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Messages - AWJDThumper

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Singles / Re: Pre-unit gearbox sprocket nut
« on: Today at 09:37:52 »
I don't know whether it is relevant but I noticed that the SRM replacement nut is not supposed to be suitable for non swinging arm models for some reason.

Twins / Re: Plunger A10 nacelle instruments
« on: Today at 09:17:40 »
To get the best results you normally need to use a high build primer at step (5) and then flat it back to give a perfect finish for the basecoat. A 2K clear coat is certainly the toughest finish you can achieve with the added bonus of being petrol resistant.

Twins / Re: Pre-unit gearbox sprocket nut
« on: Today at 09:12:01 »
I believe the nut is 1 3/16" x 24 TPI; essentially, a BSC thread.

Singles / Re: Pre-unit gearbox sprocket nut
« on: Today at 09:10:10 »
I believe the nut is 1 3/16" x 24 TPI; essentially, a BSC thread.

Twins / Re: Paint type
« on: 23 March, 2018, 07:03:42 »
In principle, a couple of 500mL aerosol cans should be enough for two basecoat layers but it depends on how thick you apply them. You'll need at least the same for the clear coat but it's best to apply 3-5 layers for best results. The aerosols you get from RS Paints produce very good spray patterns and are much better than the aerosols you get from, say, Halfords. However, with any spray painting, the quality of the finish will mostly depend on how well you prepare the surface before applying the basecoat.

Twins / Re: Paint type
« on: 22 March, 2018, 19:21:13 »
Are you really going to paint the whole bike black or just the frame?

My normal approach nowadays is to get the frame powder coated and to use a basecoat in combination with a 2K clear coat for the tinware, with the basecoat normally coming from RS Paints (unless it's an ex-army bike). A 2K clear coat will produce a very hard finish that has the advantage of being petrol resistant. Problem is that 2K paint is highly poisonous and so can only be applied when using the correct protective gear. As an alternative, you can use a non 2K clear coat which will not be as tough and you will need to use a petrol resistant version for the tank.

Twins / Re: Plunger A10 nacelle instruments
« on: 21 March, 2018, 17:53:43 »
Well done. How are you going to do your tin ware?

Twins / Re: No Hooter.
« on: 20 March, 2018, 16:58:35 »
If you send it to me, I'll happily have a go at fixing and servicing it for you. Presuming its a Lucas horn as shown below? just PM me if you want me to look at it.

Singles / Re: Bsa b31 Valve and Guide
« on: 20 March, 2018, 10:21:16 »
As said, I'm not that familiar with the B31 engine but from what I can see the rocker box drain is via an external pipe rather via the push rod tunnel? If that is correct, I would definitely check that pathway.

In terms of the oil flow rate into the head, I would have thought that provided that the flow rate back into the oil tank appears to be good then the former should also be ok from a max flow rate point of view. To check the drain, I would be tempted to fill the exhaust valve pocket with engine oil and check it drains away in a reasonable manner.

Singles / Re: Fuse ratings
« on: 19 March, 2018, 23:14:28 »
Fuses are rated in two different ways: either continuous rated or blow rated. The old style glass fuses tend to be blow rated whereas modern fuses tend to be continuous rated. For many classic bikes a 17.5A continuous rated fuse will provide adequate margin relative to the maximum current provided by the battery and this equates to a blow rating of 35A which is the figure normally quoted.

Twins / Re: Plunger A10 nacelle instruments
« on: 19 March, 2018, 18:39:58 »
Not an expert with this model but a lot, if not all ammeters, have tabs built into the bottom of the bezel which are bent outwards to hold it in the nacelle. You have to be careful bending them back to extract the ammeter as they sometimes break off. Does the switch itself not have a screw through the top to allow the knob to be removed revealing the fixing nut underneath?

Singles / Re: Bsa b31 Valve and Guide
« on: 19 March, 2018, 17:00:01 »
Are you sure the oil is leaking between the valve stem and the guide, rather than between the guide and the head. Either way, there shouldn't be that much oil present to leak past the valve unless something strange is happening with the oil supply to the head or to its drain path. On unit singles which I'm more familiar with, if the return to the oil tank is blocked or partially blocked then, in principle, you could get an enormous flow of oil into the rocker box which might well result in oil being forced past the valves.

Twins / Re: A65 OIF Front footrests.
« on: 19 March, 2018, 16:47:03 »
Just noticed that, although not shown on the appropriate drawing for the 1971 A65, the collars 83-3602 are still listed for it. Would seem to imply that the collars were added under the front footrest securing nuts as a bit of an after thought but retained for the 1972 model. Must have been a reason for them, presumably to provide clearance for the nuts??

Singles / Re: Electrical things
« on: 19 March, 2018, 13:57:03 »
As said before - your headlight wiring looks very neat which is always good. It's best to take of the connections and clean everything up with fine emery paper if necessary.

In terms of your original problem, the battery's 6V goes to the lighting switch via T2 but goes to the ignition switch from the ammeter via another brown and white wire to ignition switch T12A. So if the main problem was the 3-wire ammeter connection, that would have robbed battery power input tom both switches - hence, no lights and no ignition :)

Singles / Re: Bsa b31 Valve and Guide
« on: 19 March, 2018, 13:48:59 »
Andreas.  When you say you have an oil leak through the exhaust valve, could you explain what you mean and how it manifests itself? For example, can see oil leaking down past the valve guide with the downpipe removed, or do you mean that the exhaust is blowing blue smoke which you assume is due to oil leaking past the valve guide?

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