts to the sizes I required and did not charge for the cutting I just paid for the cost of the material.

8
Twins / Re: Small end problem
« on: 05 July, 2017, 20:19:26 »
Thanks for that Julian have looked at their website did not realise there were so many different products will wait till new bush comes then will see if  some type of loctite is required. The con rod does not look to be damaged the hole is still round and not scored don't know why the bush has turned no heat damage.

9
Twins / Small end problem
« on: 05 July, 2017, 11:27:15 »
I have a1956 swinging arm A7 for a few weeks now I have had noise coming from the engine at certain revs about 25 mph in second gear 35 in third gear and 45 in fourth gear. So decided to take head and barrels off, on first inspection could find nothing wrong but when I removed the pistons one of the small end bushes has turned in the con rod blocking off most of the lubrication hole. This has resulted in the internal diameter of the bush being 5-6 thou bigger than the gudgeon pin. I have ordered a new bush but suspect that it will not be a tight enough fit in the con rod the original worn bush still had to be removed using a home made extracter but it came out too easily. How do I make it a bit tighter would bearing loctite be the answer or I could do what we used to do years ago when I worked in enginering and we had this problem we would tin the outside of the bearing then press it in this was the solution before loctite. Or does anyone have another remedy. Thanks.

10
The Star and Garter / Re: MOT
« on: 26 May, 2017, 15:29:50 »
I do believe that if you are applying for a new or retension of registration that you need an MOT this is to prove that the bike is roadworthy. I had to have one for my A65 when reclaiming the original registration but this was about 6 years ago and things may have changed since then.

11
Twins / Re: A7 clutch pressure plate
« on: 04 May, 2017, 19:30:28 »
Type the following number into ebay and I think this is what you are looking for you could contact the seller and make him an offer to take it off the auction. 201915096291

12
Twins / Re: A7 clutch pressure plate
« on: 03 May, 2017, 19:19:51 »
You do not say wether the A7 is plunger or swinging arm. According to my parts book the swinging arm plate is called "clutch actuating cap"and is part number 42-3056. If it is a plunger model  then it is called "clutch spring plate" and is part number 67-3245. both are six spring clutches and with different part numbers I would suspect that they are not interchangeable.

13
The Star and Garter / Re: DVLA registration
« on: 02 May, 2017, 16:10:49 »
I have been told that a chaingaurd is required for the MOT but have seen plenty of bikes without them if you are not sure give the MOT testing station that you are going to use a ring.

14
The Star and Garter / Re: DVLA registration
« on: 02 May, 2017, 12:49:23 »
It is about 6 years since I had a bike inspected by the DVLA at that time the inspection only took about 10 minutes they are basically just confirming that all the info that you have provided is correct and the bike is what it is supposed to be, they will check that the frame and engine numbers are as stated on your application and if you provided photos of the bike that they match  the bike being inspected. At the time I was reclaiming the original registration and had submitted all the relevant documentation ie photos of both sides of the bike BSA dating certificate, MOT certificate and the completed relevant form I believe it was form V/55. they had also recieved info from the BSA dating officer. Because the MOT had been issued on the frame number  when they sent me the Tax disc which is now not required they also sent me a new MOT with the reclaimed registration.

15
Twins / Re: Aftermarket oil filter
« on: 18 April, 2017, 14:33:13 »
I have inline filters fitted to both my A7 swinging arm model and my 1963 A65 both are connected to the return side with no problems. I sold my last 1957 A10 about 3-4 years ago and it had an inline filter fitted for the 16 years that I had it and I met the person who I sold it to last year and it is still running Ok. I always belived that they should be fitted to the return side of the pump.

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