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Messages - EDDIE SIMPSON

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1
Hi Malcolm,
I don't think the dvla will sell you your own reg number as they know it was previously issued.
They will direct you to their auctions where you bid against car dealers and rich directors for similar plates.
We are the obvious losers in this government business. Would Corbin improve the situation or hurry to get us all off the road?

2
thanks for support against the dvla. bike is on national computer even now. at least i have the possibility of retaining the original number as luckily i bought a complete bike. i m assembling it now without any restoration which is not what i wanted and am aiming for the spring for it to be ready. it was annoying that i did everything dvla asked, then central casework moved the goalposts. so there is a politburo within the dvla innards. regards politicians ; bedsits, pedal power and driving around in milkcarts are the coming mans, new horizon . we are almost there in london except for the lorries, buses and aircraft.

3
hi mike,
yes with hindsight i could of played the system better. obviously honesty is the worst policy with the dvla.

4
The Star and Garter / "resist the dvla, and i thought it was the u.k. ?"
« on: 21 September, 2017, 22:29:15 »
just been rolled by the dvla over a nice registration number on a a10 plunger. registration is on their website so i thought an older type blue v5 would suffice. sent of bottom slip. vender [66 year old who owned it for 30 years] sent top part all signed etc. the application went to central casework group who asked for proof. frame number, number plate and most bits of bike .photos sent. now they cant issue a v5 as parts do not constitute a roadworthy vehicle. when restored apply again and advise on the next process.
so dvla cant issue a v5 to a car without an mot? not roadworthy.
choose one of the following options?
get a car? buy your number plate? or pay your money and do as your told?

5
Twins / Re: Battery flat after riding with lights on
« on: 03 September, 2017, 22:29:49 »
hi, i would suggest there is a large power drain with the lights on at idle. it could be the battery, but could also be a poor lighting switch or a large watt halogen headlamp bulb ? maybe remove the headlamp bulb and recheck the voltage on idle with the lights on. a very common fault is a live wire touching the handlebars in the light switches. remove the switches and remeasure.
another way of checking for a short is by removing the battery connections and  bellout with the multimeter between live and earth, lights on and off. should be no buzzer on either.

6
Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 31 August, 2017, 22:49:51 »
hi roger, like you i had been having problems with the 6 spring especially in london traffic. i did this conversion as an experiment, hence no photos , and 1 year later i ve yet to go inside the primary chaincase. never adjusted the springs since.

7
Twins / Re: Different colouring of exhaust on a twin
« on: 31 August, 2017, 22:26:49 »
from what ive been reading on the internet recently about k2f magneto care i would also suggest the slow death of the secondary windings and/or condensor. but if the bike runs well and is working. why fix it?

8
Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 31 August, 2017, 22:19:43 »
ah i forgot one thing roger , the hollow tube where the pushrod fits into will probably need sizing and triming for the gap between the mainshaft and the clutch end cover [1/4" clearance?]. use maximum number of plates and the hole you drill in the clutch end plate needs to be central for obvious reasons.

9
Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 31 August, 2017, 22:07:13 »
hi roger,
yes youve got the idea. the shaft is hollow and the pushrod fits? the nut and bolt on the end makes it a little long and may hit the clutch cover. i would remove the ball and drill the end plate so the middle section passes snuggly through the clutch end plate. find a right size thick washer and to hold the washer in place, drill a hole in the step for a 1/4 " split pin[ touch the surface with a grinder and the drill will start easier], then cut off the excess with a saw or on the grinder if its too hard. i think i used an angle grinder on mine. so the mushroom stays with the clutch end cover. you have a adjuster for the clutch pushrod on the gearbox end and you need to size the pushrod when its fitted in the mushroom with the clutch plates and springs fitted. i cut my pushrod in half and used a 1/4 ball bearing in between.
i ve made it sound a lot of work but its not if you have a bench or angle grinder and a drill which i m sure you have.

10
Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 30 August, 2017, 16:44:59 »
hi roger, to understand the principle and what to drill etc you will have to look at a parts diagram of a s*****i gs750 [it uses a clutch pushrod also]. you could start with the hollow mushroom part that lifts the plate. you dont need the flat needle washer, but if you could squeeze it in, well done. i ve seen the same  fittings  on aftermarket triumph lift plates, 3 and 4 spring.

11
Twins / Re: Battery flat after riding with lights on
« on: 30 August, 2017, 16:34:41 »
figures given  shows its charging [ possibly a little high] but the original fault was lights on=flat battery. it could have been the old battery causing the problem. the way forward is simple. ride with your lights on during the day and see if the faults gone.

12
Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 29 August, 2017, 22:50:00 »
the problem with the standard 6 spring clutch is the centre captive ball in the end plate doesnt work with the pushrod. i fitted a  jap bike clutch mushroom  to the end of the pushrod [ground down slightly]. the other end was stepped if i remember correctly and so i drilled out the centre of the lift plate to locate it and the centre i believe was drilled to be held in place with a washer and split pin. i m sorry i didnt take any photos but it was fit and forget and not to difficult to make.

13
Twins / Re: Battery flat after riding with lights on
« on: 29 August, 2017, 22:31:03 »
hello drummie,
the quick way i would check your system is with a multimeter on 20volts range dc across the 12.5 volt battery.
14 volts on tickover means its charging. 16 volts overcharging.
12 .5 volts and above at tickover with lights on fairly normal with an old alternator.
play around with lights on / off and if the volts show discharge means short circuit. wire touching frame?
as julian says , zeners can short circuit . cause poor charge or overcharge and boil batterys

14
Twins / Re: A65 Pistons
« on: 19 August, 2017, 09:13:41 »
Well mike, I m no bsa expert. But I did own a spitfire but wouldn't t again . The a10 or a7is superior as a road bike in my opinion and I do moremilage than rebuilds on my a10. The piston party numbers are a.ll listed in the parts book I remember and you can easily spot the difference between 9/1 and 10/1 are they have different crowns. The a50 and a65 was a very good looking bike but the engine did contribute to the demise of the bike arm of bsa in my opinion.

15
Twins / Re: Rich running Super Rocket
« on: 17 August, 2017, 22:25:30 »
my iron head a10 would not run with an aircleaner or standard settings. it must be the fuel as ive tried maggie and electronic ign. i now run a mesh bellmouth ,20 pilot and needle in lowest position on a monobloc. i also solder- filled the needle to float wear and the float height is correct. it starts first kick without any choke, which is wrong , but also runs quite hot and ticks over very well. good luck.

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